I heard there were also issues associated with that stock nylon clutch line, a steel braided replacement should fix that issue. I have that hurst short throw and ill have to use a custom line so I wont have those issues 😁

I'm worried about my wiring as well, ill call up joe and find out how he went about his setup whether he just tucked it all or trimmed down the stock setup and what pcms he has. Dude is putting down 550hp @ the wheels on a stock block lol

 

Considering that with our swaps the stock clutch line isn't even possible to use I doubt that will be an issue...generally in swaps when using a hydraulic clutch I will use custom bent brake line, then swap to braided stainless for the section that needs to flex and connect to the slave...not sure I have ever seen anyone swap and attempt to use a nylon line. You actually only need about a foot of braided line for the flex(guess its actually technically braided SS covering a nylon inner anyway) but its generally less of a hassle to get about 3 feet so you dont have to run 2 sections of hard line(and if you get 5-6 foot you dont even have to use a hard line at all)

 

do you have contact info Building a ford maverick with the 3.7 and want to use the stock ecu and wiring

 

Ford a maverick with a 3. 7. That'll be an awesome build!
​​​I'll be redoing my harness and I'll do a write up soon.
Cheers

Joe

 

Cool looking forward to it

 

ditto

 

Fixing a lil damage when I hit a lane divider pole in the road.


Lost a side skirt too

 

Teaser of the new tires and wing. The brand new laid drag strip is opening soon. Hoping I can get a few test hits before paint and the rear diff let's go.

 

New tails for after paint.

 

Gotta make new side skirts. Learning to work with carbon fiber on this. Plan on making more parts with this knowledge. Hood for sure.

 

so what you're saying is you'll be able to make me a combination front diffuser/skid plate? 😁

 

hurst short throw shifter supposidly from gt350 compared to stock 2011 assembly. The "gt350" is exactly 1" shorter at 12 3/4 " from transmission output flange to rear assembly mount tip. What does this mean? This will potentially allow me to move the shifter back 1" and interchanging the longer 2011 control linkage with the "gt350" top bushing bracket will allow me to move the shifter higher vertically closer into the stock fc shifter location. Or I can swap the hurst short shifter kit into the stock 2011 assembly and just push the whole motor and trans forward 1", preferrably I'd want the motor as far back as possible. I pulled off the 2011 mustang motor's oil pan and patched the hole the stupid junkyard punched into the pan with jb weld. Not a perm fix, just to prevent water ingress. Upon inspection I noticed some horrendous scoring on one of the crankshaft's counter balancers, big time red flag untill I noticed a lazer etched number. I didn't notice anything like this on the fwd edge motor, did Ford balance the mustang rwd 3.7 engines' crank to allow for a higher redline? Im now curious to look for balancing marks on the con rods... Im currently trying to buy my first house so I probably wont get the motor in and start fabricating mounts for at least a month.

 

That's cool stuff

 

New taillights.

Evo 10 Paddle shifters

 

In the making.

 

 

First layup

 

skirts look sick!! you should do a video on the process

 

Thanks bud, but there are plenty of carbon fiber skinning videos out there. The only reason I'm making these is because there aren't any that fit this widebody. So, you have to buy one you like then hack it up anyway.

 

Pretty layer

 

 

 

Nice!! Did you use an existing skirt and cut it up or did you build from scratch?

 

If you look at the previous post you can see a white rain gutter, that purple hard foam insulating from Lowes that I shaped, and a board at the bottom Then everything is wrapped in duct tape.

 

You probably don't need that foam, or even the splitter at the bottom. You could just use the rain gutter. I just needed the sideskirt to be lower to match the rear bumper.