Bugeye update
#102
$ ain't everything, rite?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, I was wonder what I should do there? How did you modify the lever on the top of the pedals. It doesn't look like I could fit 2 master cyl where the original one was. Do you have a pic of your set-up?
#103
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
Oh right you have an early car. Mine is a '77 and the pedals are a lot further apart. You could either upgrade to a later pedal assembly and run two cylinders or use what you have but make sure your pressure plate is no heavier than OEM.
No pics yet but I can recommend a clutch that won't kill your left leg muscles. Stick with stock. In a car as small and light as these, anything stock duty will behave like a high end expensive clutch setup. You also definitely want a light aftermarket flywheel. When I said stick with stock I refered to the pressure plate and clutch disc only. The flywheel must be no heavier than a light steel. I recommend aluminum. Otherwise you'll overpower the rear wheels practically every time you accel from a stop.
No pics yet but I can recommend a clutch that won't kill your left leg muscles. Stick with stock. In a car as small and light as these, anything stock duty will behave like a high end expensive clutch setup. You also definitely want a light aftermarket flywheel. When I said stick with stock I refered to the pressure plate and clutch disc only. The flywheel must be no heavier than a light steel. I recommend aluminum. Otherwise you'll overpower the rear wheels practically every time you accel from a stop.
#105
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Glad to hear about the painless
As far as rotaryshack goes, still haven't gotten my parts yet. Give him a call and he never answers (both phones or email). I guess it is a hit or miss with him if you do decide to go with it. In all honesty I would look somewhere else, that way you know you will get what you ordered when they say they have it.
As far as rotaryshack goes, still haven't gotten my parts yet. Give him a call and he never answers (both phones or email). I guess it is a hit or miss with him if you do decide to go with it. In all honesty I would look somewhere else, that way you know you will get what you ordered when they say they have it.
you are the one that said ok to free turbo prepping right? so your order will take longer.. maybe he will just send the damaged 48 ida you wanted to trade for and call it a day? please tell all the details..
#106
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
I just dropped a very large streetported 4 port 13B in the Midget this evening. This engine has been around the block a few times so based on how I know it drives, I chose a light steel flywheel for this install. If I had gone with a stock ported 13B, or possibly '74 ported (kinda between a mild streetport and a stock 12A port) as was my original idea, I'd have gone with aluminum, but because this engine has such characteristically poor low RPM torque due to the extreme port job, I chose to give myself a leg-up. Plus the last time I drove the Midget, it had a '74 ported 13B from my REPU and a light steel flywheel, and it did quite well from low to mid RPM hindered in the upper range only by the undersized exhaust system. With this next engine I know the low RPM will be hindered by the ports, but I'm assuming the light steel flywheel will improve the driveability over aluminum. Plus I'm redoing the entire exhaust in 2.5" so mid to high should be fine. The goal is 150 to 160 HP. Think I'll get there?
#107
$ ain't everything, rite?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So Jeff my 13b with open 5th and 6th will benefit more from an aluminum flywheel since these open ports will hinder low RPM's as well? I have a 2" exhaust, should I go to 2.5? Thanks, for the help, I want to do this right.
#109
GET OFF MY LAWN
iTrader: (1)
For your pedals and masters just use a later Midget pedal assembly. It will bolt to half of the stock bolt holes and only requires a notch at the bottom of the stock pedal hole to make it about 3/4" wider. The notch only needs to be about 3" tall as well. That will give you seperate clutch and brake masters and opens up your options.
I keep forgetting to open the paint cabinet to get that code for you. I did get to run my 2 240V circuits for my biodiesel plant though...
I keep forgetting to open the paint cabinet to get that code for you. I did get to run my 2 240V circuits for my biodiesel plant though...
#110
Hey Bugeye, looks good.
At the moment I'm having the 12A in my Midget replaced with a 13B. Though I'm keeping the EFI.
You might want to look at Frontline Spridget's offerings. They have some good stuff there.
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/frontline/
At the moment I'm having the 12A in my Midget replaced with a 13B. Though I'm keeping the EFI.
You might want to look at Frontline Spridget's offerings. They have some good stuff there.
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/frontline/
#111
$ ain't everything, rite?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
JG that's a great idea! I will look for the midget assembly tonight. As for the paint code when you get a chance just send it along. Good luck with the Bio plant.
#113
It's a '78. It still doesn't have the new engine in it yet, but I have a picture of the 12A it had. A previous owner did the swap. It was a pretty bad job (no heater for the carb, auxiliary ports welded up [JDM 6 port], used the original radiator, etc).
I bought a totaled FC and had the engine rebuilt and street ported (should give me ~175hp). I bought the front suspension and front brake kits from Frontline.
