how do people sort their toe issues??? we cannot get my front alignment straight with the current setup.

 

Yeh thats me?

 

toe out up front feels real good. helps keep it feel solid from my experience.


toe in for the rear to help with lateral traction

 

Toe out up front feels really weird at first but it does feel good. I haven't played with it at highway speeds to know how stable/unstable it is yet..... Couple more months..... It's driving me nuts.

 

yea thats why a drift car shouldnt be on a highway. anything other than 0* toe is gonna give funny tire wear, but that isnt going to matter on the track when those settings are beneficial to keeping the car in angle or more controllable for that matter.

 

i just did an alignment on a hunter laser rack and the "factory specs" were .16 out in the rear and .16 in in the front i think....isnt that wrong as ****?

 

I dunno.

Toe out up front feels a bit more twitchy, but i wouldnt say its "better" at all. Toe in out back does help with in drift grip, but not enough to really matter to anyone on here that isnt in FD.

If the extra twitch of front toe out is what you like get knuckles, they will give you more steering respose w/o killing your front tires.

 

I had to take a few cm out of my front tie rods, just take a bit off the end and you should be good.

 

spindles with just a small amount of toe out up front feels like butter. i had pretty straight toe and it was alright, toe in up front was whack.

 

I'm backing the toe off some. I want a little bit of toe out. I bought four rt615's specifically for front use so if i do eat a pair up i have another. I hope they are worth what i paid for em......

 

rt615 is the biz. i have a 225/40 and its way sticky, i might go to a 215 which will help with clearance.

i used 205/50 on 15's back in the day and it was enough for my kamikaze NA drift style.

 

Again, i'm pissed 595ss feddys are discontinued.....

How are they in the wet? Ski's?

 

wasn't really discontinued

they updated the tire with different attributes and simply changed the name from "ss595" to just straight "595"

 

^ what he said. and they are great in the rain, never had a issue on the mt. this weekend and it was pouring and i was running it at 90% by the end of the 4 hours

 

The rt's or 595's?

I know the 595's and general uhp's are freakin awesome all around tires but i've never used the rt's before.

 

happy st pattys day you *****




the 615's have a very specific tread patter (zig zag center) whichs probably helps divert water really well. We dont get much rain in Phx and i never drift in rain now that im turbo. i drive too aggressive for wet tarmac i guess

Id stay away from drifting in the rain, even though it makes the NA feel like a bridge port with a holset lol. Puddles will rip off BN, **** that. id rather rip off my bn due to a tap in a tandem, not ******* around in the rain.




guinness=fadedness

 

after reading 10 pages and having massive headache. Some answered my question and some didnt understand. I have NA fc and i know it doesnt make power but i want to just start drifting around doing donuts and etc. I know my clutch is worn out and im in market for new clutch kit... any suggestion? Oh, lsd... aint sure which one i should get 1.5 or 2.0 way lsd. Im looking into buying stance GR and it seem good review on 2nd gen forums... Anyone would like to chime in and help me to go on right path with my fc.

Thanks...

 

dont buy an aftermarket lsd for an NA diff. get a turbo diff and upgrade that.

for NA get

exhaust (RB manifold and 2.5 inch straight pipe all the way, **** a cat
weld the na diff
6 or 3 puck clutch exedy
lightweight 15inch wheels with a shitload of tire pressure

 

you dont need stance look into powered by max its what i run
my friends that had stance run pbm now...well all but one lol
if your budgeting a lil more megan tracks are actually really nice

excedy clutch id do a 6 puck.
pinion snubber=10-15bucks stiffer dif mount=60 bucks or box the stock one stock 1.3 way is enough to start on with good coilovers an clutch then exhaust intake yada yada


GET COIL OVERS ASAP before any power

werd on t2 dif na dif isnt worth it grab t2 dif an shaft then get a 2way they bite hard

i run lower pressure up front like 35 then like 45 rear sometimes 50

 

thanks. It seem i didnt mention that i need it to be "street legal" since i live in california. I want it be able to drive on freeway and etc for little awhile until i build better funding for trailer and i would build it more from there.

I think im gonna swap out drivetrain from turbo model. S4 t2 tran, rear end and half shaft and ill research more into power by max. clutch.... im willing pay good money for it... whats wrong with exedy twin clutch kit?

 

nothings wrong with it an coil overs are legal an u can dd them coil overs will make the biggest difference

 

The have HUGE tread blocks.



That's what had me curious about em. Falken says they grip good in the wet.

I returned my set anyway but will probably pick up another pair in a couple months. Nankangs are cheap and provide good wet weather traction. I will dailly this thing until i snag a beater 240 around the fall.......

 

That is a really big pic.... Sorry guys.


Anywho, my brother and I popped my welded diff in today and because i had the subframe out allready to remove the 2 way we put a pinion snubber in. We PRELOADED that **** to some degree. Anyone else do that?!

I'm confident the diff mount will hold up awesome to clutch kicks and shift locking. It can't move any further than the rubber mounts will allow, which is probably not at all. I need to fill the rear diff mounts with window weld soon.

Stiffens them up. Not as great as delrin but it's a cheap and quick that doesn't require the diff to be removed from the car. Worked **** on my old ff car's motor mounts.

 

i think this threads wondered off topic recently lol.


i am currently refocusing back to attacking my LCA fouling issues...

see my thread here for pics and mild explanation:
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...-green-65.html

But the overall question I have is what have poeple done o teh LCA's to get that extra lock and remove the fouling issues. I think I may have to go back to using a 17" up front again, but none the less i neeeed to change something as the cars nose slows down so much when the wheels rub the LCA... and not to mention my brake calipers are currently acting as bumpstops!

any advice or pics would be greatly recieved!!!

 

slidealliance (chase?) runs extended lower ball joints. He's also running 18x12 or some crazy *** front wheel like that on his white car. Pm him.

If you push the knuckle away from the control arm it also will push the rim lip further down where the lca tapers thus giving you more room.

There are guys out there now making their own lca's to allow for more lock clearance and bigger wheels so look foward to seeing those in the future.


If you wanted to, you could cut your lca out where it rubs and add bracing. Dont know much about welding cast aluminum so you should look into that but if it works, that would be the easy solution if you want to keep your wheels/offset.


Lower your car plz!