My 12a rotary starlet - NOW 13b Turbo2
08-25-09, 07:57 AM
#76
Wow there is some activity on my thread 
, well I went to the Dyno yesterday and I made 109whp @ 6350rpm and 104 tq @ 4450 rpm. Does that makes any sense? I mean the dyno is new and they were setting the configs yesterday and I have a lil doubt regarding the numbers
also the A/F was at 12.7 - 12.9 all the way so I didnt touch the fuel press or the carb at all
Thanks jay. I will get some vids for sure 
, well I went to the Dyno yesterday and I made 109whp @ 6350rpm and 104 tq @ 4450 rpm. Does that makes any sense? I mean the dyno is new and they were setting the configs yesterday and I have a lil doubt regarding the numbers also the A/F was at 12.7 - 12.9 all the way so I didnt touch the fuel press or the carb at all
08-25-09, 02:58 PM
#79
No, it probably wouldn't be the best choice for a PP 13b. It would sit there at idle, gulping fuel, if the idle circuit was not modified. If you know anything at all about porting, rotaries and carburetion, you would know that it could flow enough for a PP. But even if it couldn't, there is a HUGE difference between the carb possibly not flowing enough for a PP and...
It's not my fault you don't know.
Since you singled out my product specifically and did nothing but talk **** about it, I figured you needed someone to correct you on the facts.
-Thanks for all your help Mel. You're one hell of a friend.
It's not my fault you don't know.
Since you singled out my product specifically and did nothing but talk **** about it, I figured you needed someone to correct you on the facts.
-Thanks for all your help Mel. You're one hell of a friend.
I don't have time to go back and find your post where you said that your carb would probably be a little too small for a Bridgeport and Pport. So if you now say that it can great. The main reason why I run and recommend an IDA carb because it is one of the easiest and fastest carbs to tune. Everything is interchangeable. I'm not sure about your Carb. Can you change the chokes and venturies and all fuel and air circuit jets? Like I said, I heard good things about your carb on this forum and I was not trying to bash your carb, so sorry if it came off like that. Iwas just trying to help someone new to carb tunning and the IDA is one of the easiest IMO.
NOefrz- looks like your running rich. You want your AFR's to be around 13.2-13.5. Set your timing around 25-27 degrees. I would start with 25 and go up and see if you gain more power, but between 25-27 is where you will gain the most torque/power. Every engine will be different so you will just have to play with it and test on the track or on the dyno.
08-25-09, 03:10 PM
#80
I don't have time to go back and find your post where you said that your carb would probably be a little too small for a Bridgeport and Pport. So if you now say that it can great. The main reason why I run and recommend an IDA carb because it is one of the easiest and fastest carbs to tune. Everything is interchangeable. I'm not sure about your Carb. Can you change the chokes and venturies and all fuel and air circuit jets? Like I said, I heard good things about your carb on this forum and I was not trying to bash your carb, so sorry if it came off like that. Iwas just trying to help someone new to carb tunning and the IDA is one of the easiest IMO.
NOefrz- looks like your running rich. You want your AFR's to be around 13.2-13.5. Set your timing around 25-27 degrees. I would start with 25 and go up and see if you gain more power, but between 25-27 is where you will gain the most torque/power. Every engine will be different so you will just have to play with it and test on the track or on the dyno.
NOefrz- looks like your running rich. You want your AFR's to be around 13.2-13.5. Set your timing around 25-27 degrees. I would start with 25 and go up and see if you gain more power, but between 25-27 is where you will gain the most torque/power. Every engine will be different so you will just have to play with it and test on the track or on the dyno.
So do you think that the numbers made by my 12a looks to be accurate ? I have read that they are around 100whp and all I have is a lil exhaust porting
08-25-09, 06:06 PM
#81
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
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No worries, Jay. Just that every time someone dissuades someone else from running a Sterling Nikki on a ported rotary, it's another missed opportunity for me to make Mel eat his words and finally shut the **** up, that's all. 
(BTW, you don't ever need to change out venturis on a four barrel, and yes, the emulsion tubes are machined to accept Holley air bleeds, which also fit as fuel jets.)
(BTW, you don't ever need to change out venturis on a four barrel, and yes, the emulsion tubes are machined to accept Holley air bleeds, which also fit as fuel jets.)
