Thanks , been looking at this engine for a few years and now I have to make my mind up to put in my Pinto Wagon , It had the 2.8 V6 in it and had to rob it when my other pinto busted the heads when it ran hot, Done the 5.0 swap years ago and the turbo 2.3 also , but those engines are not inproduction anymore but the 3.7/3.5 ecoboost is , just got to see if it will fit , the bottom of my frame rails are 24 inchs , oil pan will have to be made to a front sump, made them before and the 3.7/3.5 the oil pump is in the front ,transmission will be a EAOD or C-4 , Quicktime make bellhouseings for both , all Pintos with the V-6 came with the 8" rear end , Thanks for your time .Blaine

 

you might want to look into importing a Ford Barra 4.0L straight six from Australia as well

 

Thanks for the oil pan mesurement , that leaves me with 6" per side for engine mounts , the Ausi straight 6 will not fit , toooo long , there is only just enough roon for a tight 5.0 , the only other 4.0 would be the early Ranger/Exploer 4.0 , have a ranger and an engine , that would bolt in but its also not inproduction anymore , done a test fit , the its related to the 2.8/2.9 engine and even the motor mounts do bolt up , but less than 25 MPG in my truck and only 160 HP, on the width I have got 21 to 26 inchs , if its 22 I get to keep my power brake booster , over I have to get some boots to step on it , I do think the heads are much narrower than the valve covers , notice some are black composit , others are alum, could cut and reweld the covers to fit if that close , I did not know if the engine was out of your car or installed , but thanks again , do believe I can make it fit without pull out to much grey hair , Blaine

 

forgot to post this , From the net and other people guesstaments I found 21 to 26 inchs , the ford site on the new 3.5 ecoboost show the width but adds the turbos so that was a wash , just forgot to post this on my last post ,

 

quick note: the rwd block(stang & f150) doesn't have a power steering pump. I chose the fwd engine because of this. I am looking into swapping in an older 2007ish 3.5 duratec power steering pump as it has threaded outlet/inlets that would be easier to get custom hoses for. If it fits that is.

 

thanks on the info , room in the front of the engine will be tight, the power steering can be fixed both ways , mounting a power steering pump if you can or go to electric powersteering , a few pintos have been converted , by useing a unit from a toyota corola , there is a you tube video of it , might save you some more room , will find the link for you when i return home ,

 

Cracked open the ford 8.8 It's that I pulled from the junkyard. In hindsight I should've cracked it open before I pulled it... Oh well. The good news, the pinion and ring gear look great with a great wear pattern. The bad news, the spider gears look like ****. I have a few options though. I could buy a new spider gear set for $60-120. I could goto the junkyard and find a LSD carrier and swap it in and pray my backlash stays put. I can buy a Spartan locker for about $150 and install it. Or lastly ride it till I can't stand the clunk.
Thoughts?

 

Boom shakalaka!

I'm considering flipping the front bolts upside down so I have the ability to tie into the frame for my front motor mount. I used my "spacer" washers instead because they look like monsters compared to the kit washers. There is plenty of meat left on the bolts even with the big washers.



The biggest pain in the *** was getting the washers on the backside in the hole and staying put.
Thoughts?

 

Hey bud,
As far as the rear end, I'd fix it before install. I wouldn't wanna deal with it later.
Regarding the bolts and eng mount I think it's a fantastic idea to tie the frame into the whole setup and will make a brace down the road too. Great idea

 

So I've read this thread front to back 3 times. I'm getting ready to actually buy the stuff I'm gonna need from a junkyard to swap this thing into my 2000 Mustang. I think I have a pretty good handle on what's gonna be needed but I just wanted to go over some stuff regarding the wiring in particular. I know I'll need the engine and trans harness as well as ECU, the part I'm a little confused about is the fuse box and body harness.
Is the body harness connected to the fusebox, do I need it? The wiring that would originally go through the firewall and under the dash, is that connected to the fusebox or a different harness? How much of it do I need? Basically I just want to know EXACTLY what I want to get before I go to the junkyard so I can get everything all at once ideally.

 

There's a junkyard near me that will be hopefully getting a 2012 mustang in soon and supposedly it was a rear ended which should hopefully allow me to get everything I need intact which is why I'm asking.

 

youd have to ask Mach.80 about that. I'm gonna try to set my electrical up as a 4 wire systems(grand, acc, run &start) the stock ECU has a passive anti theft system that will have to be reflashed in the false flag position.

 

Grand meaning off? (I'm thinking of a typical ignition switch) Care to elaborate what you mean by 4 wire system?

 

I recommend the power by hour coyote swap harness. For people who are not comfortable with the electrical aspect of this swap. I will eventually go this route for my car as well.

https://pbhperformance.com/shop/pbh-6r80-body-harness/

 

I can handle electrical no problem as that is my my area of expertise, I just don't have access to a 2011-14 to see and understand how everything goes together. I wish I could find a manual or some diagrams of this stuff but google has next to nothing. Doesn't help that this swap is rare either.

 

Honestly, you need access to alldata a website provided to professional mechanics such as ford mechanics.
That's how I figured itl out. Wire by wire. Alldatahad the engineering schematics.

 

Any suggestions to get my hands on that info other than buying it since I'm not a mechanic?

 

I'll try to dig up what I have when we get a lil closer

 

If I could just find an ECU pinout and/or a wiring diagram, I cannot for the life of me find out what the pinout is for the ECU connections. I just want to know what parts of the harness you used and what you needed to do to it to make it work so I can get a starting point.

 

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd
Not sure how accurate these are.

 

Got to working on an issue I really didn't want to tackle till fabrication time but I was bored. The rear coolant pipe is a friction fit with an o-ring, there are no hose clamps. So my idea is to weld metal bands to pipe and secure it with the knock sensor bolts. This modification will make it a big-time pain in the *** to replace a bad knock sensor as the pipe sits so close to the bolts, oh well. Here are some rough mock ups pictures of the pipe.



I still have to finish welding and drill the bolt holes, then rough it up and paint it.
One concern I have is, I have no clue where I need to put an inline thermostat housing, lol.
This is the fwd thermostat housing:

The top hole with the bolts is where it attaches to the fwd lower intake pipe. The pipe that I am currently modifying goes in the hole that you can see the thermostat, pressure fit with o-ring. My hypothesis: the water pump sucks coolant through the heads and into the block water jackets. This makes my lower intake manifold hose into my radiator inlet and my rear pipe(the one I'm modifying) is my hot pressure output. I already assumed I would need an inline thermostat housing with a heater core inlet. Is my hypothesis correct?

 

Honestly I cannot remember how the water flows in this engine. I think your right though. I spoke to Tom at SuperSix.com and he explained everything to me. But I have a horrible memory. I eliminated my heater. Noe need living in the tropics. That saved a lot of hoses and headaches. I did have it working but made it too hot in the car. However they do have heater core electric valves that redirect the water and bypass the heater core. That was my plan til I moved.

 

Well I'll just save the cooling system till last and test it with a 5 gallon bucket and some flex hose to see where water squirts out lol

 

Yeah I think my confusion was where the hot side flowed for the heater core and where the siphon for the overflow bottle went into the thermostat.
Now my only issue is my overflow bottle isn't high enough to siphon from the bottom of the bottle. It siphons but I have to keep the level real high.
So every once in a while I raise the bottle above the engine and make sure theres no bubbles in the engine. since its a sealed and pressurized over flow bottle and system I think it's ok for now. I will revisit this issue and eventually flind an over flow bottle that fits above the engine next to the intake manifold.

 

Maybe you have the overflow cap ports flip flopped? Do our heater cores only flow 1 direction?