yea, i been following Howard Coleman's on the 3rd gen section... old me on the water inj. Well im going to run GM coils since im picking up a haltech for the fd real soon... so i think it should be fine...

well right now i have to reformulate my whole set up.. originally i was planning to go with a garret gt35r, but due to not enough money, i plan on running the stock twins and pushing them to 14 psi on the RE. So i have to see how i should go about setting up the water inj on this set up..

 

d585 coils

 

Think these will work?

 

goddamn

 

Those suck hahaha just playin should be good, I'm runnin one on my motor but I have a distributor and 8 cyls haha

 

Okay so, I have a 91 N/A FC...
and i have a MazdaSpeed 2way in the Turbo pumpkin.

So my question is, can i swap the 2way over into the N/A pumpkin by simply swapping the final gears? Or is there more modifications i have to do?

Thanks guys.

 

uber info. learned alot thanks

 

I'm gonna say no. You can probably just swap the pinion flange for the NA one and install the complete diff.

 

True... i have done that before. Need a bad *** impact though...


On another note Cosmo irons suck... Highly doubt that motor will stay together anything over 450hp. it will crack at the dowel pin on the top right, from the front of the car.

Sure they have huge ports but the irons are ****. compare it to an fd Iron. fd is way bigger.

they do have a nice intake manifold though. especially when polished

 

what pinion flange?

 

the flange that the driveshaft bolts to. its a huge nut but get that off and pull that off the shaft. then place the NA flange on. impact it on

Then you can run a T2 diff with a NA driveshaft.

 

i also thought the half-shafts bolted up different too?

 

Cosmo irons kick ***, FD owners cry when they see my ports. My engine has thicker dowel castings than most FC motors and has been machined for 4 extra dowels. You've probably never even held a 13b-re iron is your hands yet think your opinion really matters to people who have. You need to read more and stop posting your incorrect opinions out of jealousy rather than facts. There's a reason why 13b-re motors have made more whp than 13b-rew's have for a given lb-ft of air.

Keep being different by doing the same retarded drift trends that everyone else does.

Thanks for playing but you're still a tool in my eyes.

 

Dude you have no idea... but yea i have compared fd and cosmo irons. The Fd iron is way thicker.

i have seen cosmo's crack at the top right dowel pin when pushing more than 400hp.


jealous. ha... go suck a dick.

its funny how youve made all these posts about angle mods and you car doesnt even run.
haha and youre front wheels bind up front hitting.

i have yet to see an action shot of you driving...

you think im some fanboy, that i browse the internet looking for knowledge. Dude i receive knowledge from first hand experience. Yea ive never owned a cosmo motor but i have seen them crack.

 

I've seen giraffes touching bonars at the zoo. Big deal. Now if we could convert horsepower to giraffepower, i'd be onto something here.

Where is CJ? He'd settle this without any tech talk at all.

 

Umm we were making over 900whp and running 40psi of boost on our drag car with cosmo irons a few years ago. They'd crack every once in a while, but not really any different from any other housings. Stuff only breaks if detonation occurs. If you detonate a motor hard and it doesn't crack the housing, it'll shear the dowel pins haha.

 

Quick question, has anybody ran individual rear camber adjusters and poly trailing arm bushings? I have been told that adjustment may be limited due to the stiffness of the poly bushings ???? Thanks.

 

Answered my own question.... Carry on. haha.

 

I just bought a haltech E8 for my gold car. Ive been told that i can run the factory tps, air temp and map sensor.. But, also heard that I need a haltech TPS, air temp and 3bar map...
What route should I go?? What sensors are you guys running?

 

get haltech sensors..

 

GM 3 bar MAP

you can use the stock tps and temp sensor but GM water temp has a better plug than stock FC.

air temp is super easy, dosent matter what wire goes to which.

Dude youre gonna love haltech with stock turbo. im making a ton of power with stock turbo and E6k. Enough to spin 275's easily... neg camber tho.

 

dk sell me the e8

 

Factory number of dowel pins or machined for extra? Just wondering.

 

Haha its funny you say this cause I know how you talk shii & now Im gonna flame you son...

Well lets see if Cosmo's were such bad engines or have bad irons rather... then why do alot of people run cosmo motors for drag, road racing, auto X, and even just for street over the T2?

And lets not forget the person I bought my engine from made 420hp on pump gas with that 62-1 your brother has and all that old fuel set up and E6k... Hmm I wonder why he didnt stick with his T2 motor back then let alone rotaries to this day Can you answer that atleast?

Like stated in this thread the irons only crack when serious detonation occurs... That means any rotary including yours little buddy. Hmm well detonation, thats why mine craked... this would have never happened if I didnt trust that CHUMP SHIESTER full of excuses *&^$#% with his word let alone my car and fresh rebuilt engine... Also let him know how PATHETIC he still is for me since he still wont answer his phone... Thanx ahahaha

So again: I was running a pos F10x (weak. I still question myself on that purchase) Distributer
A semi decent base tune
.7 Bar boost

Ontop of that he cross threaded a pipe thread fitting into the iron (that was used on the turbo feed) and cross threaded a metric fitting with a **** load of teflon tape into my turbo. Shall i bring it over to show you im not bullshitting? And that *** told me to crank the boost to 1.2Bar. Haha My car would have blown up. Then you tell me he says he doesnt even tune cars with factory fuel lines (hard lines from tank to filter). What a joke...

Look up Speed Machine's Bridge RE... If im not mistaken they made 750hp on that motor spraying nitrous. Look in your old magazines cause you were drooling over that setup back in the day. Oh and werent you a couple months back gonna tryn buy a cosmo from CHUMP SHIESTER or make payments to get one. 3k, $2800, $2600 whatever the price for a stock / completely ghetto polished manifold cosmo with that chucky cheese rust box T04E turbo setup?

But hey hes been drag racing and building engines for years and knows rotaries like the back of his hand but completely ***** me over as a friend and a customer. hhmmmm

Oh and follow his word to stud your engine (that stock cosmo your gonna buy for a rediculous price and build, and have Mr. Alzheimer tune) cause you'll be consistently running 25+ lbs of boost when drifting here on that drag drift track we have out here and dailying your ride.

Dont listen to me though. Im just a re-tard who doesnt ever know what im talking about nor have any experience dealing with rotaries thru countless setups and fails etc. haha

Guess you'll also hide behind the fact I introduced your brother and you to the performance side of the rotary game... You know all my old hand me down parts your running in your cars today.
So read carefully... When Aaron & Jay are done putting back together and dynoing my shitty crack happy ironed COSMO that they anticipate around 500whp on E85 supporting mods etc etc, Lemme know when you would like to try and dominate my setup outside of drifting... I'll be sure to post a video of your contest.

Bottom line its all about a good precise build and tune whether a motor is gonna make or break over 450hp. So your setup vs. my setup = ignorant embarrassing failure for you. You know me every time it breaks it comes back with new hott shii and always capable of making more power.

Thats it... My Rant & Rave is done... Video's to be posted after the 1st of Aug...

Old Setup... New setup in progress of being built...

 

Lulz.