Ongoing Montana thread
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From: Great Falls, Montana
You know, I have been tryin to get him to fork up that cash for you. But he has been acting like a real dick lately. He got me mad one day and I actually tried to take back the turbo for you untill he gave you the rest of the money. So he is probably all pissed at me for that now. But if your off monday as I think I am. Then we could pay him a quick visit. Sorry for that, I put some trust into him to get you that money quite a bit quicker. Just pisses me off as well as it is for you to have to wait for the money. I just thought he would be cool and get you paid quick.
Hi all, I just got a free 1985 RX-7 yesterday. The guy I got it from was being hounded by the city to have it moved, he couldn't get it started so he just gave it to me. He said he was done pouring money into it. He tore apart the underside of the dash and broke a bunch of parts under the steering column, mainly only the plastic, as far as I can tell. The rear drivers side fender and bumper are smashed in a bit, but still is drivable.
Anybody in the Belgrade/Bozeman area with some spare interior parts? mainly lower steering column piece? and surounding pieces, if any?
Other than that, I need to get the battery charged/replaced before trying to start it and figuring out why he couldn't get it started.
I am also interested in finding a mechanic that has experiance repairing rotory engines, I wan't to eventualy rebuild the whole vehicle from ground up, weather the engine works or not.
I figure, hell, the thing was free, so $1,000 to fix it seems reasonable to me. The cost of a 1985 rx7 used and running is close to that so, I'll play with it for a while.
Anybody in the Belgrade/Bozeman area with some spare interior parts? mainly lower steering column piece? and surounding pieces, if any?
Other than that, I need to get the battery charged/replaced before trying to start it and figuring out why he couldn't get it started.
I am also interested in finding a mechanic that has experiance repairing rotory engines, I wan't to eventualy rebuild the whole vehicle from ground up, weather the engine works or not.
I figure, hell, the thing was free, so $1,000 to fix it seems reasonable to me. The cost of a 1985 rx7 used and running is close to that so, I'll play with it for a while.
Average 20B swap in an FC cost about 10,000$. In an FD I heard it is about 12,000$ total due to more cooling issues and the small engine bay area problems. That includes engine, engine management, custom fabrication ranging from mounts to cutting the firewall and repositioning the transmission shifter location(sounds easy but it is a percise percedure). It would be CHEAPER if you wanted to just drop in a STOCK 20B but then your 13BRE is just as powerful, and you know you are going to want to mod it to get the serious HP numbers. Search around this forum, especially the 20B section and it will give you a rough idea of the work that is involved in something this detailed.
If you want power man, the 13bre is a great engine with awesome factory port design. Just get yours rebuilt(if blown), get a single turbo setup(T04S 60 trim), a Apexi Power FC, bigger injectors, ignition amplifier and a nice turbo back 3 inch exhuast. This will give you close to 380 to 400HP easy with a nice tune.
380 HP to the wheels is FAST man, very very fast given our car's power to wieght ratio
That is childs play in engine moddifying compared to the amount of work it takes to get an FC to that power range(trust me I know). So take advantage of the FD's open arms to mods(so much stuff that is availble that is user friendly).
That is a hell of a lot cheaper(3500-4000$ no rebuild/6000$ with rebuild, compared to 12,000$) then the headache with a 20B swap.
Hope this was somewhat enlightening.
If you want power man, the 13bre is a great engine with awesome factory port design. Just get yours rebuilt(if blown), get a single turbo setup(T04S 60 trim), a Apexi Power FC, bigger injectors, ignition amplifier and a nice turbo back 3 inch exhuast. This will give you close to 380 to 400HP easy with a nice tune.
380 HP to the wheels is FAST man, very very fast given our car's power to wieght ratio
That is childs play in engine moddifying compared to the amount of work it takes to get an FC to that power range(trust me I know). So take advantage of the FD's open arms to mods(so much stuff that is availble that is user friendly).
That is a hell of a lot cheaper(3500-4000$ no rebuild/6000$ with rebuild, compared to 12,000$) then the headache with a 20B swap.
