nope, having a nice wide powerband is way more fun than settling for a poor setup, especially when sizing the turbo correctly is fun as well.

 

i think that's also where i screwed up. i suck at researching, and am a compulsive spender... my garret 35r hybrid either needs more boost or it just falls off at like 6k, 6500rpm. i might try to see if i can get it on the dyno before i pull the motor just to get a baseline and see whats going on.

it's a divided T4 ball bearing .84 a/r but the front half is like a 30r.. idk if i should just pull it apart and upgrade the front half, or if it's just such a low boost pressure that it's not in its efficiency range??

my car's on a 10psi waste gate spring. when wastegate cracks it falls to 8psi steady.

with the wastegate vacuum source unhooked from the engine it will boost 25psi and that **** rips every gear however i do not understand if the waste gate spring is just giving out under the pressure like a BOV and limiting it to 25psi or the fact that the turbo just maxes out at 25psi.

 

So pretty much you have a t4 flanged 3076. I Just looked up a compressor map on it... Your car with stock port VE will flow at least 50lbs/ min. At 10lbs your turbo isn't even on the compressor map... And the most efficient it will be is about 64% and thats at 22psi.. 25lbs is all that little guy has in him. You need a bigger compressor like woah.

 

^ that flow rate is ball parked revving to 8500... Totally makes sense why it falls off at 6500

 

^ iPhone typo... That 50lbs should be 40lbs. 39.601 corrected lbs/min w/ a 85% VE

 

You need to rock the new TE's with engraved logos

 

buckey i know when you go past 12 pounds a rotary is a whole different animal dude. try a 12lb spring in the gate first with a controller then maybe a 16lb spring. your motor is missing out on its potential like you said. when you run it i can hear it. it wants more boost and the gate opens right when its starting to get what it wants for sure. i have a strong feeling thats what it is. gl

 

yea my limiter is set at 8500 or 8600 i cant remember. good info. i need to just stop buying ****.... but - i only paid $600 for it new so whatever.

what do you suggest i switch the compressor wheel/housing to? like justin said, i'd like to have something that comes online around 3500-4krpm (if not lower) and not fall off (if any) until atleast 7500

 

what was the compressor size? with a .84 A/R in the rear... id expect it to come on a little lower around 3300-3500 tops.. Do yourself a favor get a 12/14lb spring and get a good electronic boost controller. But even with a Bridge that turbo won't get you 500whp... Your gonna need something a little bigger.. with a much larger exhaust wheel. If you do a fully divided manifold you could still run a 1.06 A/R on your exhaust with a 65/70mm compressor wheel and still have good response. But if you want anything over 500 to the wheels you'll need to go with 1.00+ A/R exhaust. I've seen a few members run 500RWHP and close to it with a-spec 500r's on rew's with water/meth. But I think your goal should be generating a mid-range monster rather than over-all Hp ya know?...if you end up with 480rwhp and it comes on hard around 3400-3500..your gonna be a hell of a lot happer than something that comes on at 3800-4200 with a peak of 550 etc.. All just my opinion though..

id suggest a GT35R with 1.06 Open volute for a little more peak at the sacrifice of response and the same turbo with a Divided 1.06 for more response at the sacrifice of top end.

 

We're gonna calculate this on a perfect sunny 70*F day at the Jersey Shore. (sea level)


Rotaries have a working CFM the same as a 2.6L engine (~160cid). At 8500rpm you're sucking 393.5cfm of air uncorrected (all motors need to be corrected unless a racing engineer genius built it to have a positive Volumetric Efficiency).

Average motor is about 85% efficient....

You have a Decent Intake that isnt restricting your air flow (average pressure at the turbo inlet is -.5psig)...road racing ram air would drop this.

Do the math with Psia, and temperature corrections... lets say to be realistic that intake temps are 115*F on this day. (this really doesnt matter in real world applications..like when its 120* on track, and your intercooler is heat soaked as ****...but it gets you in the ball park of what you want in a Turbo.

with all things considered on the Gorgeous day at the jersey shore, hypodermic needles all floating around you... The smell of Swamps and Toxic waste in the air...

your car will have a corrected Flow Rate of 38.17lbs/min @ 10lbs of boost... and 53.62lbs/min @20lbs of boost.

this will put the compressor ratio value to 1.8 @ 10lbs of boost and 2.5 @ 20lbs.

10lbs= 38.1 and 1.8
20lbs= 53.6 and 2.5

Plot on the map...


