My 12a rotary starlet - NOW 13b Turbo2
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 594
Likes: 1
From: Dominican Republic
nice starlet!! i miss those little cars when i was 16 back in new zealand we used to do donuts and burnouts every weekend party and have fun quick jack up on the axel have new tyres on in 10mins lol
they are like dime a dozen over there very popular with rotary swaps..
congrats on a nice ride
cheers
chris
they are like dime a dozen over there very popular with rotary swaps..
congrats on a nice ride

cheers
chris
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 594
Likes: 1
From: Dominican Republic
lol all i have is the old nikki I had before laying around, there should be another way to do this like ordering some hose and fittings or something like that ?

btw thats a nice mod u had there wacky
Just get a fuel pressure regulator that has a return line port and run a line back to the fuel tank. You can even run the factory steel return line from the regulator, that's what I did for a while.
Just Tee into the supply line. Put the 2-port regulator on the tee and let it relieve pressure to the return line. This will give you the full flow capacity of the fuel pump with fuel pressure controlled by the regulator as a bypass. This setup makes the 2-port function like a 3-port regulator. All a 3-port regulator is a 2-port regulator with a built in Tee.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 594
Likes: 1
From: Dominican Republic
I guess if I buy this regulator I will be all set, am I right ? 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4307M/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4307M/
Here is a pic of my old Mallory 3 port regulator set up. The line on the top right is the input, the line one the left is the output to the carb, and the line on the bottom is the return line back to the fuel tank. You can see the rubber hose on the bottom goes to the factory steel line back to the tank. If you dont have this steel line, then you can just use make a line that goes back to the tank.
The FPR link that you posted above is for fuel injection. Get the one for carburetor. It looks the same but is silver and gold.
Here's the pic-
The FPR link that you posted above is for fuel injection. Get the one for carburetor. It looks the same but is silver and gold.
Here's the pic-
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 594
Likes: 1
From: Dominican Republic
Here is a pic of my old Mallory 3 port regulator set up. The line on the top right is the input, the line one the left is the output to the carb, and the line on the bottom is the return line back to the fuel tank. You can see the rubber hose on the bottom goes to the factory steel line back to the tank. If you dont have this steel line, then you can just use make a line that goes back to the tank.
The FPR link that you posted above is for fuel injection. Get the one for carburetor. It looks the same but is silver and gold.
Here's the pic-
The FPR link that you posted above is for fuel injection. Get the one for carburetor. It looks the same but is silver and gold.
Here's the pic-
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 594
Likes: 1
From: Dominican Republic
Hey guys, its been a while since the last update. Well I took the starlet for a trip yesterday (around 40miles each way) and you cant travel like this no the car lol. I need to fix this carb issue and I dont really know how to correct the problem.
It looks like the car is running very rich and yesterday it got like flooded or something like that, I recorded a small vid so you can see the idle of the car and judge by it and the sound of the engine.
I still have the same settings on my carb as before and I think that now is the time to start changing jets so the car feels better when you drive it.
Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQNn8tiMYJ8
Carb settings in case you forgot :P
37 chokes
200main
150 air
f11 etubes
65F10
Thanks
Emir-
It looks like the car is running very rich and yesterday it got like flooded or something like that, I recorded a small vid so you can see the idle of the car and judge by it and the sound of the engine.
I still have the same settings on my carb as before and I think that now is the time to start changing jets so the car feels better when you drive it.
Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQNn8tiMYJ8
Carb settings in case you forgot :P
37 chokes
200main
150 air
f11 etubes
65F10
Thanks
Emir-
sounds like you can use a larger idle jet OR you dont know how to adjust the air/fuel mixture screw. plus that 37 venturies are too small. you may get a good low-end but you will end up with a sucky freeway speed (small venturies will act like a governor on freeway speed)
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 594
Likes: 1
From: Dominican Republic
Thanks for your reply Mel, let me tell you that the car was idling just fine before the trip and that it wasted a hell lot of fuel during the trip. It averaged like 10-13kms/gal on the freeway and that in my opinion is way too much for a non ported 12a engine
and still was running crappy.
I have 40 venturies and a couple 70 idle jets, what you recommend me to do, change the venturies first or change both things at the same time ??
Thanks
Emir-
and still was running crappy.I have 40 venturies and a couple 70 idle jets, what you recommend me to do, change the venturies first or change both things at the same time ??
Thanks
Emir-
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 594
Likes: 1
From: Dominican Republic
Hey Mel,
First let me say Happy New year to you. Best wishes for you and your family.
Now back talking about rotaries
I just swapped the 37 chokes with the 40's and now the engine revs wayyyyy faster and smoother than before.
When I rev the engine it makes it really smooth past 7k and before it was failing to get just to 7k and was starving for more fuel (I believe) because it was making a cut if I accelerated the car super fast while shifting from 2nd to 3rd.
All I did was replace my needle from 200 to 300 and replace the 37 chokes for 40's. I thought I was using the 65F10 idle jets but to my surprise I am using 70F10 idle jets LOL.
I didnt touch the fuel press and now the car while I am accelerating doesnt starve for fuel or leans out, it just go up like a rocket lol.
Now I need to address the exhaust problems(leaks) that I have and fix em asap, I am sure that I am losing lots of power thanks to running with a crappy pos exhaust
Thanks again
Em-r
First let me say Happy New year to you. Best wishes for you and your family.

