Yeah a t2 trans is a one man job, and a t56 is a two man job haha.

 

but thats also not to say that others dont have problems...really depends on the craftsmanship, engineering, placement, etc of the setup. if you have the oil coolers small and in a funny position that they get no air...then of course you will have problems

stock bumpers are also horrible for dual oil coolers ;P

 

That quote was in reference to road course guys who actually go fast enough to need their brakes to stay cool.

 

I wasn't so worried about the brake cooling part. I was more worried about the loss in oil pressure and stress on the pump.

 

Damn that twin set up is sexy. I wonder how much acually cooling the duals give you. And specially with drifting because the airflow is weird when your driving sideways. lol

 

I was going to quote with "no ****, sherlock" but that works too.

I had no idea brake ducts were used for cooling brakes in high stress environments...like road racing or time attack or some touge mayhem, braking on steep grades where brake fade is a bad thing....**** like that. Because i'm a fanboy who got into cars after watching tokyo drift and bought a drift car to be like that orange one in the movie and flip on my roof and blow up and ****..... I just didn't want to drag out a ******* post and waste bandwidth. Anyone with an ounce of logic KNOWS what brake ducts are for... Again, in his case, he can ignore the ****. Quit trolling for fights or get the **** out. Seriously.

Setup inquiry:

Has anyone had any issues with maxing out your sublink an having your subframe sit crooked? I tested out a theory last weekend and found that one side of my car was sitting higher than the other. I measured my springs (no weight on them), measured my perch to top mount and came up equal on both sides in the rear. With the car hunkered down in road reflector removal mode parked every which way in different locations in my neighboorhood, My passenger side sat higher. The difference left to right, back to front with the rear raised up about 3" was pretty much nil. I accounted for surface variations SPECIFICALLY by checking height by driving, parking, driving, parking, full lock left, parking, full lock right, parking. Burned up a 1/4 tank of gas. Lol. I'm thinking it's a combination of the sublink being offset and running a preloaded pinion snubber.

I'm sitting a close to zero camber (eyeballed) and a jack WILL NOT fit under my diff. Um, yeah. Anyone run into this problem? It sucks. I can deal with it if i have to but i'm weary about it.

 

Car DID get sandwhiched between a semi and gaurdrail. Damage seemed miniman. It did have s5 sways on and the passenger side end link was snapped. The wheel was damaged a bit but still held air. I mean, that's the story. The dai/nitto cellphone holder that was in the car that says "get ir straight, drive sideways" leads me to believe the ******* p.o. one wheel wondered into a k rail or a parked truck....

It could very well be a bent subframe. The toe links are straight, the subframe looks straight, didn't notice any metal stress symptoms (freshly chipped paint).... I'm hoping at the most it's an issue with too much sublink shortening and my pinion snubber.... Yeah, i'll take it to napa next month and have em toss it on the rack. Good looking out.

 

I have the same problem with my car. It doesn't make sense. The only thing I can think of is the outer subframe bushing are distorted differently make it twist.

 

i'm running the FD oil pressure regulator.. other than that no other upgrades to the oiling system

 

Which because of it's 100psi bypass rating probably shouldn't be used on a street fc right?

I'm basically wondering if I can successfully run duals with no other oil system mods street/track use.

 

i've seen many FD's running dual setrabs on the street with no problems... so i'd say go for it.

 

got a question about sway bars?

what are you guys running? any input on what to lookout for and what to avoid? thanks.

 

not running any, but thinking about trying to get some to work for more super entries... will update u at a later time..

 

my car is by no means going to be a dd.. so its all good. im probably going to buy megan tracks. theres a gb on zilvia. i can get em for 835 and i just wanted to know if upgrading to a stiffer sway bar would do anything or if i should take them out. care to explain to me what the advantages and disadvantages of thicker ones or not running any? thanks

 

More grip if you pop the rear off. The fronts are removed usually because people hit them when they upgrade knuckles for more angle, I believe. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Instead of taking them off, just take out one of the bolts on either side. That will disable it, so the car will act like it's not there. If you like then take the other out. If not, or you're going to drive it home after the event, just through the bolt back in.

 

you mean grip as in more control while sliding? or more grip in terms of gripping? is there any other notable mods i should do like poly bushings? suspension is the first thing im going to upgrade and im going to make sure i do it the right way, since suspension is more important than anything else..

also dumb ? why is it good if you disable abs?

 

oh and i just read that some fc’s have dtss?? what years or model have em? thanks.

 

ALL of them

 

More control while sliding/initiating. And do DTSS eliminators, they're like $50.

 

okay, thankd for clearing that up.. and yeah, i will def be buying some eliminators. ill search and see whats worked best for everyone when i get home from work!

 

disabling abs is more of a personal preference but some will argue it stops you faster (if you know how to brake non-abs properly). pedal feel is a little more consistent and "better" to some. try it out and see if you like the feel better. my FC doesn't have abs but on most cars you can just pull a fuse and disable it. thats how I did my impreza (because the abs was warping brake rotors so got fed up with it).

 

thank you for the input. i will try this.

 

HELP NEEDED
I just purchased my series 4 fc last week and plan to have it purely for drift and grip racing, i need some help with the immediate modifacations i need to do so i have easy drifting in 2 weeks time and also future modifications for grip and drift, the car currently has

- knight sports turbo for i think series 5 but its upgraded to4 internals
- pwr intercooler
-k&n air filter and piping
- microtech mt8 comp
-walboro fuel pump
- upgraded pedders suspension (still a bit pooey)
- $ rebuilt engine 500km old
- 2 stage boost controller
- 2x 12a injectors
- 3 inch exhaust
thank you for any help

 

for drifting purposes suspension is wayyy more important than the power that your motor makes. From what I understand, its bad to learn on a boosted motor.\

to start off in drifting youll def need a good set of coilovers and a lsd or a welded, basically what slide alliance said above

 

oop fogot to list those too. thanks for the reminder too. i need to buy some this week..

oh and you dont need to go get an allignment afterwards do you? it doesnt screw with the rear toe or caster does it?