Heres a big 30r..... barely on the Map at 10lbs..... 20lbs, you have a hair drier spinning at 144,000rpm. Dont know exactly where your turbo compares...could be better, could be worse... If it was $600 I'd put my money on the less efficient side... but who knows.


If you wanna do a wheel/housing slap, the GT37 82mm looks good. I'm pretty sure you can find them too.


The GTX3582r gives me half a chub... the effiency range on it is sooo broad. if I wasn't die hard Precision Turbos, I would have used this exact turbo on my car.... maybe if my 6262 dies, I'll get one. That ************ would be 75% efficient even at like 35lbs lol.


the essence of a car nerd :shrug:

 

I have a 62mm comp wheel with a SP housing, 62mm turbine 76 trim w/ a t3 in, 3" v band out .63 A/R hot side... SUPER SMALL... Instead of running all that exhaust gas through the turbo to make the power, why not make a short, fat exhaust manifold that flows alot of exhaust gas, and a HUGE wastegate (60mm) and dump the extra exhaust gasses out before the turbo instead of trying to cram it through the turbo? Like a "once its out of the engine, who gives a **** where the exhaust gasses go, as long as they get out of the motor" mentality... that was my idea...and I think it worked... makes just shy of 480whp on 19lbs on this little turbo.... and it spools really really really ridiculously fast. The only worry I had was of boost creep because of how small the hot side is... but it holds 19 all the way to limiter. my power falls off a little around 8300, but not bad I'm thinking because its choking up from how small the turbo is, thats High enough for me when the limiter is only 200 away ... On 26lbs I'll be over 5-hundie, but I bet my ~7hp drop over 8300 is more like ~18hp

I was Drunk and High and came up with that idea.... only thing i remembered from the night... tried it... works for me.

 

A super legit Turbo rebuilder told me exactly thats how you should do a turbo setup for almost instant response.

Super small exhaust housing with the biggest damn wastegate possible, even 2 50mm gates would be better.

The super small exhaust housing doesnt even matter as long as you have enough wastegate to get rid of the excess exhaust.

 

I'm a pretty open minded guy... But i'd need a dyno graph to believe this. motor specs....port etc? I get your logic...but I'm skeptical on the dyno numbers.. What kind of dyno btw? I'm also skeptical about 26lbs and being over 500. But prove me wrong and i'll give the applause

 

+1

 

The motor is a large street port on pump/meth. 478 to the wheels on 19lbs
I'll get Dave@speed1 to email me the original dyno plot from the car. I have a paper print out somewhere in my shop. Its a numberJet dyno of course. Once I have it tuned on e85 in the next couple months I'll post it up the new #s.


Any updates Bucky? Did you ever finish those fenders you were modding

 

nothing on the fenders yet. ive been busy with work (thankfully) so once things slow down ill get back on them.


some of the stuff that's been going on over the last week or so via SPACEbook:

I modified some windows



Fixed some windows




did some reminiscing


finished my friends limo to pull some tail in.


Swapped a clutch on a 6spd RX8.



Finished result.


started trimming my BN Sports Aero to get more clearance now that my LCA's are getting extended, and my fenders are wider.

 

Updates:
Made a trip to JTP Justin Pawlak's shop - Hot Line Performance, to grab his 50mm Rear Over Fenders to prep my RX7 for the Vegas Drift Season Opener event on February 18th. You guys gotta check out some of the insane builds going on over there.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Hot-Li...571854?sk=wall

 

You should test fit those things i want to see if they are worth the hype.

 

i will post photos once i get the rear TE's, and get the side skirts mounted.
but for now this is all that i can post because the shitty cell phone pic doesnt do them justice.



much "fuller" fitting when compared to the previous over fenders i had. they covered alot of the minimal battle scars i had exposed with the previous fenders. definitely saved about a week of prep time for me by getting these.

1st event is 2 weeks out!!!

 

I agree it does look much "fuller" than other overs. comparing them to the set you have in your sig they look a lot better. I am wondering what they look like when you rivet them down, if they will get wavy like the other overs time will tell. Right now i am pretty impressed.

 

is that one of brandons d-spare stickers on the previous page haha.

 

Here is the turbo you need.. Good drifting power-band..

http://turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=65

 

What's going on at 4250?

 

I'm sure it's a different D-Spare.com. There's a bunch those sites floating around.

 

damn i DO need that turbo... i'm going to list mine, and see if anyone wants it for like $800 if so ill swoop that.

edit: didnt notice it wasnt ball bearing... how much extra is it for the BB center housing??