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I don't like that spacing on the subframe. I don't trust the bolts like that.
I used spacers and washers inside to center them AND I don't like that either.
BUT the big difference is that I exchanged the bolts for longer bolts. To be honest it was the hardest part of the swap. The bolt heads are welded in and they are splined as well. the holes in the frame have tubes welded inside too.
you have to cut off the welds then hammer the bolts UP outta the holes.\ If you did that already then get longer bolts.
You need more thread then what I see in the picture.
Now all that said, I plan on purchasing the subframe kit for the 2jz setup. It may be best for location and stability.
I thought I could do it on the cheep but realized shifting will most likely cause alignment issues. and if it falls off...well.
So I picked up that subframe lowering kit you suggested, $120 shipped.
the plan is to pull the motor back out, put the body on jack stands and level it. I've removed all subframe connections besides lower strut bolts. The I'll grind and install the kit. Next will be motor and transmission mount fabrication, I'm excited 🤣
So I picked up that subframe lowering kit you suggested, $120 shipped.
the plan is to pull the motor back out, put the body on jack stands and level it. I've removed all subframe connections besides lower strut bolts. The I'll grind and install the kit. Next will be motor and transmission mount fabrication, I'm excited 🤣
I gotta swap to that setup too. It's the most legit way to keep things safe and alignment in check
Whether it clears the firewall depends on how far you space the engine off the firewall. Also..the engine weight you quoted was for the turbo version...the non turbo weighs in just a little over 300lbs from what I have read(have yet to hook mine to a fish scale to find out). I guess the question you need to ask first is how much power you are planning to make. The duratec is a capable platform...non direct injected turbo versions(like they used in the Noble M12) make north of 400HP with less displacement than the duratec 35 and 37. In the Ginetta G60 the 3.7l makes 310 HP from the NA 3.7. I believe they run a Haltech engine management system. People routinely make 350HP out of the 3.7 once adding longtubes, x pipe, intake etc.(the usual intake header exhaust(IHE)). If you are shooting for 500HP...either the 3.7 or the 3.5 will get you there(assuming the 3.7 is boosted) though the 3.5t will do it without touching the internals(I suspect the 3.7 would as well, but dont know for sure). I tend to find 300HP is more than enough for a car weighing in under 3000lbs(10:1 power to weight ratio) for the street, but some people like to drive monsters around...I prefer OEM reliability for a daily driver myself.
Yoooouuuuu where have you been at? No Miata updates?
Keep up the good work, the end result is an amazing machine.
While my car has been on hold for a while I got the job of my dreams and moved to a new local.
Now she will again get the attention she deserves. She is now tuned on 92 octane and meth injection.
There's no Magic Juice here (E-85). Maybe I'll make my own someday. There's a permit involved.
As for now it's on to refining the car and working on the little stuff.
As Chip Foose says " It's all in the details."
Keep up the good work, the end result is an amazing machine.
While my car has been on hold for a while I got the job of my dreams and moved to a new local.
Now she will again get the attention she deserves. She is now tuned on 92 octane and meth injection.
There's no Magic Juice here (E-85). Maybe I'll make my own someday. There's a permit involved.
As for now it's on to refining the car and working on the little stuff.
As Chip Foose says " It's all in the details."
Cheers,
Joe
well the washers that came with are some 1/16th joints so I swapped them out for those 1/8th washer spacers I had lol. I hammer up after I hand shave the welds with files and crack em loose with a cold chisel. Seems the least damaging considering the close quarters. Rain is coming so unfortunately I have to stop. I don't have to work till Wednesday so I'll finish cutting the welds, clean up and install before then. I also have to weld the cut into my frame rail that my idiot brother did with a cutoff blade.
Task complete
i have a problem though. The dowel pins provided in the kit are 10mm where as the spacer is about 9.7mm will probably take a week to get a replacement. I think I'll see if they can make the set 1 ¼" instead of just 1" 😀
I gotta swap to that setup too. It's the most legit way to keep things safe and alignment in check
so I was thinking, hopefully enjuku sends me a brand new set. Then I can send you my old set and you could just take the rear spacers to a machine shop and have then drill them to 10.1mm on a drill press.
I would love that! Too bad they don't fit. They must have changed the brand of hardware or something.
Keep me updated
i think whoever machined them was their first day lol. They used a 3/8ths drill bit instead of 10mm. Hopefully they're open Monday and I'll call enjuku.
Well it's .475 mm smaller of a hole and I figure they need .1mm for thermal expansion considering how close to the exhaust they sit. The dowel pins are steel and the blocks aluminum, so if there is no clearance and the silica content on the aluminum is too high just the lack of clearance alone and thermal expansion would crack the spacers.
ill keep you posted on the new spacer situation.
Hey , been looking through your progress of installing the 3.7 , Planning on doing the same but with a Pinto Wagon , been searcing for engine Dimensions on the web and have not found the exact ones I need , the one I am interested in is valve cover to valve cover , and how wide the oil pan is at the top , to far from a wrecking yard to locate one nearby , found a few but they do not want to take the time to stick a ruler to it , also interested in 30MPG , tahnks for your time , Blaine in Mississippi
Pinto one,
Valve cover to valve cover is under 25".
Oil pan is approximately 11" across at the top.
My engine is installed so it's hard to tell. But in the ballpark
Pocket bunny flares? Da **** lol.
i would go measure mine as well but the car is an hour drive from where I'm at right now. I might go by there tomorrow. I just found out today that I'm a 2 hr drive from enjuku, had I known that I would've just gotten a local pickup instead of getting parts shipped. FML also their closed for holiday 😑
Pinto one,
Valve cover to valve cover is under 25".
Oil pan is approximately 11" across at the top.
My engine is installed so it's hard to tell. But in the ballpark
Fwd oil pan but bolt pattern is same, confirmed.
off topic:
The 2017 Ford GT has a 3.5 EB soooo guess what?
That 3.5 has forged machined connecting rods. All we need is forged pistons and the 3.7 can have a completely forged bottom end lol I wonder if Ford will sell the rods separately for less than a competitor's forged rod price.
yeah I recently sent them a message to notify them that the fwd block will bolt to a rwd transmission with oil pan, pickup, pilot bushing, flywheel & clutch.. they weren't too sure if it does. 😁
04-09-17, 08:50 AM
3.7 eng dimensions
