S5 TII Haltech E6k 1990

The ground and VREF wires are doubled in the harness in this particular build, because the car has two TPS units







(2)x Brown/Black - Ground

(1)x-Green/Red - Signal (Narrow range)

(2)x Brown/White - (5V+)

(1)Black/Green - Signal (Full range)

Right now I just have the Cam TPS wiring in as
Yellow - Black/Green (Signal Full range)
Red - Brown/White (5V+)
Blue - Brown/Black (ground)

Do I require wiring in my 2nd TPS or Is this fine by itself? Do I still need my Narrow range with my haltech?Orange (Use to wire in as Brown/white)
Green/red (Use to wire in as Green/red)
Black/red (Use to wire in as Bornw/Black)

As for the BAC? Do I just map it as not installed? or do i require plugging it in? (previously Plugged in and just the Intercooler line)

 

Ignore the narrow range sensor, it is not used in a regular standalone install. If you're feeling ambitious, check the FSM for what the narrow range sensor is used for. Shouldn't be too hard to replicate with a spare AVI.

The BAC Valve requires a PWM output from the ECU (DPO in modern nomenclature) and a ground. It is not necessary unless you are utilizing idle-up functionality such as with A/C, e-fan and so on. Each source requires an input.

Overall, the the BAC Valve needs one output (ECU to BAC) and an input (A/C compressor to ECU) to function correctly. If you're not too picky about needing individual idle-up settings for A/C, Power Steering, E-fan and so on, pipe all of them into the same AVI.

My 20B FC (Platinum Sport 2000 ECU) will have the BAC Valve on DPO #17 and the A/C compressor trigger a relay that passes 5v to AVI #3 when the A/C is on. Despite being advised by Haltech that putting 12v on the AVIs just results in the ECU seeing 5v, I decided to play it safe and give the whole thing a dedicated relay so it will see 5v per the manual. Relays are cheap, ECUs aren't.

 

The BAC can be very helpful if you want to run any accessories, and/or for cold and hot start ups. On a cold engine, I use it to bump idle to 1600RPM for 20 seconds, then have it drop to 1300, and finally when warmed up, it will cut off and the engine will idle at 1000RPM. Also on a hot engine, I use it to bump the idle to 1300 for 20 seconds to help stabilize right after starting.

 

The BAC used a PWM and 12V+, not ground. Use any PWM except #1. PWM1 is the only output that has the built-in pull-up necessary to run a tach. So do not use it for anything else unless you have to. At some point, if an alternate ignition is used, you'll need to drive the tach with the ECU.

The BAC function is handy, even if you're not using any other accessory. You also don't need to feed AVIs into the ECU for the various accessories as is mentioned. This is only done if you desire a higher than base idle speed when those functions are engaged. Haltech is also correct (IMAGINE THAT!) that feeding 12V into the analog inputs is fine and will result in no damage to the ECU.

On the TPS side, one of the sensors rides on a cam and the plunger maintains contact with the cam through the full range of movement. The other sensor's plunger is actuated by an arm that lifts off the plunger around half throttle. Use the sensor that rides on the cam. The other is not used. I've posted the pinout for the six pin connector on here and how to wire it. Search for it.

 

I used
Yellow-Black and green
Red-Brown and white
Blue Brown and Black

Thats should be wide, Don't need the BAC like you guys are saying I have no A/C
Asuming Ill keep it on beacuse I have the Intercooler line running into it.
And it's bunging it up.

If I dont need Narrow, simple build ill just leave it unwired...

Thanks again guys, almost ready for first start up.
need to re-wire Tac and boost controller, beacuse I no longer have Pressure sensor.

You did I found it while ago,
With the blacks and browns ect... Ground ... Power... signal. Great read, very usefull thanks alot.

 

where the **** was this info ever posted before!?!?

The entire time I've used PWM 1... time to rewire I guess...

AHHHHH!!!!

 

Yeah, My noobieness help contibute to "beefhole", lol Glad to troll.

Only thing really F-sharking my day is !!!!!

S5 CAS WIRING! MINE IS FARKING!
Red
Green
"PINKY YELLOW"
White and Black!

My haltech is
Brown
Green
Red
Blue

WTH@!$@!

If someone has stock S5 cas wiring colors posted can you toss me a link, I can figure out my haltech I have the Diagram, just want to wiring them up into same.

It's suppose to be
Red to Yellow (mines differnt Brown not yellow)
Green to Green
White to Red (not white pinky yellow)
White/black to Blue

 

"pink yellow" = white
brown = yellow

The wires discolor with age and heat. When in doubt ohm them back to the pins at the ECU. This will tell you exactly what you have.

 

... Technically Im correct with it Plus no reason for the CAS to change in any FC.

Now I need to look around for CAS readings blaaaaa, I got the grounds but that doesn't solve shITAKEEEE!