Nice build! I have always wanted a early Starlet with a Rotary...
Instead I put a 13b REW into a 1969 Mini, and converted it into RWD! Like to do things the REALLY hard way!!! LOL
Don't know how much a turbo2 engine is supposed to make, but my REW (single turbo) is
making 286,5 WHP at 12,33 psi...

 

Thanks, I saw your mini and your skills are awesome!! it will take years for me to get to your skill level or maybe i wont even get to that lvl

Is your engine stockport, you only have a single turbo and thats all?

I should be around 205-210whp if I go back to the dyno with the BOV installed. I also have issues with my fuel system so I will redo that completely with braided lines.

 

I have limited skills, but am quite patient and learn as I go along!
The engine is stockport, single turbo (.84 exh./.50 compr).
I run an Adaptronic programmable ECU, so we can tweek it at the Dyno/rollers.
Next step is to up the boost to 14-17 psi and see what it makes.

 

Hood Scoop:

Well to be honest the car looks evil now so I cant fool like I used to do other cars on the streets and then spank em

Before:





After:

I will post more pictures of the car with the hood scoop now.

 

Fuel System:

Well so I was told that the issue I am having is due to fuel press dropping when the car is during load on the streets, so I decided to redo the whole fuel system and relocate the fuel pump as well and to be honest the old fuel system was kinda of messy so I hope this will fix the problem so I can rev this thing hard on the streets .

The fuel tank was leaking also and I tried repairing that but after trying to weld a lot of wholes I decided to ditch the damn tank and install a fuel cell, I ordered one and I am waiting for it to arrive so I can finish everything and test the car.

 

Emir, I have some advise on your install. I don't like how close the fuel lines are to the driveshaft. If you have a u joint failure and the driveshaft starts flopping around at any amount of mph, you are asking for a big ball of fire if you know what I mean. I would also move the fuel pump as close to the fuel tank outlet as
possible as it too looks real close to the driveshaft/rearend and try to stay away with butt connectors on wiring. Try and solder the connections together so you don't have to worry about those butt connections coming loose. Good luck, looks like it is coming along.

 

Thanks for the advise Jay, I will see what I can do then to relocate the lines and the fuel pump can be relocated very easy since I will fab a box on the trunk and the pump can go right there.

 

Jay has a good point mi pana,,, get those lines away from that shaft....

 

that thing does look evil!!! sick project

 

Yea I know, I will see what I can do. You dont have that much of space on a starlet


Thanks!

 

be careful, someone may yank that copper line off your car and sell it at scrap yard.

 

i dont see what the big deal is on the fuel lines,on my repu the driveline is right next to my tank if it were to break it would destroy it.. guess it dont hurt to be safe

 

Finally the car is running with no issues . It had a mix of bad things together but they all are sorted now and let me tell you that this thing is fast.

There are still a few minor things like the tranny stick to get fixed but now I can drive the car on the streets and have some fun

The turbo is boosting up to 11-12psi and I am running into fuel cut, guess I will have to get a chipped ECU or get a fcd.

 

First off you have to remove that regulator from the firewall (yikes). It would not pass a tech inspection. Also you have the fittings finish off with a steel braided line. NEVER mount your regulator in a solid state due to vibration. I see this time and time again. common fix is using rubber isolators. In addition regulators should be mounted in front or near of the engine. This will allow the low pressure fuel flow from the regulator to work with the g-force when the car is under throttle.

Did you ever consider a bypass system? It will help maintain carb bowl pressure to 1/2 lb and also allows constant flow of fuel flow to the entire system making the fuel pump and regulator more responsive to the carburetor and engine.

Good luck with the project

Eric
Straightline Performance

 

Thanks for your ideas but the car is not running with a 12a anymore, it has a 13b turbo2 now

 

Update

Now the car has a complete exhaust in 2.5 inch with a Universal 2.5 inch RB Muffler. The car is very quiet now and I like it a lot

Car is almost ready to start racing again at the 1/4 mile, still need to get a pair of rear shocks and fix some weird issue with the tranny.

 

very nice and straight you didnt consider a 3" exhaust

 

Thanks and yes I did consider that but since there is not that much space I decided to go with 2.5'', even with 2.5" I am having fitting issues

 

Looking good Emir. Like mentioned above, a 3 or even 3.5" exhaust will net more power with a turbo car. Turbo's dont' like much back pressure. Take it to the track and let us know what she runs. Good luck

 

looks good, You should post some new videos!

 

Thank you Jay, I guess I will have to change it in the future then and try to fit at least a 3'' exhaust down there


Thanks, will keep you guys posted!

 

nice project. how much pressure are you running on your 13b now?

 

Thanks, you mean pressure as in turbo psi? If so I am running 10-12psi

 

Emir, if I were you. I would make your exhaust system have quick disconnect so that you could run the full exhaust when you drive on the street and then for the track you can disconnect it and just run a dump pipe.

 

You are right I think this is a better alternative Jay, I will just change my dp with a 3'' and make it a quick disconnect, this is what I will do.

Thanks again.