Its not nuts at all to me. After being laid off afew months ago my budget for toys got smaller too. Plus I should have a package from JTP soon.

 

Those are from AWR(awrracing.com) They are Alum. mounts, with a steel sleeve.

The toe control arms are from AWR as well. When paired with the spherical mount for the outboard trailing arm mount, you can:
1. Mount the trailing arm with a better roll center position,
2. Adjust your toe, with out pulling the rear wheel forward in the wheel well, when the car is lowered.
3. Less inward toe gain under compression
4. Easier point of adjustment, for on track toe changes.

Also running the AWR inboard individual camber links, so within minutes, I can make adjustments at the track, and all movement in the rear end is isolated to only suspension parts, rather than the deflection of stock rubber, or urethane mounts.

 

great info dave! its best to have a full understanding of the benefits of these kind of items before buying.

Im gonna look into pricing for the AWR...the fc is feeling kinda loose, i mean the bushing are over 20 yrs old... WTF???? So after the new turbo set up im deff gonna strengthen the car with a cage and these AWR products.

its funny because they dont even require cages at most events here in PHX even at PIR and Firebird Main lol, but who would pass up a deal on a competition spec cage with windsheid gussets for $1000? i wouldnt...

 

this would be an awesome dorifto fc.

http://networkedblogs.com/p23755193

AZ has some badass cars lol











700 whp on 91 octane lol. it does brake stands in 3rd and 4th ZOMG

 

Anyone rockin the MR2 p/s pump??? what should it feel like compared to a stock fc p/s pump?

Its wired up directly and works but seems like it has too much resistance...

 

dave has it. Shoot him a pm.

 

Dave did it, has had it for a long time

I did it, i like it

justin did it on the rx8

 

i dont really get the point though. You dudes seriously think youll notice the extra 1 or 2 hp?

 

word. My **** will be pretty much the same until i'm finished with everything else. Still need to get some seats, cage, remove sound deadening, bedliner the interior and get some more suspension stuff. Either this year or next year. No rush. I definately will be making my own front diff mount/reinforcing the rear subframe soon as my welder and argon gets here. I dont think it would hurt to seam weld the front crossmember either....

 

Well I did it because when i bought the car the guy removed the P/S and when the motor was built my lucky 7 they put a serpentine belt on so I didn't feel like shooting off the pulleys and finding stock ones.....so yeah mr2 pump got did. btw add me on xbox since nate hardly plays anymore

 

What extra HP? If anything less HP will make it to the tires. It's more about less clutter in the engine bay.

 

ha ha phams supra

 

im on pbm coils how can i get more neg camber up front? i adjusted the coils it helped a bit but its not the same camber adjust ment as my 240 was its slanted?diagonal?

 

Have you asked this question on their forum? I'm sure they have a mod that works well. I have a set of the competition coils too and I think you might be able to do a little drilling and grinding and get some more camber from the bottom mount.

 

Slot the coilovers where they bolt to the knuckle.




Kinda like this.

 

That seems like you would lose your camber setting from the bolt sliding out of it's position, no?

 

Yeh thats giving more positive, my coils came with a slotted top hole from the factory, pretty cool.

 

No, the knuckle is aligned with the stock holes in that pic. The new hole is the right one.

 

Sorta. I am running a serpentine belt, rather than the dual Alt/WP belts... because no matter how close of a "match set" you get, one or the other belt will stretch more than the other. I was throwing belts at track days, and the serpentine gets rid of this.

Also, intercooler piping is much easier to run. I'm running a Vmount, and it makes it easier to be able to mount my PS pump anywhere I want.

You can also use a GSL-SE bracket, to mount the stock pump, but I chose against that setup, because getting to the spark plugs(heating on stock heat range, running race plugs) was a pain in the ***, and you need to be able to get to them, without burning all the hair off your arms.

The feeling of the MR2 pump is good and linear... I've had no problem coming back from lock, or in any transitional response. The car and wheel feel predictable, which is nice.

 

Yeah, so less clutter. I was more so commenting on the fact that you won't free up HP because the electric pump and alternator don't run at 100% efficiency.

 

You know what does run at 100 percent efficiency?

An Ethiopian chasing an ice cream truck.

Unfortunately, there are no icecream trucks in ethiopia.

 

kyb gr2 struts actuall come slotted like that. I ran them on my saturn when I use to autocross. I had no problems with the bolt slideing out and loseing camber.

 

Use a lock washer on one side and a grip nut on the other...for peace of mind.

 

I run a manual steering rack and a welded diff haha.

 

As I posted earlier, I was looking into different spring rates for my FC. I emailed TEIN and they said I would need different springs for both front and rear. I want to go to and 8/6 rate, and I'm currently at a 6/5. I'm was wondering why I couldn't move the 6k spring from the front to the rear? The only difference is the length where the rear spring is 50mm longer than the front.

Can someone clear this up? I feel like they're just trying to make more money :/