08-25-09, 08:11 PM
#82
My buddy Dennis, I never said that a sterling is bad, instead, I said it is not the same as using an IDA. So when will you send your "very best sterling carb" for me to try out. You never know, I may like it and trade you for my extra set of 4.44 gears. LMK.
So when will you send your "very best sterling carb" for me to try out. You never know, I may like it and trade you for my extra set of 4.44 gears. LMK.
08-25-09, 08:39 PM
#83
Thank you Jay for your input, I will go to the track this Saturday and see how she performs as is, will play with those settings in the future.
So do you think that the numbers made by my 12a looks to be accurate ? I have read that they are around 100whp and all I have is a lil exhaust porting
So do you think that the numbers made by my 12a looks to be accurate ? I have read that they are around 100whp and all I have is a lil exhaust porting
I would just leave what you have right now and go to the track and make two to three clean passes to get a good starting point. Then you can start making small adjustments like leaning out the carb and adding timing to see if the car makes more power. If your ending MPH picks up after an adjustment, then you made and increase in power. See, no more having to go to the dyno. The track is the best place to tune your car. There are many factors that come into play that a dyno cannot' really duplicate, like airflow over and into the engine and of course if the suspension is setup correctly to put the power to the ground. Go out and have some fun and don't worry about trying to go 10 seconds on your first run. You will most likely run 2-3 seconds slower than what you think your going to. My first run at the track with my car I ran a 9.5 in the 8th mile. A year later and I'm running 7.5's with the same motor and minor adjustments. One of the main components you want in drag racing is a good rearend, drivetrain and tires. Looks like you got a strong rearend in so now you just have to dial it in and make sure it runs straight. Later you can put a bigger engine or do some porting to the one you have. Good luck.
Ps. I forgot to ask. Did you install the 48 IDA yet? I gained alot of horsepower on my stock 12a port when I went from the Nikki to the IDA.
08-25-09, 09:34 PM
#85
nOferz- What's your real name so I can stop calling you fricken nOferz? LOL
I would just leave what you have right now and go to the track and make two to three clean passes to get a good starting point. Then you can start making small adjustments like leaning out the carb and adding timing to see if the car makes more power. If your ending MPH picks up after an adjustment, then you made and increase in power. See, no more having to go to the dyno. The track is the best place to tune your car. There are many factors that come into play that a dyno cannot' really duplicate, like airflow over and into the engine and of course if the suspension is setup correctly to put the power to the ground. Go out and have some fun and don't worry about trying to go 10 seconds on your first run. You will most likely run 2-3 seconds slower than what you think your going to. My first run at the track with my car I ran a 9.5 in the 8th mile. A year later and I'm running 7.5's with the same motor and minor adjustments. One of the main components you want in drag racing is a good rearend, drivetrain and tires. Looks like you got a strong rearend in so now you just have to dial it in and make sure it runs straight. Later you can put a bigger engine or do some porting to the one you have. Good luck.
Ps. I forgot to ask. Did you install the 48 IDA yet? I gained alot of horsepower on my stock 12a port when I went from the Nikki to the IDA.
I would just leave what you have right now and go to the track and make two to three clean passes to get a good starting point. Then you can start making small adjustments like leaning out the carb and adding timing to see if the car makes more power. If your ending MPH picks up after an adjustment, then you made and increase in power. See, no more having to go to the dyno. The track is the best place to tune your car. There are many factors that come into play that a dyno cannot' really duplicate, like airflow over and into the engine and of course if the suspension is setup correctly to put the power to the ground. Go out and have some fun and don't worry about trying to go 10 seconds on your first run. You will most likely run 2-3 seconds slower than what you think your going to. My first run at the track with my car I ran a 9.5 in the 8th mile. A year later and I'm running 7.5's with the same motor and minor adjustments. One of the main components you want in drag racing is a good rearend, drivetrain and tires. Looks like you got a strong rearend in so now you just have to dial it in and make sure it runs straight. Later you can put a bigger engine or do some porting to the one you have. Good luck.
