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I know there's a LOT more wires here than I need/will be using, plus with using the stock 240 lighting, I'll have to combine things to make routing neater. So my plan was to cut out a LOT of it, and "combine" harnesses before even trying to route them in the car, just to have less wires to get caught on. I also have the dash harness, forgot to mention.
I think I remember seeing a post a while back that had a list. But couldn't tell if other swappers had gotten the j-box with their harness...
i thought you asked if i had the harness in the bay, that no, i DO however, have the engine and trans all mounted in. The shifter, however.... is becoming a trick i've shortened the mount linkage almost 2" already, and am working on the actual "shift' linkage....Obligatory Pictures:
That looks great. The gt350 shifter assembly is slightly shorter and bolts right up. I have both as I picked up a used hurst shifter that had been on a gt350 for $100
Nice work 2Fordy, very professional looking. My project is stalled and probably will be until summer. Biggest issue is having a place to work. So in a month or so I will start building a nice shop which I have always wanted.
I have a question about pic #2, the one taken from the side. It looks like the engine sits high in the engine compartment. The pic makes it look a hood would not fit without cutting a large hole in it. Is it the angle of the photo maybe?
Are you using an MT82 trans? How about the flywheel? Are you using something lighter or the stocker? Is the driveline one piece or split?
30:
Thanks, im growing to become very pleased with it and looking forward to starting/driving it someday (who knows when). I was hopeful about a gt350 shifter after seeing your post above, but after measuring that i would have had to shorten that one also, i figured it better to just cut up a stock one for now.
Rehoward:
Thank you. yes, the engine sits quite a bit proud of the hood line. im not entirely sure how far to be exact, but there will be a large hole in the hood that i plan to build a "sealed cowl" (Hood-Bump?, whatever you want to call it) that was the purpose of that picture actually, to show how tall the cyclone fit in this car (also see included picture of the sub-frame that i notched (to be filled) so that i could get it as low as possible without deleting the factory 240sx behind the axle steering. (Note: im using a FWD oil pan to allow clearance of the rack.)
I am using the MT82 out of a V6 mustang (Note, the V8 trans is not the same, as some believe, the bell-housing is different.) For now im going to run stock 3.7 flywheel, clutch, etc, as my drive-line came with all of it from the yard, but i may go GT flywheel in the future. Im not sure what you mean by the "one piece or split" driveline comment? - if you mean driveshaft, ill be having a custom one made to adapt to the stock 240sx differential flange, as a one piece.
What I should have said is: "is the drive line one or two pieces"?
Why does the engine sit so proud of the hood line? Is the engine exceptionally tall? How tall is the engine from bottom of the oil pan to highest point? What is the height of the stock engine compartment (cross member to the hood line)? Would removing the factory air intake plastic allow a more compact design?
just the usual engine/transmission, "2-piece" system, nothing out of the ordinary there.
the S13 (89-94 240sx) naturally has a short hood line, it's close even with the old 2.4L KA24E/DE. and those are fit in tucked way towards the back, as the back of the engine bay has more room than the front (sloped hood). i dont know the exact dimensions for height offhand, but they're drastically different, that's for sure. I think there was mention of the 3.7 dimensions earlier in the thread, not sure exactly where offhand.
A different Intake plenum would help, but as far as i can tell (currently) i'll be clearancing my hood for the front of the valve covers as well.
I am working toward putting a 3.7 and MT86 in a 1988 Chrysler Conquest (AKA Mitsubishi Starion. I will drive it NA for a while to get the bugs out and then do a twin turbo installation similar to the 3.5 ecoboost. I think that engine should drop in pretty easily. I found the dimensions that you mentioned and the engine really isn't too tall at 24".
GREAT Choice of platform. those cars are killer, a buddy of mine had one that i should've bought when he sold it ... but i was already bitten by the S13 bug.
My "roadmap" is similar, i plan to track my car so the TT upgrade down the road was enticing for "OEM bolt on" power (ish).
Odd question: Is anyone "building" on any social Media platforms (posting pics etc.?) - if so i'd like to know the usernames so i can follow.
Well, i broke down and got to it, thanks to the Link that's floating around to the 2011 "iihs" manuals, i've gotten some pretty good progress. (removed wires pile under the table legs). i've so far deleted the power steering, ABS, HVAC, headlights/turn signals, and horn. and am working on tracing wires from the under-hood harness into the body harnesses (the ones still in the looming pouting in the corner) to skinny those up as well.
one thing i cant seem to find in the web of those diagram links is an ECU pinout diagram, does anyone have one of those (or know where to find it in the links)?
myself as well as im sure MANY others will be forever grateful.
i also realized i never posted the link i mentioned for any that dont know it - Ford Workshop Service & Repair Manuals - fordrepair.info Home - 2011 Mustang
that will take you to, what i believe is, the service manual for a 2011 mustang, which is what i've been using up until now to thin out my harness, but hit a snag at a couple wires that ran from SJB to PCM, so thats why i needed the pinout. (you use the link directory in the top left to navigate, it's a bit clunky, but it works.
i did find this in the manual, just not the pin list page you have. so THANKS AGAIN!
Found something today in my searching that i think may help some (since i realized i have a 6r80 harness not an mt82 harness- Yay more work for me.... *rolls eyes at self ignorance ...)
(See doc attached to this post), its a pin-out diagram array for various connectors. - im using it to "rebuild" a harness for an MT82 out of the 6R80 harness i have.
EDIT: I see now it has ECU pin-out as well! - be wary though, it's for the 5.0, though i believe you could cross reference a lot,.
I've now hit a roadblock that i'm hoping someone (i'm guessing Mach.80) may be able to help with, after this i should be mere hours away from a first (Test) fire of the motor.
i have the wiring in the car, and have started confirming system function, the instrument cluster lights up, i can talk to the ECU, and have confirmed some fuel gauge wires for the sending unit! HOWEVER, i am having issues getting my starting circuit to provide power to the starter motor. I do have a tune that is now on the ECU with a PATS disable, and the car is not throwing codes, but still, no dice on the starting circuit. - i have considered wiring my way around this (directly to the starter relay), but am cautious due to cold start routines, as well as how the ECU knows to trigger the injectors etc. etc.
I am planning on spending a TON of time this weekend chasing down wires (for like the 5th time) in case i missed a signal or something from another module that the ECU needs to fully trigger the starter circuit. But wanted to ask the following question:
For someone (this is likely the Mach.80 part) that has a successful swap running - can you please confirm which modules from the mustang are in use, and what all electrical connectors on them were kept.
- currently i have the ECU and SJB/BCM, but i have connectors "deleted" on the SJB/BCM.
Pictures are fun! (im a bit further than this now, but still)
I only use the pcm no modules. As far as the start wires, I just run the key thru a relay directly to solonoid. At first I ran strait thru the key which works but the old rx7 has always had igniting issues. The computer will detect rotation and will fire.
