Drifting Discuss Drifting and drifting techniques here.

The OFFICIAL drift setup thread

Old May 22, 2011 | 06:09 AM
  #1051  
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my drift setup = stock FC. throw on spindles. slam it to the ground. add big *** wheels and spacers, and smoke tires.

**** over analyzing ****. drive your car, and learn for yourself.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 03:41 PM
  #1052  
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^word. I was just worried about camber because of tire wear when I daily. guess I'll just flip tires every now and then and run whatever my adjustable sub link takes out. lol.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 06:52 PM
  #1053  
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Originally Posted by red92vr4buckey
my drift setup = stock FC. throw on spindles. slam it to the ground. add big *** wheels and spacers, and smoke tires.

**** over analyzing ****. drive your car, and learn for yourself.
spindles are next shimmed tie rods for now
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Old May 31, 2011 | 11:52 AM
  #1054  
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I have an 87 with a sunroof. I'm using Bride seat mounts and sliders with Recaro SPD seats (bottom mount) and I have to pop the sunroof to sit in it comfortably with my helmet on (I'm only 5'9") How do I get my seat to mount lower??
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Old May 31, 2011 | 03:14 PM
  #1055  
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Cut and weld
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Old May 31, 2011 | 03:52 PM
  #1056  
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^^^ You mean cut the seat mount and weld it lower??
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 02:04 AM
  #1057  
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I need a new clutch, since my RacingBeat seems to already be burned up after 2 years. Not looking to get into anything crazy just something that will last me on the track and on the street. Not putting down any kinda power since a S4 NA, and don't want to spend buckets of money on it since the car is only DD status for another two years until I can build it.

Looking at the OEM Exedy or Stage 1. Other suggestions?
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 07:11 AM
  #1058  
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I've used SPEC clutches on ALOT of my cars, but to be honest you have to use a Stage 3 or better. All the cars I have installed Stage 1-2's in have only lasted a year or so :/

But they certainly are a great price!
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 01:06 PM
  #1059  
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I loved my spec stage 3 even though I blew the rivets out of the clutch pack.

80k of daily driving and lots of clutch kicks kill the spring pack before the surface wore down.
It still shifted after 1/2 of the rivets and one spring was gone.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 01:34 PM
  #1060  
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Blew my motor at East Coast Bash. Car was running about 10 degrees too hot all day. I only run 8psi of boost. I was at about 6500 rpm and the whole car started shaking then a puff of white smoke from under the hood and it was done. Any opinions? words of wisdom? sympathies?

I'm going to have the motor pulled by Wednesday and apart before the end of the week.

Contemplating if I should rebuild this rotary or go piston. Not sure what to do right now, just don't want to be out for the rest of the season.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 03:18 PM
  #1061  
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Originally Posted by RXILVER7
Blew my motor at East Coast Bash. Car was running about 10 degrees too hot all day. I only run 8psi of boost. I was at about 6500 rpm and the whole car started shaking then a puff of white smoke from under the hood and it was done. Any opinions? words of wisdom? sympathies?

I'm going to have the motor pulled by Wednesday and apart before the end of the week.

Contemplating if I should rebuild this rotary or go piston. Not sure what to do right now, just don't want to be out for the rest of the season.
Sorry to hear about the motor. Take the one from the FD
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 03:22 PM
  #1062  
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
I loved my spec stage 3 even though I blew the rivets out of the clutch pack.

80k of daily driving and lots of clutch kicks kill the spring pack before the surface wore down.
It still shifted after 1/2 of the rivets and one spring was gone.
I've heard mixed reviews about Spec. And it's just an NA and is drifted less then ten times a year so that a Stage 3 (and the price seems kinda excessive, just don't want to spend more than I have to)
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 03:23 PM
  #1063  
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Originally Posted by K!NCH
Sorry to hear about the motor. Take the one from the FD
I honestly considered it yesterday, but I think the 500hp motor should stay in that car. I have a ton of 13b-rew parts sitting around from other engines and may try to budget rebuild this motor with those parts included to get it back on the track. Seems like a disaster waiting to happen though.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 03:47 PM
  #1064  
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Originally Posted by RXILVER7
I honestly considered it yesterday, but I think the 500hp motor should stay in that car. I have a ton of 13b-rew parts sitting around from other engines and may try to budget rebuild this motor with those parts included to get it back on the track. Seems like a disaster waiting to happen though.
Well then finish up the FD and drive that around. Or do a sweet NA build and make the FC bullet proof.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 03:59 PM
  #1065  
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Originally Posted by K!NCH
Well then finish up the FD and drive that around. Or do a sweet NA build and make the FC bullet proof.
I did honestly consider a NA 20b build for a second there, but it would be by far the most expensive option. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I guess it all depends on how much is destroyed. If it's just a couple coolant seals, then I'll rebuild it. If I cracked irons, warped housings and other stuff then I'll consider a swap. I have a friend who is actually a corvette expert and very experienced with LS motors so it might be an option, but I kinda feel bad about it.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 04:45 PM
  #1066  
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rebuild it and get real engine management and a good tune
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 08:14 PM
  #1067  
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Originally Posted by vosko
rebuild it and get real engine management and a good tune
I know you're probably right. I have a rotating assembly and rotor housings for a 3rd gen that are in great shape I can use. I guess I'm somewhat disenfranchised because thats the third motor for that car and the other car has been through two. I'm just getting tired of rebuilding rotaries. Gotta make sure the turbo is ok too. Thats a big factor in my decision.

I like the microtech in my car, but I do need some better tuning if I stay rotary. I noticed it starting to break up at 7000rpm at the last D-UP event.
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Old Jun 28, 2011 | 06:41 AM
  #1068  
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i didn't know it had a microtech in it. i assumed it was an rtek etc. get it fixed and let kahren tune it
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 02:22 PM
  #1069  
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What is the least HP number to drift?
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 04:29 PM
  #1070  
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Originally Posted by JOOSTIN!
What is the least HP number to drift?
Well seeing as a stock AE86 can do it, and they have like 100whp there ya go. I do just fine in my NA S4 with a full exhaust, yes more power would make it easier/actually being able to transfer.

But if you're planning on competing in like Pro-Am or something I'd say at least 300? I'm sure some other people will chime in.
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 04:30 PM
  #1071  
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75 lol. i know ppl who are good withsingle cam s13s, sr5 ae86's, and na s4 fc's. power becouse a issue when u want tobe competitive butif ur just trying to have fun it doesntmatter.


Originally Posted by JOOSTIN!
What is the least HP number to drift?
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 04:47 PM
  #1072  
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my miata has 80 hp

hp doesn't matter much
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Old Jul 7, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #1073  
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Originally Posted by SlideAlliance
Just remember if it's rich it won't explode as easily.......normally


oh and don't skimp out on anything, get all new springs and seals and full gasket kit and you'll have a better shot of not blowing it up while tuning
this is extremely true.

For one of the best rebuild kits available contact Laura @ Rotary Aviation. My Rotary Aviation Super Seal Kit withstood more than i ever thought any rotary ever could. my injectors failed. my fuel pump died. my fuel pressure dropped to almost zero after i got it tuned, and took it drifting. 8500rpm rev limit, and zero fuel @ 14psi is a bad mix.

my tune is super rich, and breaks up at high rpm. i need to go through it again with my tuner but it's better to eat gas, and plugs than waste time pulling/building motors.
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 07:17 PM
  #1074  
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i want to bang off on 8500..
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 10:48 PM
  #1075  
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Originally Posted by K!NCH
Or do a sweet NA build and make the FC bullet proof.
this needs to go home...
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