Hope this was somewhat enlightening.
Last edited by FC3S Murray; Dec 9, 2007 at 10:48 AM.
AGHHHHHH!
I am going nuts waiting to do my f*cking rebuild. I am still in the process of getting all the loose ends tied up for this new turbo. Custom oil lines and all the flanges gets pricey.
One more month dammit!!
How is everyone else doing? Better watch out for Matt. I hear he is running something wicked.
I am going nuts waiting to do my f*cking rebuild. I am still in the process of getting all the loose ends tied up for this new turbo. Custom oil lines and all the flanges gets pricey.
One more month dammit!!
How is everyone else doing? Better watch out for Matt. I hear he is running something wicked.
hey guys! check out this meet we had in NC on sunday... kinda a short vid but u can see a little of what showed up!! lots of first gens
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...01002a6c1f.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...01002a6c1f.htm
ya it sure would! Thing is faster than it looks tho... I think he's putting a little of 400 to the wheels!! As of mine, I just put it in the shop (no place to work on it here) where I'm getting emissions removed, intake gaskets replaced, wastegate ported, and possibly a custom 3 inch exhaust
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From: Great Falls, Montana
See now we have to make a video. That should start earlier or in the middle of the day so we have some good day time video and stroll into the night cause it cools off and then have some night time fun and edit it all together and have ourselves a nice video. Well I suppose that might happen later on this spring or summer. Now I need to get the rest of my exhaust which sucks cause the RB presilencer is spendy. The rest isnt bad just mainly the presilencer. Unless I find one on here for a lil cheaper or whatever. Then a boost controller, some bigger secondaries mostlilkly like 720s and new fuel pump to make sure the fuel is getting to those injectors. I'm lookin forward to gettin this stuff soon. But I have all winter. Sooner the better though.
I would suggest fixing your oiling problem so your motor does not do the same thing that Seans did. I have to spend $38,000 dollars on my damn Teeth. Not to mention the $5 or $6 g's I need to finish up the car. School Loans this Fall.
I don't think my car is going to run at all this summer YAY!
Seriously someone give me like 5g's
I don't think my car is going to run at all this summer YAY!
Seriously someone give me like 5g's
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From: Great Falls, Montana
I have all winter to do that too. Thats on my list, Im just waiting untill we get our garage cleaned and get our little heater put in there. That way I dont freeze while doin workin on it. I have the pieces just need to do it .
Ransom,
His oil problem WILL NOT destroy his engine just driving "spirited". I did it for over a year and no problems. I talked to several people at Mazdatrix and RacingBeats shop and they briefed me on the major misunderstanding of oil pressure RX-7 owners have. Oil pressure at idle can be as low as 10 to 5 psi at idle since the engine is not in dier need of major cooling disipation. It is lubed with that low amount of oil pressure since engine speed in minimal.
Rule of thumb is 10psi of oil pressure to every 1000rpm. With my oil pressure problem on the street it really posed no IMMEDIATE threat since most of my driving took place at or around 3500/4000rpm. Granted the redlines we all like to let our cars see are somewhat high the low pressure will not cause engine failure very soon especially if your engine is seeing 40-45 psi. In addition the redlines we do are usually 1st through 2nd or a highway pull and the amount of time the internals spend at that speed the oil pressure(assuming max 40-45psi) will do its duty until oil hits it thermal breakdown range and the internal temps really start to rise.
I know I sound like I am justifying a cardninal sin. Of course it is NEVER good to run low oil pressure and it should be fixed asap. You will cause internal damage if you ran with this pressure a 100,000 miles with spirited driving. But we are not road racing and letting our motors see constant WOT and redline for long periods of continous time. THAT WILL **** YOUR MOTOR.
Matt's engine will be fine no matter what horsepower/mod level he is at.(unless that SOB hits the 500 mark somehow
)
So what the hell is up with your teeth? They better be made out of gold.
I would give you five G's if I had it but sad to say I have my wifes school loans to pay for!
