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The OFFICIAL drift setup thread

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Old 12-11-09, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by USS CJ
yeah but why would you want to ruin a real diff by making it welded lol.
I had a factory clutch type overheat and wear out while I was driving once. It kinda sucked... I pulled the ebrake to initiate and instead of initiating like it had the last 20 times at that same corner that same day, the car just went straight. The car just did one wheel burnouts the rest of the day after that.

Weldeds do the same **** every time.
Old 12-11-09, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Risky Devil
I heard you can run both

Bashing the floor pan will get you more camber with the single adjuster bar.

It seems the indiv. adjuster are the way to go, more accurate and precise.

Anyone have any luck with running both, that can chime in?
i run both and use the single for most of the adjustment.. then dial in the individual ones...
Old 12-11-09, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by J.T.P.
i run both and use the single for most of the adjustment.. then dial in the individual ones...
What do you dial, 1-800-AWE-SOME?

Last edited by J.T.P.; 12-11-09 at 10:34 PM.
Old 12-11-09, 10:34 PM
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exactly!
Old 12-11-09, 11:17 PM
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Does anyone have any input on the super now links? They go were the indiv. adjusters would go but there just solid links no adjustment (link to part http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Supe...C3S-RX-7-50168 )
Old 12-12-09, 03:49 AM
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What are your thoughts on strut bars?
Old 12-12-09, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dkwasherexd
I want the clutch type lsd for the purpose of gutting the internals of the lsd, so I can weld the diff. I did this on the ae86 and it worked great. gutted out the clutch plates and everything inside the diff, and just welded where the stub axles housing to the diff casing. Imagine a welded t2 diff. No more fear..
Im running a Full Race welded T2 diff. My bro has a Forrest/Full Race welded T2 diff. Mine is gutted and ****, my bros was done in like 5 minutes.

**** feels good. i like the different pinion ratio compared to the non turbo pinion.
Do it!!!!!!
Old 12-12-09, 04:32 PM
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You dudes should get real LSDs!
Old 12-12-09, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by fcnoevil
Does anyone have any input on the super now links? They go were the indiv. adjusters would go but there just solid links no adjustment (link to part http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Supe...C3S-RX-7-50168 )
It's my oppinion, that having adjustment, is better than NOT having adjustment, as you may want to add/remove camber, depending on track conditions/layout/alignment...

Kinch: Strut bars can come in handy, if you have no other chassis stiffening mods, such as a cage, chassis gusseting, stitch welding, etc... Just make sure the parts you get, are doing what they are supposed to be, rather than just looking the part. Most "adjustable" strut bars will not have the torsional strength to actually stiffen the chassis. Do your research!

CJ: Welded diffs are good for doing 1st and 2nd gear donuts, but not for anything high speed... I'm sure these guys will figure out the worth of a ENGINEERED LSD, if they "stick around" long enough.
Old 12-12-09, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by davedge
It's my oppinion, that having adjustment, is better than NOT having adjustment, as you may want to add/remove camber, depending on track conditions/layout/alignment...

Kinch: Strut bars can come in handy, if you have no other chassis stiffening mods, such as a cage, chassis gusseting, stitch welding, etc... Just make sure the parts you get, are doing what they are supposed to be, rather than just looking the part. Most "adjustable" strut bars will not have the torsional strength to actually stiffen the chassis. Do your research!

CJ: Welded diffs are good for doing 1st and 2nd gear donuts, but not for anything high speed... I'm sure these guys will figure out the worth of a ENGINEERED LSD, if they "stick around" long enough.
the camber will be adjusted with the center link... basically it simplfies camber adjustment so instead of adjusting 3 things you only adjust one. i guess if for some reason the camber differs from side to side the individuals are good (answered my own question lol)
Old 12-12-09, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by J.T.P.
you're pretty much on the money.. everything you mentioned adds to rear traction, but the right amount of everything, not too much, not too little.

and one final note... try taking off your sway bars... but only at the track you need them for daily driving... otherwise things can get loose at higher speeds..


would you recommend taking the front and rear sway bar off an FD for drifting?
Old 12-12-09, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by davedge
CJ: Welded diffs are good for doing 1st and 2nd gear donuts, but not for anything high speed... I'm sure these guys will figure out the worth of a ENGINEERED LSD, if they "stick around" long enough.

Aaron Losey is still running a welded diff in his LS1 s13 and says he actually prefers them in some situations over a clutch type lsd. And his events are almost always high speed, he seems to do pretty well in competition.


Don't know if the same thing translates to an FC though seeing as how the overall design of the car is different.
Old 12-12-09, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by afro88
Aaron Losey is still running a welded diff in his LS1 s13 and says he actually prefers them in some situations over a clutch type lsd. And his events are almost always high speed, he seems to do pretty well in competition.