The new engine should be in by the end of the month. I'll post a thread when its done. And yeah I wussed out and am having someone else do the engine swap. I don't trust myself cutting up and otherwise modifying the body shell.
I bought a totaled FC and had the engine rebuilt and street ported (should give me ~175hp). I bought the front suspension and front brake kits from Frontline.
The new engine should be in by the end of the month. I'll post a thread when its done. And yeah I wussed out and am having someone else do the engine swap. I don't trust myself cutting up and otherwise modifying the body shell.
#115
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
Ah, you had a 6 port 12A in there. Interesting. I bet it only had low end if the aux ports were blocked. The stock intake ports (primaries and secondaries) on those 6 port 12As are painfully small. Only good for low RPM like a 13B, but not much high end. And the aux ports aren't all that big either. You'll really like having a 13B in it.
#116
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
Bugeye RX, you could get by with an aluminum flywheel. It will reduce the chances of spinning the rear wheel(s). I only chose light steel for various reasons too boring to get into here.
I think you could go with 2.5" exhaust. Remember there is little room under the car and no high areas to fit bulbous mufflers. I'm looking into mufflers no taller than 4".
I think you could go with 2.5" exhaust. Remember there is little room under the car and no high areas to fit bulbous mufflers. I'm looking into mufflers no taller than 4".
#117
$ ain't everything, rite?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok Jeff I'm going with the aluminum. As for exhaust I have plenty of room in the rear as I removed the external gas tank and install a Jaz cell inside the cargo hold so I could get a higher capacity tank to extend my cruising range. I will go with 2-1/2 pipe and pre-silencer. I think I can away with a horizontal set-up back there.
#118
$ ain't everything, rite?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh yeah man thats sweet, you are gonna luv the 13B, from what I hear. Along with the suspension and brake mods thats gonna feel like a whole new car. Keep me post I'm most interested in how it works out, thanks. Dave
#120
Stu-Tron Get Yo Groove On
iTrader: (4)
Talked to Kerebrus about his weber 45 kits he had for sale. I asked him if he would trade for my 48IDA because it was not jetted for a 12a. He said no, but he asked Robert and he said he would trade.
Sent a Weber 48IDA to Robert. Did not know the condition of it besides it came off of a RUNNING setup. Rob agreed to trade me on his own half, I did not twist his arm. He could have said no when he received it and shipped it back. Also, the only "DAMAGED" part that I was told was the throttle shaft was bent a micrometer or some sort.
He also OFFERED to do the boost prepping for free himself. Robert is a great guy, just wish he would answer his phone a little more.
Also, when I last talked to him (actually time before last, someone from Louisiana drove there to have him work on his car, never did call me back like he said) he said it was ready to go, just waiting on the epoxy to dry. That was about 3 weeks ago. Must be some great epoxy
I would suggest that YOU get all the details straight. I am not saying Robert himself or his company is bad, he does provide us with services for a dying breed of car. I just wish he would answer his phone.
Now lets not get this off topic. If you have any concerns I would suggest you use the Private Messaging feature of the forum.
#122
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
I think you'll really like the aluminum flywheel.
A 2.5" RB presilencer and a Magnaflow are in the works for my exhaust. I hope it will be quiet enough for the street.
I was talking with fellow form user Ogre and we were thinking my setup might be closer to 175HP. Kinda scary. RB Holley 600, adaptor plate, stock '76 reverse runner manifold (highest flowing stock manifold according to Carl), DLIDFIS. I'm not trying to compete with anyone elses Spridget, but a little friendly competition is good for you. It's keeping me motivated, so that has to be a good thing.
A 2.5" RB presilencer and a Magnaflow are in the works for my exhaust. I hope it will be quiet enough for the street.
I was talking with fellow form user Ogre and we were thinking my setup might be closer to 175HP. Kinda scary. RB Holley 600, adaptor plate, stock '76 reverse runner manifold (highest flowing stock manifold according to Carl), DLIDFIS. I'm not trying to compete with anyone elses Spridget, but a little friendly competition is good for you. It's keeping me motivated, so that has to be a good thing.
#123
175 will be scary. For a rough idea here is an example of a 165hp K-series swap.
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/frontline/k-series.htm
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/frontline/k-series.htm
#124
Ah, you had a 6 port 12A in there. Interesting. I bet it only had low end if the aux ports were blocked. The stock intake ports (primaries and secondaries) on those 6 port 12As are painfully small. Only good for low RPM like a 13B, but not much high end. And the aux ports aren't all that big either. You'll really like having a 13B in it.
Oh and for more insanity here is a 13B Spridget track car.
http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BrianKraus.htm