His oil problem WILL NOT destroy his engine just driving "spirited". I did it for over a year and no problems. I talked to several people at Mazdatrix and RacingBeats shop and they briefed me on the major misunderstanding of oil pressure RX-7 owners have. Oil pressure at idle can be as low as 10 to 5 psi at idle since the engine is not in dier need of major cooling disipation. It is lubed with that low amount of oil pressure since engine speed in minimal.
Rule of thumb is 10psi of oil pressure to every 1000rpm. With my oil pressure problem on the street it really posed no IMMEDIATE threat since most of my driving took place at or around 3500/4000rpm. Granted the redlines we all like to let our cars see are somewhat high the low pressure will not cause engine failure very soon especially if your engine is seeing 40-45 psi. In addition the redlines we do are usually 1st through 2nd or a highway pull and the amount of time the internals spend at that speed the oil pressure(assuming max 40-45psi) will do its duty until oil hits it thermal breakdown range and the internal temps really start to rise.
I know I sound like I am justifying a cardninal sin. Of course it is NEVER good to run low oil pressure and it should be fixed asap. You will cause internal damage if you ran with this pressure a 100,000 miles with spirited driving. But we are not road racing and letting our motors see constant WOT and redline for long periods of continous time. THAT WILL **** YOUR MOTOR.
Matt's engine will be fine no matter what horsepower/mod level he is at.(unless that SOB hits the 500 mark somehow
) So what the hell is up with your teeth? They better be made out of gold.
I would give you five G's if I had it but sad to say I have my wifes school loans to pay for!
Ransom,
His oil problem WILL NOT destroy his engine just driving "spirited". I did it for over a year and no problems. I talked to several people at Mazdatrix and RacingBeats shop and they briefed me on the major misunderstanding of oil pressure RX-7 owners have. Oil pressure at idle can be as low as 10 to 5 psi at idle since the engine is not in dier need of major cooling disipation. It is lubed with that low amount of oil pressure since engine speed in minimal.
Rule of thumb is 10psi of oil pressure to every 1000rpm. With my oil pressure problem on the street it really posed no IMMEDIATE threat since most of my driving took place at or around 3500/4000rpm. Granted the redlines we all like to let our cars see are somewhat high the low pressure will not cause engine failure very soon especially if your engine is seeing 40-45 psi. In addition the redlines we do are usually 1st through 2nd or a highway pull and the amount of time the internals spend at that speed the oil pressure(assuming max 40-45psi) will do its duty until oil hits it thermal breakdown range and the internal temps really start to rise.
I know I sound like I am justifying a cardninal sin. Of course it is NEVER good to run low oil pressure and it should be fixed asap. You will cause internal damage if you ran with this pressure a 100,000 miles with spirited driving. But we are not road racing and letting our motors see constant WOT and redline for long periods of continous time. THAT WILL **** YOUR MOTOR
Matt's engine will be fine no matter what horsepower/mod level he is at.(unless that SOB hits the 500 mark somehow
)
So what the hell is up with your teeth? They better be made out of gold.
I would give you five G's if I had it but sad to say I have my wifes school loans to pay for!

His oil problem WILL NOT destroy his engine just driving "spirited". I did it for over a year and no problems. I talked to several people at Mazdatrix and RacingBeats shop and they briefed me on the major misunderstanding of oil pressure RX-7 owners have. Oil pressure at idle can be as low as 10 to 5 psi at idle since the engine is not in dier need of major cooling disipation. It is lubed with that low amount of oil pressure since engine speed in minimal.
Rule of thumb is 10psi of oil pressure to every 1000rpm. With my oil pressure problem on the street it really posed no IMMEDIATE threat since most of my driving took place at or around 3500/4000rpm. Granted the redlines we all like to let our cars see are somewhat high the low pressure will not cause engine failure very soon especially if your engine is seeing 40-45 psi. In addition the redlines we do are usually 1st through 2nd or a highway pull and the amount of time the internals spend at that speed the oil pressure(assuming max 40-45psi) will do its duty until oil hits it thermal breakdown range and the internal temps really start to rise.