Don't know if the same thing translates to an FC though seeing as how the overall design of the car is different.
Yes, Aaron is the exception. Not the rule.

He does well because hes an awesome driver lol. I dont care what any of you do, but a real LSD is a pantload better than having a diff thats 100% locked all the time.
Old 12-12-09, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by fdfanatic
would you recommend taking the front and rear sway bar off an FD for drifting?
yes! start off with the rear, see how it feels... then try the front... i do know of several people that drift fd's that do not run sways...

Originally Posted by fcnoevil
the camber will be adjusted with the center link... basically it simplfies camber adjustment so instead of adjusting 3 things you only adjust one. i guess if for some reason the camber differs from side to side the individuals are good (answered my own question lol)
usually the camber does vary from side to side.. therefore the individual adjusters are valuable.. also depending on track layout... i.e. Irwindale

Originally Posted by afro88
Aaron Losey is still running a welded diff in his LS1 s13 and says he actually prefers them in some situations over a clutch type lsd. And his events are almost always high speed, he seems to do pretty well in competition.
Don't know if the same thing translates to an FC though seeing as how the overall design of the car is different.
there are a couple pro's the run welded diff's as well...

rhy's millen in his solstice.. they also had on in dai's gto... white boy john also runs one in his f22 powered corolla... we're not saying that it won't work, but there are obviously "better" options..

basically when you drive a car with a well setup diff and then drive one with a welded... you'll feel the difference.
Old 12-12-09, 09:17 PM
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Also be careful with LOW cars running no rear camber, it would be wise to only use stock, mazdacomp or bearings as the individual adjusters can cause binding issues with stiffer bushings.
Old 12-12-09, 10:09 PM
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I do like an aggressive clutch type diff more than a welded (I had a kaaz 2way in my old ae86), I was just throwing examples out there. I am running a welded right now but when I switch to a T2 drivetrain I plan on going with a clutch type.

Not sure on a 2way or 1.5 though.
Old 12-13-09, 01:13 AM
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Out of all the diff options OS Giken takes the cake IMO. I have driven on Kazz, Tomei welded and some others -just found the OS unit smoother and more predictable. I'm also a fan of the 1.5 way in the FC
Old 12-13-09, 01:21 AM
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Thanks for the strut bar reply, I already have front and rears, was debating whether or not to keep them. What do you guys do for interior stuff: Seat, steering wheels, etc?
Old 12-13-09, 01:27 AM
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I've also heard that the OS unit is one of the best out there, so that's the one I've been looking at. I've had a KAAZ before and want to try something different.

That's all hearsay though. Justin, Dave, and CJ (as well as a few others) all have first hand experience so I think their advice is pretty crucial to this thread.
Old 12-13-09, 03:31 AM
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Leave me out of it.

Just listen to JTP dudes.
Old 12-13-09, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by sunburn
Out of all the diff options OS Giken takes the cake IMO. I have driven on Kazz, Tomei welded and some others -just found the OS unit smoother and more predictable. I'm also a fan of the 1.5 way in the FC
I'm also a fan of the OS-Giken super lock diffs.. the ability to tune it is amazing, from initial torque setting to lock timing it's amazing... i played around with the OS diff alot in 08 during the formula d season and found a setting that's pretty damn good.. and i think it definitely improved my driving by the end of the season. (i'm not just saying this because the sponsor me either.. lol) it's definitely the best diff i've ever driven on(driven mazdaspeed, tomei, kaaz, welded)

i'm currently also running a OS 1.5 although i have had it setup as a 2way, but feel the 1.5 is much faster through higher speed courses

Originally Posted by afro88
I've also heard that the OS unit is one of the best out there, so that's the one I've been looking at. I've had a KAAZ before and want to try something different.

That's all hearsay though. Justin, Dave, and CJ (as well as a few others) all have first hand experience so I think their advice is pretty crucial to this thread.
see above!
Old 12-13-09, 05:49 PM
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i have a tomei trax 2-way. i really like it; its not super clunky but engages really firmly. pretty quiet, too.
Old 12-13-09, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by oilcover
i have a tomei trax 2-way. i really like it; its not super clunky but engages really firmly. pretty quiet, too.
Tomei is basically a rebadged Kaaz, but to a different spec for BAT, mostly through the addition of plates for each application...

Usually pretty clunky, so that's interesting...
Old 12-13-09, 07:44 PM
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after using kaaz oil in it, I switched to Shell Rotella 80/90 and that non synthetic ford friction modifier and it made it a lot quieter.
Old 12-13-09, 09:30 PM
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ATS deftforce is the jambox dudes.


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