Ps. I forgot to ask. Did you install the 48 IDA yet? I gained alot of horsepower on my stock 12a port when I went from the Nikki to the IDA.
my real name is Emir, alright I will follow your advices and see how she performs this saturday at the track(hope it doesn't rain)About the IDA all I am missing now is the manifold, I ordered some jets to begin with the tuning so I should get the setup installed soon
08-27-09, 06:08 PM
#87
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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Great car! I have a buddy here with a 13b p port Starlet... I love those cars... If I did not have th eRX2 I woud be looking for one of them..
Amaría ver un poco de vídeo de su coche
Amaría ver un poco de vídeo de su coche
08-28-09, 07:58 AM
#88
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7cDBbzfnYs This one was the first time at the dyno, was there last monday and made 109 whp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4w9Cvclv_Z0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiOyr6zKC7E
Hope you like them
09-07-09, 08:32 AM
#89
Guys, went to the track last saturday and I was happy/sad at the same time first was happy because I improved my personal et to a 15.7 and sad because I was expecting it to be lower
Anyways I have a friend of mine who has the same engine setup, rear end gear ratio, on his starlet and he told me he ran 14.8, what can that be?( am I a very bad driver or what ?)
Also my 60ft where ****, 2.2 and I dont know why, these tires are supposed to hook atleast 1.9 ????
Check the vid below and tell me what you think!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tf4uyXGzYaU
Anyways I have a friend of mine who has the same engine setup, rear end gear ratio, on his starlet and he told me he ran 14.8, what can that be?( am I a very bad driver or what ?)
Also my 60ft where ****, 2.2 and I dont know why, these tires are supposed to hook atleast 1.9 ????
Check the vid below and tell me what you think!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tf4uyXGzYaU
09-07-09, 10:40 PM
#90
Congrats on a new PB. Don't be sad, you had a good time right? This is a good starting point. From now on you can learn and only go faster. Remember I ran a 9.5 in the 8th mile my first time out. You definitely are loosing some time on the launch. To much tire spin in first and second. What tire pressures are you using? Also, it would be in your best interest to try and find some full drag slicks. These will hook alot better and improve your times alot. I thought your shifting was not bad, probably better than mine, hehe. There's always room for improvement. Get some slicks and install that 48 IDA and I guarantee a full second or more from your time.
09-08-09, 07:39 AM
#91
Congrats on a new PB. Don't be sad, you had a good time right? This is a good starting point. From now on you can learn and only go faster. Remember I ran a 9.5 in the 8th mile my first time out. You definitely are loosing some time on the launch. To much tire spin in first and second. What tire pressures are you using? Also, it would be in your best interest to try and find some full drag slicks. These will hook alot better and improve your times alot. I thought your shifting was not bad, probably better than mine, hehe. There's always room for improvement. Get some slicks and install that 48 IDA and I guarantee a full second or more from your time.
Emir-
10-06-09, 09:38 PM
#92
Little update:
Got ae86 front disc brakes, ae86 struts + a bigger brake master cyl. Need to sort out the rear brakes still but she now stops easier/faster
Had to ditch the front 12'' wheels and swap em with some 14'' so brakes could clear lol
Going to try to install finally the 48ida this weekend, got the mani I needed to complete the setup
Well thats all as of now. Waiting for that major upgrade aka the ida swap over the stock nikki and see how she performs after the install.
Got ae86 front disc brakes, ae86 struts + a bigger brake master cyl
. Need to sort out the rear brakes still but she now stops easier/fasterHad to ditch the front 12'' wheels and swap em with some 14'' so brakes could clear lol
Going to try to install finally the 48ida this weekend, got the mani I needed to complete the setup
Well thats all as of now. Waiting for that major upgrade aka the ida swap over the stock nikki and see how she performs after the install.
10-17-09, 08:24 PM
#97
the day has arrived!!
Well guys I finally installed the IDA on the car and let me tell you that this thing revs so smooth and fast that it is scary
I still need to tune it better because on my way home she flooded and I dont know really why, also need to remove the omp and block it with a piece of metal.
Jets are as follow(thanks wacky for suggesting what to get to begin tuning on a stockport)
37 chokes (going to swap these with 40 asap)
200main
150 air
f11 etubes
65F10
Let me know what you guys think
here is a and a vid, enjoy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6crh2aK3Xs
I still need to tune it better because on my way home she flooded and I dont know really why, also need to remove the omp and block it with a piece of metal.