Now back talking about rotaries

I just swapped the 37 chokes with the 40's and now the engine revs wayyyyy faster and smoother than before.
When I rev the engine it makes it really smooth past 7k and before it was failing to get just to 7k and was starving for more fuel (I believe) because it was making a cut if I accelerated the car super fast while shifting from 2nd to 3rd.
All I did was replace my needle from 200 to 300 and replace the 37 chokes for 40's. I thought I was using the 65F10 idle jets but to my surprise I am using 70F10 idle jets LOL.
I didnt touch the fuel press and now the car while I am accelerating doesnt starve for fuel or leans out, it just go up like a rocket lol.
Now I need to address the exhaust problems(leaks) that I have and fix em asap, I am sure that I am losing lots of power thanks to running with a crappy pos exhaust

Thanks again
Em-r
Glad its running better now. So just so you know what you did. When you add a larger choke(40 from a 37), and leaving the jetting the same, you basically just made your mixture leaner by allowing more air to enter the engine. Larger choke=more air in engine=leaner mixture. So you most likely were running too rich with the previous setup, which I think someone prior was trying to tell you.
Mi pana que lo que hay?
ive been reading this thread for a few hours this weekend,i was born in la capital ,,,hopefuly would be out there this 2010 u can fill me in on the track thats open i have a first gen 12a bridggie nitroso,,,
good luck with your project and keep posting vids i have a few buddies with starlets out here in GA usa..Also..
ive been reading this thread for a few hours this weekend,i was born in la capital ,,,hopefuly would be out there this 2010 u can fill me in on the track thats open i have a first gen 12a bridggie nitroso,,,
good luck with your project and keep posting vids i have a few buddies with starlets out here in GA usa..Also..
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 594
Likes: 1
From: Dominican Republic
Glad its running better now. So just so you know what you did. When you add a larger choke(40 from a 37), and leaving the jetting the same, you basically just made your mixture leaner by allowing more air to enter the engine. Larger choke=more air in engine=leaner mixture. So you most likely were running too rich with the previous setup, which I think someone prior was trying to tell you. 


Mi pana que lo que hay?
ive been reading this thread for a few hours this weekend,i was born in la capital ,,,hopefuly would be out there this 2010 u can fill me in on the track thats open i have a first gen 12a bridggie nitroso,,,
good luck with your project and keep posting vids i have a few buddies with starlets out here in GA usa..Also..
ive been reading this thread for a few hours this weekend,i was born in la capital ,,,hopefuly would be out there this 2010 u can fill me in on the track thats open i have a first gen 12a bridggie nitroso,,,
good luck with your project and keep posting vids i have a few buddies with starlets out here in GA usa..Also..
Tengo varias dudas acerca de lo que se necesita hacer para poner mi 12a nitroso y ese tipo de cosas. If you can give me some info te lo agradeceria 
The track at la capital is very nice, ya hay pantallas que marcan los tiempos de los carros
.Emir-
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 594
Likes: 1
From: Dominican Republic
Update:
Today I decided to inspect the spark plugs to see how they looked after being using the car with all the not so optimal running conditions
.
I noticed that the plugs on the rear rotor(t2,L2) has the tan/brown color on them and I guess those are the signs of good mixture ?
On the other hand the pair of plugs on the first rotor appear to be darker and according to the explanations here those are symptoms of running rich, correct?
The main reason I am posting this is because I took the car for a ride today and the truth is that the car car runs way better than before, but it made a lil stumble when I pushed hard when going into 3rd gear, my fuel press gauge, it is still reading 3 psi and jay told me is supposed to be 4.5psi
?? I am starting to think that the reading is not accurate.....
Take a look at the pictures and let me know what you guys think.
Thanks
Emir-




Today I decided to inspect the spark plugs to see how they looked after being using the car with all the not so optimal running conditions
.I noticed that the plugs on the rear rotor(t2,L2) has the tan/brown color on them and I guess those are the signs of good mixture ?
On the other hand the pair of plugs on the first rotor appear to be darker and according to the explanations here those are symptoms of running rich, correct?
The main reason I am posting this is because I took the car for a ride today and the truth is that the car car runs way better than before, but it made a lil stumble when I pushed hard when going into 3rd gear, my fuel press gauge, it is still reading 3 psi and jay told me is supposed to be 4.5psi
?? I am starting to think that the reading is not accurate.....Take a look at the pictures and let me know what you guys think.
Thanks
Emir-








