DC Area thread - The District, NoVa, Maryland
DGRR looks awesome and I've always wanted to go. Not too many of the of the local guys go though. I would love for something to be organized so a bunch of us can caravan down.
Other things of note, Sunday's forecast is high of 50 without a cloud in the sky. I'm leaning more and more toward running the ChilllyCross. Anyone in?
Karting meet thread is up Post if you are coming-> https://www.rx7club.com/ne-rx-7-forum-30/im-getting-bored-who-wants-go-karting-thread-983060/
selling my coilovers: https://www.rx7club.com/ne-sale-wanted-classifieds-196/double-adjustable-mazdaspeed-koni-race-coilovers-983642/
you know you want them Ian
you know you want them Ian
Well looks like the housings have too much flaking to be used. The chrome flake is approximately 19mm wide (I think the most "allowed" is 2mm).
Now I am going to switch over to a S4 13b n/a with a carb, premixing.
Any thoughts, ideas, or suggestions?
Now I am going to switch over to a S4 13b n/a with a carb, premixing.
Any thoughts, ideas, or suggestions?
why S4? if you're swapping it anyway, S5 is going to be better....
Also, I have a friend who might have a webber intake manifold sitting around if you're interested.
theo (pele) probably has some spare 12A housings sitting around....
Also, I have a friend who might have a webber intake manifold sitting around if you're interested.
theo (pele) probably has some spare 12A housings sitting around....
Karack's shop is closing up so you might want to check this thread to see if he has anything you need
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...5#post10940465
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...5#post10940465
I've gone the last two years. It is a GREAT time. Me and Fendamonky did our own caravan the first year, but last year I caravaned with about 4-5 other cars. You could also meet up with the NY/NJ caravan group.
Karack's shop is closing up so you might want to check this thread to see if he has anything you need
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...5#post10940465
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...5#post10940465
I will try to get in touch with Theo. I don't really remember why S4, maybe it was originally for the OMP, but I don't need to worry about that. This is why I asked for input. Oh and I am going to street port it.
If you could, find out about that intake manifold.
Last edited by wesmcbride; Jan 17, 2012 at 03:47 PM.
Awesome, I'll post up on here if I sign up. I want to wait to see what this years AutoX schedule is going to be before I commit. Hopefully the have that out before Nantahala Village is fully booked.
I figured I would bump this thread and give an update on how things are going for me.
Well after tearing everything apart and cleaning up things, looks like the things that need to be replaced are: housings, thrust plate/bearings, seal springs, o-rings and gaskets. Everything else looks to be reusable and in spec. I am going to get the Atkins rebuild kit A - with solid corner seals. Any input?
What is the difference between the OEM and competition thrust bearings? Going to get parts 1, 2, 4 and 5.
Well after tearing everything apart and cleaning up things, looks like the things that need to be replaced are: housings, thrust plate/bearings, seal springs, o-rings and gaskets. Everything else looks to be reusable and in spec. I am going to get the Atkins rebuild kit A - with solid corner seals. Any input?
What is the difference between the OEM and competition thrust bearings? Going to get parts 1, 2, 4 and 5.
according to the mazdaspeed catalogue:
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs...ary_Edited.pdf
the competition one is "heavy duty" :-P
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs...ary_Edited.pdf
the competition one is "heavy duty" :-P
if anyone cares, my FC is getting some serious work done to it to make it more reliable/ track ready:
v-mount install (new rotary extreme kit)
possibly new coilovers (if someone buys my old ones)
S4 control arms with delrin bushings
spherical sway bar end links
AWR front brake ducts
Hawk DTC60/30 pads
re-wiring the engine for my new MS3X board, enabling sequential injection and boost control
drilled and tapped coolant line that goes to throttle body, and put pipe plugs in, hopefully it stops leaking...
lots of heat sheidling/wrap on the exhaust.
installing my other exhaust manifold with EGT Bungs threaded into it already.
installing oil temp and pressure gauges.
replumbing turbo oil lines.
tearing out all my ABS lines and replacing them with non-ABS brake lines.
maybe installing a spare race seat I have.
I think that's it... it all needs to be done by the DC ProSolo on the 4/13
v-mount install (new rotary extreme kit)
possibly new coilovers (if someone buys my old ones)
S4 control arms with delrin bushings
spherical sway bar end links
AWR front brake ducts
Hawk DTC60/30 pads
re-wiring the engine for my new MS3X board, enabling sequential injection and boost control
drilled and tapped coolant line that goes to throttle body, and put pipe plugs in, hopefully it stops leaking...
lots of heat sheidling/wrap on the exhaust.
installing my other exhaust manifold with EGT Bungs threaded into it already.
installing oil temp and pressure gauges.
replumbing turbo oil lines.
tearing out all my ABS lines and replacing them with non-ABS brake lines.
maybe installing a spare race seat I have.
I think that's it... it all needs to be done by the DC ProSolo on the 4/13
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: virginia
I have an 84-gsl-se work in arlington live in warrenton, just popping in to say hey. Im about to order a rebuild kit for my car along with new shocks, springs, and bushings all the way around, new clutch and a manual trans rebuild kit I have allready along with an omp rebuild kit and new oil cooler lines hoping to have it done in the next few weeks. Anyone rebuild there motor yet them selves? Any tips or pointers?
