The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
gonna agree with the fluid change as i have put low dollar fluid in my diff and it peg legged bad. try some good stuff with lsd additive in it or add it your self. i believe the gm stuff works well but i havent tried it myself
I'll try...
Well, what else would you like to know?
You're still n/a right? Me too.
How do you like to drive? Can you describe in detail things you like and things you dont like about your setup?
Talk about how your car feels. Do you know what your front end is doing? Do you know what the back end is doing?
Any planned parts you want in the near future?
I mean, i can talk all day about what i've done to my car and why it works for me but that's not going to help YOU.....
Who's to say you couldn't hop in anyones car in here and drive it with your own personal style and technique?
You're still n/a right? Me too.
How do you like to drive? Can you describe in detail things you like and things you dont like about your setup?
Talk about how your car feels. Do you know what your front end is doing? Do you know what the back end is doing?
Any planned parts you want in the near future?
I mean, i can talk all day about what i've done to my car and why it works for me but that's not going to help YOU.....
Who's to say you couldn't hop in anyones car in here and drive it with your own personal style and technique?
Suspension:
Tanabe GF210(eh) (3kg/R2.5kg)
Stock angle
Camber -1.2F/-0.8R
Stock steering wheel
16X8 wheels
"Poly" bushings
Engine:
13B N/A
Drivetrain
S4 180,xxx of greatness
Future Suspension:
Coils(something fully costumizable)
Stiffer bushings
Slightly stiffer mounts
Sways(slightly stiffer than stock)
Engine:
13B SP N/A(still gonna daily it)
Drivetrain:
TII conversion
2-Way diff(still researching)
I don't think I can hop in anyone's car on here and impress people
I'm done?
If I were to describe my style, its fast and sloppy. My front end dips in and semi levels out past the entry.
Suspension:
Tanabe GF210(eh) (3kg/R2.5kg) That being said, leave your sways.
Stock angle fix that. Washers or rack spacers. Fast and sloppy needs moar angle.
Camber -1.2F/-0.8R
Stock steering wheel
16X8 wheels
"Poly" bushings
Engine:
13B N/A
Drivetrain
S4 180,xxx of greatness
Future Suspension:
Coils(something fully costumizable) Sure.
Stiffer bushings Depends on where. I'd say control arm/trailing arm for sure.
Slightly stiffer mounts
Sways(slightly stiffer than stock) If you get coils and just get those fancy endlinks/bushings for your stock sways, you might not need to go aftermarket here....
Engine:
13B SP N/A(still gonna daily it)
Drivetrain:
TII conversion
2-Way diff(still researching)
I don't think I can hop in anyone's car on here and impress people
I'm done?
Suspension:
Tanabe GF210(eh) (3kg/R2.5kg) That being said, leave your sways.
Stock angle fix that. Washers or rack spacers. Fast and sloppy needs moar angle.
Camber -1.2F/-0.8R
Stock steering wheel
16X8 wheels
"Poly" bushings
Engine:
13B N/A
Drivetrain
S4 180,xxx of greatness
Future Suspension:
Coils(something fully costumizable) Sure.
Stiffer bushings Depends on where. I'd say control arm/trailing arm for sure.
Slightly stiffer mounts
Sways(slightly stiffer than stock) If you get coils and just get those fancy endlinks/bushings for your stock sways, you might not need to go aftermarket here....
Engine:
13B SP N/A(still gonna daily it)
Drivetrain:
TII conversion
2-Way diff(still researching)
I don't think I can hop in anyone's car on here and impress people
I'm done?
Lawn and garden battery. Cheap. some 240 guys are using it saying it cranks their **** up every time. Thinking about it. Any suggestions? It's not like i have a stereo, neons or any dumb **** like that.....
400 cold cranking amps for $40. As long as it has atleast a 15 minute reserve capacity it will do it's job. Hearing good testimonials on em everywhere!
Find me a $40 optima....
I'm driving the bitch every weekend for atleast an hour or two total run time. Gotta jump it every time. My current battery is fuxored and i'd rather spend the extra $100 i'd save for not buying an optima on cool ****.....*paint* I dont have flooding issues. With 13ish volts on the factory gauge, it will start FIRST TIME EVERY TIME, unless it's been sitting longer than 3 months which shouldn't happen again unless i completely destroy something to render it undriveable. NO bullshit, tags are getting put on next month.
Find me a $40 optima....
I'm driving the bitch every weekend for atleast an hour or two total run time. Gotta jump it every time. My current battery is fuxored and i'd rather spend the extra $100 i'd save for not buying an optima on cool ****.....*paint* I dont have flooding issues. With 13ish volts on the factory gauge, it will start FIRST TIME EVERY TIME, unless it's been sitting longer than 3 months which shouldn't happen again unless i completely destroy something to render it undriveable. NO bullshit, tags are getting put on next month.
CAR: 89 infini, JDM
Suspension:
GAB coilovers, spring rate no idea
GAB camber adjusters
wheel spacer, for that extra degree of lock
Driveline:
1.5 way diff was in when i got the car
clutch not sure, its strong I it gets alot of abuse.
Engine:
13BT from a cosmo (don't crucify me the infini 1 was gone when I got the car)
174kw tho
straight through exhaust
Brakes:
stock
drift handbrake button, useless tho my handbrake doesnt work for ****
Chassis:
got a couple of braces on the weak points from the factory.
also strut brace
Wheels/Tires:
SUPER! Advan POS 16 inch
Bridgestone potenzas up front 205/55/16
back are mismatched, there both 225/50/16 tho
finally saved up sum money and am ready to get my steering up to scratch, full lock is absolutely pathetic in my car. would have done so sooner but I get raped by shipping rates.
Suspension:
GAB coilovers, spring rate no idea
GAB camber adjusters
wheel spacer, for that extra degree of lock
Driveline:
1.5 way diff was in when i got the car
clutch not sure, its strong I it gets alot of abuse.
Engine:
13BT from a cosmo (don't crucify me the infini 1 was gone when I got the car)
174kw tho
straight through exhaust
Brakes:
stock
drift handbrake button, useless tho my handbrake doesnt work for ****
Chassis:
got a couple of braces on the weak points from the factory.
also strut brace
Wheels/Tires:
SUPER! Advan POS 16 inch
Bridgestone potenzas up front 205/55/16
back are mismatched, there both 225/50/16 tho
finally saved up sum money and am ready to get my steering up to scratch, full lock is absolutely pathetic in my car. would have done so sooner but I get raped by shipping rates.
I have read that switching to dual oil coolers from the single puts too much stress on the oil pump. Did you do any other upgrades to use dual coolers?
I found this I think it was in this thread somwhere
-
- If you are planning on a dual core system, running them in series may adversely affect the oil pressure, while running them parallel will greatly increase the amount of plumbing. Also, ducting will be difficult, and the typical problems with dual oil coolers are the blocking of air to the front brakes (which is way more critical than the oil temp) and potential damage to the coolers if the car hits a curb (which happens quite often in road racing events).
- If you are planning on a dual core system, running them in series may adversely affect the oil pressure, while running them parallel will greatly increase the amount of plumbing. Also, ducting will be difficult, and the typical problems with dual oil coolers are the blocking of air to the front brakes (which is way more critical than the oil temp) and potential damage to the coolers if the car hits a curb (which happens quite often in road racing events).
i have dual oil coolers and no way in hell would mine hit a curb...i can think of much much more that would hit the curb before my oil coolers..and i would say that an oem bumper restricts more air than these oil coolers....
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