I don't know John... You may need someone with some fabrication background. lol ;-)

 

I always assumed you would anyway- couldn't imagine you not having perfectly routed hoses, which would be difficult with anything but a full custom built radiator.

 

PS have you seen the rad size that PPRE use on their 4 rotor. its about 2x the length and 2 of them (look at their lambo build on FB)

 

For my radiator, I'm using Howe Racing. SUPER cool guys, build quality is fantastic, and the pricing is amazingly well priced. Mine is a dual pass core, 24" x15 core, 2 -20AN fittings welded on it and 2 1/4" L brackets for mounting. Fully tig welded etc. $310 plus shipping, 2 week lead time. They can build ANYTHING you want. Just draw it up and email it to them and they'll build it.

 

Wow - this build is AMAZING. Good work, seriously.

I have a few SW questions on the tubing stuff if you have a second I'd love to get your advice.

Jon

 

@mefarri: At this point, I'm pretty sure John is comfident enough to fab up anything he needs for his car lol

 

Yes, but after currency rates. shipping costs, taxes and import duty's it's going to cost double that when it gets here, and it will take a long time too. That's also why an universal radiator from jegs or summit is not really a perfect option. We do have ebay crap over here, but I don't really want to use something like that for obvious reasons. I've ordered a 24,5 x 20 x 1,75" aluminium core at a local radiator shop, Because I'm going to be fabricating the endtanks, cooling fan shroud and all of the radiator ducting myself I should be able to build a pretty nice cooling system that's designed to fit well together. I'm thinking about building some ducts in the front of the radiator, and duct the back of the radiator into a hood vent. I want to keep underhood temps down because the intake filter is there.

Basically a bit like this:
http://amsperformance.com/amsperform...-042409012.jpg

 

Man, you gotta cowl induct that intake system! Give that bad boy constant cool pressurized air.!!

 

Speaking of PPRE, went into their workshop the other day while a mate was having his 7 dynoed and took a couple shots of this beauty... (Bit more progress than their FB shots...) They are certainly pumping these motors out, there was another two under construction as well!







Btw John really nice build I'll be checking this out with interest!! Bet you can't wait until its all done!

 

this is awesome! Kudos to you sir. Amazing skills you have.

 

Update

Couldn't machine the e-shaft counterweight because I didn't have the material for it yet, so I started on the exhaust silencers . I'm building 2 very simple absorption style mufflers. To make them work well I just made them as big as possible, and used pretty thick material. These won't be the most prettiest mufflers ever, but I think they will work pretty good. Outer dimensions are 7,5" x 7,5" x 20".

Some cut up scrap material, 13 gauge 304L


Tacked together, these will make the outer shells


Exhaust pipe goes in at an angle, this is so the exhaust can clear the rear drive axles easily

 

Why is there no like button??!?!?!?!!

 

word!



This build is (with the words of Jeremy Clarkson) astonishing

Great to see so enthusiasts here in europe!!


best regards from Germany!

 

Can't wait to see it went its done... Subbed

 

hey john. i too am in the process of build a 4 ROTOR. beautiful craftmanship by the way!!! I did a little test run on the block tonight to cheack oil pressure. i built a 1 to 1 gear ratio drive for the stock oil pump just as u did! my question is tho that when i cranked the engine at 1000rmp, im making 70psi and the excess oil is FLYING out of the relief valve. Im worried that at high rpm, the relief valve will not be cappable of returning the high volume of oil back to the sump fast enough. just a heads up on the setup, more tests to follow tomorrow. i think im going to also ad a few more ports in the relief valve to help reduse the pressure and keep it consistant on the top end. \ let me know what u think. thanks john.

 

you know you own a PP when those mufflers are sexy!

 

I would just see what it does when the engine is up and running, if oil pressure is rising a lot at higher rpm's you might be right, but you should be able to modify the oil pressure relieve valve with the engine in the car, so it's something you can do easily when the car is up and running. Don't fix something that don't need fixing. Also oil temperature makes a huge difference, I guess during your test run the oil wasn't at engine running temperature. Also, are you using normal oil sprayers, or fixed jets? Makes a big difference.





Some pictures from this evening:

The entry point is at an angle, so I had to "bend" the perforated tube.


Now we're getting somewhere!


Wrapping and filling them, ran out of packing material

 

lmao, you should just put a hinge on the top, so you can repack em! i'm toying with the idea of making a muffler for mine too, nobody makes an 8"x20" can in the US except the MFR part and its $500!

 

And how would you plan to seal it properly ?

 

nice build man

 

I think you will blow the steel wool out of those mufflers within a week, I used to have just a street port with header and straight pipe to the muffler and it would burn the guts out pretty fast. I finally started filling it with lava rock, it worked pretty well and lasted almost a year of daily driving.

 

I know, couldn't find mufflers this big out here either , can't wait to find out how well they will work. I actually made some repackable mufflers in the past, they tended to be louder and leak. Also in the amount of time needed to fabricate a muffler like that I can cut a muffler open, repack it and weld it back shut 2-3 times.


The mufflers aren't filled with steel wool. I never use plain steel wool, condensing water and heat cycles makes it rust BAD, and it will indeed blow out very quickly. The darker stuff in the middle is high grade stainless steel wool, pretty expensive but I've never ever had problems with it. The lighter stuff that sits more to the outside is also stainless wool, but regular grade.




Update

Finally some progress on the rear counterweight. This thing was jinxed, every single time I wanted to start maching it somebody called with an emergency job or something else happened. Not tonight though , Almost done, still need to machine the flywheel centering surface. To do that I'll mount the counterweight onto the 4-rotor e-shaft, align the e-shaft using the main bearing surfaces, and then machine the flywheel mating surface. That way I'll know for sure that the flywheel and clutch won't wobble.

Counterweight shape might be a bit odd compared to the oem one, this one is obviously suited for a 4-rotor, but the mass is also more localised, reducing weight and inertia. Inertia of this counterweight is 38% less than the oem S5 one

 

Who would have ever though a counterweight could look so good!

 

How did you do that outer shape in a manual machine?!

 

my guess...........a rotary table on a milling machine.