Alright, a member on here purchased an E6k from me about 3 months ago and is claiming that the unit is defective. It came out of my FD, which ran fine when i took it apart. He is using it in an FC and is having issues.

He posted this video, which is supposed to show that the unit defective. Another memeber stated that he would have to mess with the map involving the RPM's in order to get it to work right. I know nothing about this stuff, so any help is appreciated.

The Fd this ECU came out of had the trailing plugs deleted and ran off MSD coils, if that matters at all.

Thanks,
Austin

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONQmN73jDaQ[/

 

I believe the 7.07 was known to be glitchy. Perhaps he should load the 6.34 version instead?

 

i saw a few variations between the settings in both ecus, the differences between the bad and good ecus are:

the "bad" ecu is set with a trigger mode of constant which the good ecu is set as adaptive
the "bad" ecu timing is locked at 5 degrees and tooth off is set at 3 which the good ecu is set with an offset of 11

and did he load his own maps into the "bad" ecu?

 

Thanks guys, i appreciate it. If anyone else sees anything or has any ideas, please let me know.

Thanks,
Austin

 

I don't get it. What's he claiming is defective about it (besides his air temp sensor not being connected)? Who's the user? Bring him into the thread or point...

Wait a second... did he try updating the firmware on it? On occasion, it flips out and produces this symptom. You have to jump the empty block jumper pins with a screwdriver (or 4-block jumper pin) and turn ignition on and back off. That should reset it where you can load in a map. Happened on a customer's car that embarrassed me for about an hour once.

B

 

7.07 was garbage.

6.34 works just fine in combination with firmware 8.14. That's what needs to be used.

B

 

The user is Mixed 88TII, i sent him a link to this thread.

Thanks guys,
Austin

 

I found a old thread on goole with a guy who had the same problem as I had witha E6K V7.07 - He had it since brand new and all of a sudden his ecu stopped reading rpms accurately on his road race fc and he just sent the ecu back to haltech for repair.

I have a laptop with like 15 different maps, from stock to bridge ported w/all kinds of injectors used. I even used my old RE 62-1 maps and still no luck with the car starting. Ive tried several of my maps even with editing them to HIT MAN and FACTORY ignition settings, even stripped my CAS wiring and re-soldered all wires etc to assure everything is set up proper and still no luck.

Air temp sensor disconnected wouldnt stop the car from even starting or idling along with the tps even being disconnected. Never tried or heard of Ur above mentioned technique. To afraid of frying the ecu. I did that by accidentally touching a power wire to the UIM which lead to the result of my original e6k frying and since stating "Reconnect haltech" error message...

Thats why i questioned the member i bought it from. Never heard of V7.07 I've only ever known or heard of V6.34 I did accuse him of selling me a defective unit, But also with saying that i mentioned everything with the ecu works just perfect except for its rpm reading with the factory T2 CAS.
As of today, its been 21days since Both my old E6k V6.34 and Austin's E6K V7.07 have been sent to Haltech for repair. Was told its a minimum of 1month wait time and there could be a possibility that they cannot repair the unit's due to being so old.
So im hoping that they are repairable and they will back to me sometime in march.