haha not there yet though! we need you still!

Thanks man! it's usually really rad paint - just the gun kills me. i fought with it for the first 45 mins and got to the point where i was like **** it. lay it wet and wetsand it clean. it actually settled good though surprisingly i think i was just getting weirded out by the gun and had to fully commit to it

i do want to price out a Sata, or Iwata! when i get the currency from this limo ill holler at you and see whats up! if the deal is super good ill throw some of the savings in your pocket for the help bro!

 

it's like (almost) anything. if you do it too much you get burnt on it.

this doesn't include *****, getting money, drifting.


i like making rad things look good. i dont like painting normal cars at all. i dont really like prepping either.

spraying is alright - but i like the money that follows it. i couldnt imagine working for an auto body shop unless it's my dads, or my own. that **** would blow out fast.

 

You'd have a super competitive car already If you didn't spend so much time making it baller.



I have no problems with this. Keep up the badass work Bucky.

 

I got a devilbiss base gun and run with IATA just for clear. Very happy with the combination, but would like to update the base gun to the sata with digital read out. The iwata has issues with makeing mettalics look splatchy that why I use it only on clears.

 

thats a good way to describe how my devilbiss sprays all the time. i sent it to the trash can yesterday i think im going to go grab it out and see if i can send it out for inspection. there's gotta be something up with it that i just cant see/dont know what to look for.

the devilbiss comes out super orange peeley even with the needle almost fully closed. it's stupid, but it works really good at 80psi. but the lower the PSI like 35, 37, 40 etc it really sucks. im thinking something has to be plugged up.

everyone has been saying Sata. ive been looking into both. im definitely going to order something new though

 

lol thanks dude.

big brakes are going to make it way more competitive though. my 13 was alot more predictable diving in on someone with the front brembos. that car was really jank, but left foot braking in that car had a wider span of control than the FC brakes.

i'm always locking up the outside wheel and it makes the car pivot more at times (higher speed) changing line. the brembos on my 13 put in so much work.

 

i don't think a BBK will fix that aside from less effort, some fine tuning of the alignment, tire pressures and tire compound would likely help more.

 

this was my philosophy on it for sure. bigger brakes = more stopping power at less pressure. what i meant by the FC brakes locking alot - was that they're like an on/off switch. you really have to stab them because of the smaller size when compared to the brembos. it's one of those things i suck at explaining, just have experience with both so in my head i know the pros and cons about.

nevertheless i want to make the switch to hydro ebrake. Sil8ty on here (george) makes the brackets to run dual evo brembos on the rear. got a deal on these i couldn't pass up. aside from the brackets i'll be less than $500 into this with the ASD hydro ebrake, lines, etc.

we all know i'd pay $500 just to have blingin' brakes inside my wheel wells. the added performance is just a bonus lol

 

heh, well upgrading the master cylinder to a 626 unit is a cheaper alternative with a similar result. i doubt you're really pushing the limits of the stock TII brakes just yet. if they're locking they're doing the job, sounds like you just want less pedal effort which even if you do big brakes you will want to upgrade the master first anyways.

 

i've had a few people tell me about the 626 mc. is it worthwhile?

 

for about $100 total, why not try it. cheaper than tossing the $1200 big brakes on and the pedal still feeling like a brick.

the 626 cylinder bore is 15/16" versus the FC master which is 7/8". more surface area = less pedal effort for the same brake.

the 626 master just requires some line modifications, there's a few writeups on the forums.


i haven't really done a before and after comparison but i will be doing it on an FD in the shop in the next few weeks after the engine is built.

 

no turning back now. im sure good pads would help but it's one of those things the money isn't an issue, and i have the brakes so why not? i got these these for wayy too cheap to pass up... i'm going to be in this swap less than $500-$600 guaranteed with everything. we all know good/legit pads are almost $200+ per set

i know they're going to work better, and i know they're going to look better.

it could be worse homie - i could be doing some sketchy CNC handbrake plumbed in-line....



@ben i'll check it out. redoing the front chassis/engine bay hard lines i didn't want to mess with much but i know im going to have to. i gotta check into it all some more.

 

ive had my satajet for years, love it. works the same everytime, no problems in 4 years. and i like dimension too, people say it doesnt cover well but it seems good to me...
and the ultra matches well in my experience too. painting for a living can suck, i dunno if i'll do it forever.
i want to get the shop big enough to hire people to do collision crap to bring in $ and just do the fun custom projects myself. in a perfect world...

oh yeah i talked to you on FB about milano red, heres some stuff ive done with that color
civic bay, dimension base/clear


w/ both gold flake and pearl on top (cheesy but cust. wanted it)

 

i had some things done in an almost exact color/flake once before it looked "cool" at first but i got bored and switched it up haha.

that red looks good. it looks a bit orangish though in person though right?

 

 

is that with no buff buckey? ^ i paint for a living too. grew up playing in my dads bodyshop. been painting now for about 16yrs. i use an iwata with the devilbiss dekups setup and i love it. never had a problem with the metallic either. even with single stage flake and that **** is a bitch to spray.

 

same here. self taught with the help of my dad, and friends over the last few yrs. i've been doing it on the side for about 2yrs now. just starting to get to where i really feel comfortable doing jobs entirely on my own.

ive never messed with single stage flake, but my FC is single stage with metallic and it came out decent - but not good by any means in person. photos look alright though
i had some weird reaction where we added more red to get it the exact color i wanted, and for some reason there was what looked like a "fish eye eliminator" additive in one of the colors, and it wouldn't mix at all. scooped it out, and thought it was all good, but there were a few spots where it bubbled like i sprayed over oil or something. super weird.

i bet tri stage crap is $$$$

with my shop account at sherwin for a gallon of red, the reducer, euro clear, reducer, and high build primer/hardner it's like $650.... couldn't imagine spending more money on flake and crap. i bought a tiny jar of HOK pearl awhile ago and it was like $115 or something stupid i cant remember


I got a pretty cool update today for the build thread! going to have a dedicated page on the Real World Solutions website to document this season with them. Can't thank Laura, and Dominic @ Rotary Aviation enough for their help this year.

there's nothing up yet, but in the next few days it will have schedules up once they're released

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/new_page_4.htm

 

im never buying hok again.... haha Ryan is ballin' outta control with all the house of kolors stuff on his fc





George comparing ride height's

 

on the brakes subject. Brembos look 10000x cooler than OEM so therefore it's the perfect reason to have them.

 

<3

 

youre gonna need sum ballin three piece wheels to go with them...

 

Where did you get the hood? Was going to custom mount something my aluminum hood.

 

I'm going to run the TE's, and try to find a deal on new meisters, or keep checking Zilvia for some. the weds i was buying fell through. would've been cool but im sure ill find something rad again.

 

it's just an aluminum NA hood cut up with a 9K Racing Hood Vent, and 9K Racing Carbon Hood Pins.

probably could recreate the hood for $300-$350 minus labor if you wanted one.

 

ugh i need to stop playing fd and get my **** built. its already january