680RWHP12A

the 13b turbo from any turbo 2 car is way easier to fit into a first gen and has more parts you will be able to use for your swap, like the turbo for starters..
the 13b tt motors require more fabrication to install and you hace to junk the twin turbos since they wont fit your car, so you have to spend more money for a turbo and manifold...

680RWHP12A

as long as you dont speedshift, or beat on your drivetrain it should hold up..
if your planning on rough, abuse type driving, turbo 2 tranny and a mustang rear are what you need to get..$$$$$$$$$$$

666mike666

alright cool thanks

snub disphenoid

I don't plan on abusing the car, just simply putting drag radials on and doing proper burnouts, which I don't think the rear end will like, even if it is fairly fresh. I assume I'll need to get a custom driveshaft made to mate the TII transmission to the ford rear end?

680RWHP12A

ohhh, what you have planned will cause breakage... yes you will need a custom driveshaft to mate the t2 tranny to the mustang rear end...
just get it running, go easy on it, then when you get bored start beating in it... upgrade from there

666mike666

There is smoke coming from my engine bay and i think its from the oil cooler what could be wrong and how do i fix

ApG Spaz

hey, im looking at a cartech turbo setup from a forum member, comes with "everything needed" its got the holley 600cfm, is this overkill for a stockport? and i just put in a carter gerotor, was wondering if this would be strong enough to feed the carb, or if i need something else.. (and if i should go to a smaller carb size, will the gerotor supply that well? hehe) was planning to lock the dizzy too.

im guesstimating 180-200 with 20mpg, idk how far off the mark i am with a stock port engine, any extra info on the cartech setup would be apreciated

680RWHP12A

any of the cartech systems are proven to work good, so its not a bad deal... bolt it on and go have fun...
a 600 cfm holley is no too big, as guys often use 750 and 850 cfm carbs on rotarys..
a 600 should work great on a stock port or streetport 12a..

as far as 20 mpg... not hapening unless you never see boost wich is unlikely

200 hp is easily achievable with this setup..

680RWHP12A

smoke from the engine bay, not good..
steam clean the engine bay, and locate exactly where your oil leaks are comming from, then fix them!!

TimsR1

I own an FD and was wondering if the HKS exhaust manifold is the same for the FC and FD RX7's. Possibly would like pics of both to examine the difference if any. Thanks in advance if you can help me out. I do realize it's the same 'canister' for a motor but there are other variables involved correct?


Tim

680RWHP12A

the manifolds are very different.. fc can not be used on a fd, wastegate hits the crossmember...

if you own a fd, get a manifold for a fd...

rrluthi

how likely am i to pass smog with my gsl-se streetport swap in my 1980 SA. I have all the emissions equipment swapped over as well... engine is fresh, etc.

Streetport is the only modification to the engine.

Oh, btw got the flushmounts you sent installed, they look niiice on my white SA.. car looks very menacing from the front.

666mike666

do the motors you sell come with all the harness and the ecu?

680RWHP12A

as long as the smog eqipment is there, your car should pass smog, even if its streetported.. glad you like the headlights!

680RWHP12A

no.. ecu and harness is not included with motor purchase
those can be purchased sepratly if they are available

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Hey Cheese man, putting that ring and pinion in, got the ring mounted no problem but the pinion is holding me up, not sure how to remove the front bearing, the front seal is removed. So, do I just use a brass mallet and a piece of wood then go feral on its *** or is there a more sophisticated method available.

Thought I'd ask before I break something...hehe

680RWHP12A

usally a bearing press works. but give the wood a try.. worst case ,,, you have to buy a new bearing,,,,

TrevorC

how do you go about checking the solenoids / check valves to see if they are working properly without taking off the UIM?? I've heard of a method like grounding some pins or something? thanks for any help you can provide me with....

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Took your advice they charged me a princely $5 to remove and replace, and I didn't have to beat up anything.

Can you tell me the weight of a 12a with accessories and of a 13bt with all accessories? Referring to our last telephone conversation.

Thanks

Steve

680RWHP12A

good deal.. let me know how she runs when you get those gears in

680RWHP12A

ground the solinoids and check solinoid operation with a vacuem guage

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

They're going in with a complete SE rear end after I get the tubs and rear shock mounts built. Getting really anxious, can't freakin wait, need a cheese hit, got any Stilton?

majorminor

i am new to the world of rotor-motors. i have a 87 rx7 engine and trans that i am installing in a project car that i will describe at a later date. after reviewing the situation i plan to go carburetor rather than fuel inj. i have acquired a racing beat two-piece intake and am searching for a side draft weber. the engine is internally stock.
what do i need to know while shopping for a carb?
thanks in advance

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

When useing your weber carb hat should I run the cork gaskets I have between the carb and hat? Also should I run a small rubber washer between the bolt and the hat?

680RWHP12A

cant use cork gaskets with bosted applications... the carb hat bolts can be used as they are, some people use washers, or washer/oring combo, its up to you really..