Jets are as follow(thanks wacky for suggesting what to get to begin tuning on a stockport
)37 chokes (going to swap these with 40 asap)
200main
150 air
f11 etubes
65F10
Let me know what you guys think
here is a and a vid, enjoy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6crh2aK3Xs
10-17-09, 11:44 PM
#98
Told you. hehe. Congrats, sounds good. Now time to learn how to tune. If you're serious and have the money get a good A/f guage and a good EGT guage. If you don't have the money, then take your car out on a long stretch of road or at the drag stip. Make a pass and right after you cross the finish line or at the end of 3rd or 4th gear turn the motor off and coast into the pits or over to the side of the road. Pull out both the leading spark plugs and inspect them. If you're running too rich the plugs will be black. If you're running too lean they will be white. You want a nice tan color on the porcelin tip.
Regarding your flooding issue. Make sure your float level on the carb is right and fuel pressure set at 4.5psi. If you see fuel pooring in your venturies at idle or right when the engine is off, chances are the float level is too high. You should be running a 60 or a 65 idle jet. How does the car run when you get on it?
Regarding your flooding issue. Make sure your float level on the carb is right and fuel pressure set at 4.5psi. If you see fuel pooring in your venturies at idle or right when the engine is off, chances are the float level is too high. You should be running a 60 or a 65 idle jet. How does the car run when you get on it?
10-18-09, 10:19 AM
#99
Told you. hehe. Congrats, sounds good. Now time to learn how to tune. If you're serious and have the money get a good A/f guage and a good EGT guage. If you don't have the money, then take your car out on a long stretch of road or at the drag stip. Make a pass and right after you cross the finish line or at the end of 3rd or 4th gear turn the motor off and coast into the pits or over to the side of the road. Pull out both the leading spark plugs and inspect them. If you're running too rich the plugs will be black. If you're running too lean they will be white. You want a nice tan color on the porcelin tip.
Regarding your flooding issue. Make sure your float level on the carb is right and fuel pressure set at 4.5psi. If you see fuel pooring in your venturies at idle or right when the engine is off, chances are the float level is too high. You should be running a 60 or a 65 idle jet. How does the car run when you get on it?
Regarding your flooding issue. Make sure your float level on the carb is right and fuel pressure set at 4.5psi. If you see fuel pooring in your venturies at idle or right when the engine is off, chances are the float level is too high. You should be running a 60 or a 65 idle jet. How does the car run when you get on it?
. I am going to get an A/F gauge for sure in the future just needs to save the cash for it , will decide later on the egt gauge.Well I have not try the car that much yet but on my way home she appears to cut speed/power when I go past 7k-8k and I need to change gears(did this in 3rd), also looked to me that she starved for fuel when I went past 100km/h(more or less like in 3rd gear too).
Currently my fuel psi is set to 3 psi. Was at 3.5 before but when it flooded we lowered it from 3, think I should raise it again to what you said 4.5psi ??
I just noticed that I have 70 idle jet and not 65 like i thought
. My needle is 200.
10-18-09, 06:32 PM
#100
Set your fuel pressure at 4.5 and leave it alone, but make sure your guage is accurate. If you are flooding at 4.5 psi, then you have other issues like a bad needle seat, fuel float level too high.With a stock port you may even need a 60 idle jet, but once you get past 3000 rpm the idle jet is not doing anything. If you are cutting out at higher rpm's chances are you are running lean. Try using some higher main fuel jets. Just jump up to the next size and go out and test it. Keep jumping up until the car stops making power. If it keeps getting worse, then go the other way. This is why a A/f and EGT makes things so much easier- it takes the guessing game out. Also, set your timing at 25-26 degrees BTDC and run 0 split if you can. If you can't run 0 split then run the least amount of split as you can. You can notch out the vacuum pod slots for the trailing to advance the trailing some more. . Just don't advance the trailing more than the leading obviously. Also, check and make sure your spark plugs are not fouled. If they are you have to replace them.
. Just don't advance the trailing more than the leading obviously. Also, check and make sure your spark plugs are not fouled. If they are you have to replace them.