I know I sound like I am justifying a cardninal sin. Of course it is NEVER good to run low oil pressure and it should be fixed asap. You will cause internal damage if you ran with this pressure a 100,000 miles with spirited driving. But we are not road racing and letting our motors see constant WOT and redline for long periods of continous time. THAT WILL **** YOUR MOTOR
Matt's engine will be fine no matter what horsepower/mod level he is at.(unless that SOB hits the 500 mark somehow
) So what the hell is up with your teeth? They better be made out of gold.
I would give you five G's if I had it but sad to say I have my wifes school loans to pay for!
No I have no Enamel etc. I could spend money fixing what I have and put this off but I might as well just start now and get it done. I guess it will take a year or two just to get it done anyway. I have not gotten myself in any real dept yet. I have the regular househole bills but nothing else so I just might get new teeth and take out a little loan for the 7. Might as well build some credit.
Last edited by chibikougan; Dec 14, 2007 at 12:03 AM.
You do remember I have a heated shop? I have most weekends off and don't do anything really. You guys are more then welcome to call me for warm workspace just let me know when you want to do some of this stuff and we can just pull er in the shop and get it done some weekend. I really don't mind the using of my shop. Although we might have to push the Turd with no radiator out of the way. Oh you might have to bring me a dew.
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Senior Member
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From: Great Falls, Montana
You do remember I have a heated shop? I have most weekends off and don't do anything really. You guys are more then welcome to call me for warm workspace just let me know when you want to do some of this stuff and we can just pull er in the shop and get it done some weekend. I really don't mind the using of my shop. Although we might have to push the Turd with no radiator out of the way. Oh you might have to bring me a dew.
What is going on guys? Every one ready for Christmas?
...I can't help but be pissed of about this winter. The whole time while I was moving back here from Cali I was a little bummed that I wouldn't be able to drive the 7 for the winter months. THEN when my engine went I was thinking,"oh well. It's not like I am gonna be driving it in 4 months anyway." WHAT THE HELL. This is the nicest winter I have ever experienced since I have lived in Montana.
Perfect days for a nice drive with beautiful intake air temps(except for all the f*cking gravel).
Right now I am waiting to get all my AN fittings for my fuel system. Figured I might as well get that finished while its components are off. Turbo system is complete and is scary. I have this list of all the **** I want and need for my ride and am gonna get it all finished this build.....it is a lot of money
. And i am a tight *** and it still comes out a couple grand. The biggest hit to the wallet is the rebuild kit and the Power FC(dumped the MS)
Well if I don't talk to any of you all, Merry CHRISTmas.
...I can't help but be pissed of about this winter. The whole time while I was moving back here from Cali I was a little bummed that I wouldn't be able to drive the 7 for the winter months. THEN when my engine went I was thinking,"oh well. It's not like I am gonna be driving it in 4 months anyway." WHAT THE HELL. This is the nicest winter I have ever experienced since I have lived in Montana.
Perfect days for a nice drive with beautiful intake air temps(except for all the f*cking gravel).
Right now I am waiting to get all my AN fittings for my fuel system. Figured I might as well get that finished while its components are off. Turbo system is complete and is scary. I have this list of all the **** I want and need for my ride and am gonna get it all finished this build.....it is a lot of money
. And i am a tight *** and it still comes out a couple grand. The biggest hit to the wallet is the rebuild kit and the Power FC(dumped the MS)Well if I don't talk to any of you all, Merry CHRISTmas.
Hey, anyone here have a mig/tig welder? My custom downpipe I bought from a forum member isn't even close to bolting right up to the included turbo set up. I have a 5' space between my presilencer and the DP. Thank goodness it is a modded RB downpipe so I can just order two RB flanges and some 3' inch pipe.
Just want to know if anyone has on or knows someone who can weld pretty well. It has been about 5 years since I welded and frankly i sucked.
Merry christmas too!!
Just want to know if anyone has on or knows someone who can weld pretty well. It has been about 5 years since I welded and frankly i sucked.
Merry christmas too!!