Hi RxKaos, great to have you here. If you look back at post 257 in this thread I put up a link to an Aaron Cake video that you might find interesting. He's done some good videos that you might want to watch. Good luck 
I have an 84-gsl-se work in arlington live in warrenton, just popping in to say hey. Im about to order a rebuild kit for my car along with new shocks, springs, and bushings all the way around, new clutch and a manual trans rebuild kit I have allready along with an omp rebuild kit and new oil cooler lines hoping to have it done in the next few weeks. Anyone rebuild there motor yet them selves? Any tips or pointers?
And before you order a rebuild kit, check all your parts to see if they are still in spec (many things are i.e. side seals) This could save you hundreds of $$.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: virginia
Yea im def. gonna get the dvd. I am a mechanic so I should have most tools but it is my first rotary. And im most likely ordering the full rebuild kit from racing beat which comes with side seals apex seals ect. They do have the race rebuild and the standard rebuild but the only difference is the apex seals, the race kit comes with carbon apex seals and the standard kit comes with mazda apex seals, anyone here have a preference on a rebuild kit or if I should go with the mazda apex seals or the racing beat carbon apex seals?
Yea im def. gonna get the dvd. I am a mechanic so I should have most tools but it is my first rotary. And im most likely ordering the full rebuild kit from racing beat which comes with side seals apex seals ect. They do have the race rebuild and the standard rebuild but the only difference is the apex seals, the race kit comes with carbon apex seals and the standard kit comes with mazda apex seals, anyone here have a preference on a rebuild kit or if I should go with the mazda apex seals or the racing beat carbon apex seals?
From another thread:
I'm using the solid ones (corner seals) from Atkins. One advantage of them is you don't have to buy those rubber plug inserts (which tend to disappear once the engine is back together and running).
I recommend also using the green Mazda oil control o-rings. They are better than the Viton ones out there, IMO. Also, I tried the Atkins Viton ones, and found them to fit too tightly and broke a couple metal o-ring carriers. I've seen others have this problem, and some people that don't. The Mazda ones will fit perfectly and will last a long time. I also recommend OEM apex seals, but the Atkins ones will work too.
This is a break down of what I think:
- side seal springs (OEM)
- likely do not need new side seals
- apex seals and springs (OEM or Atkins)
- green OEM oil control o-rings
- new oil control carriers (can get away with used)
- new oil control carrier springs (OEM)..are also available in 'competition'
- soild corner seals
- '93+ corner seal springs
- rotor/main bearings, optional, depends on the condition yours are in. If yours are okay, keep the old ones
- soft seal kit (OEM)
- new t-stat and gasket
- FD oil pressure regulator (higher oil pressure)
- consider a nice streetport
- 17.5mm oil pump (you may already have depending on the year of the engine)
Other stuff to consider:
- pilot bearing, throwout bearing, clutch (might as well since you have easy access)
- front transmission seal (or front cover + seal)
- lightweight flywheel if that is something that you have been considering
- new belts, hoses
- new OMP lines
- rebuild OMP pump
- replace (or inspect) oil cooler lines, mounts, and oil cooler
- check radiator
- check waterpump
- general cleaning of engine bay
- clean/paint engine parts (housings, irons, waterpump, etc.).
I recommend also using the green Mazda oil control o-rings. They are better than the Viton ones out there, IMO. Also, I tried the Atkins Viton ones, and found them to fit too tightly and broke a couple metal o-ring carriers. I've seen others have this problem, and some people that don't. The Mazda ones will fit perfectly and will last a long time. I also recommend OEM apex seals, but the Atkins ones will work too.
This is a break down of what I think:
- side seal springs (OEM)
- likely do not need new side seals
- apex seals and springs (OEM or Atkins)
- green OEM oil control o-rings
- new oil control carriers (can get away with used)
- new oil control carrier springs (OEM)..are also available in 'competition'
- soild corner seals
- '93+ corner seal springs
- rotor/main bearings, optional, depends on the condition yours are in. If yours are okay, keep the old ones
- soft seal kit (OEM)
- new t-stat and gasket
- FD oil pressure regulator (higher oil pressure)
- consider a nice streetport
- 17.5mm oil pump (you may already have depending on the year of the engine)
Other stuff to consider:
- pilot bearing, throwout bearing, clutch (might as well since you have easy access)
- front transmission seal (or front cover + seal)
- lightweight flywheel if that is something that you have been considering
- new belts, hoses
- new OMP lines
- rebuild OMP pump
- replace (or inspect) oil cooler lines, mounts, and oil cooler
- check radiator
- check waterpump
- general cleaning of engine bay
- clean/paint engine parts (housings, irons, waterpump, etc.).
Yea im def. gonna get the dvd. I am a mechanic so I should have most tools but it is my first rotary. And im most likely ordering the full rebuild kit from racing beat which comes with side seals apex seals ect. They do have the race rebuild and the standard rebuild but the only difference is the apex seals, the race kit comes with carbon apex seals and the standard kit comes with mazda apex seals, anyone here have a preference on a rebuild kit or if I should go with the mazda apex seals or the racing beat carbon apex seals?
I don't have any experience with the carbon seals though. I would ask racingbeat.