The outside end of the inner tie rod is the same thread pitch, so you can run s-chassis tie rod ends. However the inner section that screws into the rack is a completely different pitch, it won't work. I tried it.

 

Ah, makes sense. There goes that idea.

 

IDK about u guys but I'd rather bend/break an inner tie rod than mess up the steering rack or a modded LCA.

 

If you plan to drift competitively at some point and realize that bending a tie rod from the easiest tap into another car can cost you X amount of dollars and your weekend you'd prefer them being a little stronger than stock.

But the main point is having them extended

 

This was my solution to no more bent inner's and outter
Can't bealive they wrrent butter lol
Oem inner. 240sx outters Teal knukles
My week end won't 've over aslong as autozones/O'Reillys around

 

^ Nice car. Didn't think I liked battles on an FC until now!

 

How do you like those knuckles?

Been thinking about picking them up since they're so damn cheap

 

^^ Thank you I taught it was hella rugged it's improved a lot..but yea hot pink battles rahter than overplayed white lolIdk if thia makes any sense but wile parking with other knuckles I would have to release the wheel abit while doing a full lock U turn because the wheels felt alitle stressed
But with these they feel smooth. Specially since the pick up point for the outter (I'm pretty Damn low too)rods are low their not stressing the rack nor. Applying pressure on the inner rod that causes them to bend
But for dd they feel like oem no steering wheel pulls on bumps

 

And what about the steering ratio?

I think you might have just convinced me to pick these up haha

 

well i get 530degrees of the steering wheel till i lock( 1 full turn plus another half turn of the wheel till its locked) i know its not the right way to meassure ratio but i havent measure my anlgle ill try to do so this sunday)
i have modiffied lower control arms to clear my 10.5 wheels for extra angle. mazda trix inner rack spacer with 1' extended ball joint. front inner wheels wells are cut to clear and so are the rears wells

ah man im not their sells person but im one of only one giving my personal info.
i mean everything looked to bolt up with ease and replaceing parts for the kit did not look expensive if a misfortune wheres to happen..
some like ackerman to slow them down through transitions and some of us just like to have ***** to just throttle it out. lol

above all im satisfied with my upgrade....

 

Oh! How's the Ackerman?

I'm planning to run teal knuckles, abercrombie rack spacers, and godspeed tie rod ends(won them in a contest), Abercrombie ball joints with the bump stops because it's a street car, so I'm going to run a sway bar, and so minimal cutting if any. Also my fronts will be ~9.5 +0-5ish


Hoping the set up allows for good angle, and not alot of rubbing inner ****.

 

if i get my steel braided lines in and get to sit my car back to the floor this sunday ill have it down for ya

but like i said whiile makeing U turns i didnt have to let my steering wheel go because the following wheel wasnt being draged.


no megans wont work they too robust and will rubb on the rotor thats why you need oem s13 ends
sell your megans to cover .25 of the knuckles lol
shiiieee i even made a for sale thread to sell my new mazdatrix ends cus i didnt need them
bumb stop what are a NANCY LOL jk for the dd... understandable....

 

What exactly is wrong with the tie rod ends?

 

nothings wrong with the megans their actually good quality

teals designed their knuckle to fit oem s13

 

What about the Mazdatrix super angle kit? And what does bump steer do? Noob question I know...

 

All the Mazdatrix kit does is allow the rack to travel farther, giving you like 5* of extra angle..

Bump steer is basically exactly what it sounds like. It's that feeling you get when your wheels/steering wheel jolt when you hit bumps, cracks etc.. Suspension geometry gets all fucked and puts the tie rods at a shitty stressed angle when you lower your car. The bump steer kit allows you to set them back to a reasonable angle..


Oh yeah, and Abercrombie makes the same kit basically. But it's cheaper!

 

Yea I got abercrombies stuff minus the tierods, **** is a Legit setup

 

You just running his rack spacers and knuckles? I got rack spacers and supernow rod ends that i still gotta install. But i think im gonna go with JTP knuckles. Although i dont even know if ambercrombies knuckles would work with the supernow rod ends

 

Yea u bougt oops double post!

 

Yea u bought ur ends from me lol, anyways zak suggests that you run longer ends. I think Justin runs super nows tho

 

Ehh. Not really. I think you're thinking about the affects of increased scrub radius.

Longacre Racing Online -- Tech Article "Bump Steer "

 

Yeah, I'm wrong.

Kinda the same concept I guess, I just understood it wrong the first time I learned up about it. Nice little video though

 

Ya i just talked to zak and he said his knuckels would work. I really wanna get jtp knuckles but the price of abercrombie is really nice.. plus hes local to me. lol hard decision

 

Wtf is up with my E brake?

I just replaced my pads/rotors, and brakes feel great, but when I brake tap/rip it, it just slows me down a bit. And believe me, I yank it with a grand might.

I adjusted the cable fairly recently, but now when I try to adjust it, the cable just spins with the adjustment nut, and binds up.


Wtf?

 

push in your clutch when you pull it.


no for real though, did you adjust the calipers? compress the calipers as much as possible(I use a c clamp) then spin the piston as tight as you can(I use needle nose pliers, but there is a tool for it) get it to fit the pads and the rotor. loosen up the cable a bunch before doing this. then tighten the cable back up. there is also a good chance your cable is super stretched.

also make sure your rotors and pads dont have grease on them.