Well I've thought about it, but this header is already a on the long side, adding an adjustable piece would only make it longer, so it probably wouldn't do any good. I might do some testing with header designs when the car is up and running, but for now I just wanted a header that is in the ballpark and get on with the project.


Outside dimensions are roughly 70mm x 70mm. If you want to duplicate it print this .dxf file on a 1:1 scale:

http://home.deds.nl/~dhb/Collector%2...3,5%20inch.DXF

Cut out the pattern and fold it around a 3,5" OD. piece of pipe. Mark the notches, cut it out and hammer the remaining pieces round a piece of roundbar.

Most of the fabrication is done at work after hours.



As promised, some pictures of the intake manifold.
Really happy with the filter, it's a bit pricey but should work very well.

Airhorns! These were made from delrin, I hand machined them on a lathe


I had to machine a flat side to the outer ones to make room for the filter button fasteners


The delrin airhorns are a snug fit onto the intake tube, a stainless steel clamp will clamp them together. The 4 bolts are to fix the airhorns with the aluminium baseplate


With the filter mounted

 

You should honestly make these bespoke pieces for people who can afford the nicest of stuff. You'd make a killing.

 

really a quality and decent paced build.

 

This thing is going to be so freaking loud!

Nice work John

 

Subscribed! Your a mad machinist with awesome fab skills man. Keep up the great work!

 

Seriously great work! Looking forward to rest of the build. Love the header design!

 

i love this build, can't wait to see finished product! I carefully inspected every picture and diagram. Details are amazing.

By the way did you hear about people in California US, who made 4 rotor RX8? They called BMI Racing here is link to their site.

http://bmiracing.net/

 

The guy is her also on the forum.

 

I'm simply astonished by this. Very, very impressive and inspiring.

 

Why can't you ever find threads like these ones that are years old and finished. I want to see this finished Superbad.it's gonna be a monster.

 

john where did you buy that filter, and can they make any size?

 

Such awesome fabrication. Top notch stuff

 

It's an ITG filter, here is their site http://www.itgairfilters.com/
I just looked up a local distributor. I think they can make a custom one, but it will be expensive. They do have a lot of different sizes, so there's probably one that will work. The one I got came with a blank baseplate so you can mount it on pretty much anything.

 

A Raceair JC70 or JC71 that is.

 

Let me know how that filter works out, I see it on everything and they make them fit to our normal stock air boxes, so that might be an option to consider. The only thing that might turn me off of them is them not being rechargeable like the K&N filters.

 

Wow the sheer amount of work and ingenuity in this is amazing.
you got madd skills, keep us updated with this project

 

It's the JC70 one

You can remove the filter itself, wash it and put it back on. The filter should last longer than the rest of the engine.


Made some progress today, I'm currently busy getting the e-shaft ready for balancing. First I lightened and weight-matched all the rotors. The 2 engines I used had different rotor weights, over 50 grams difference. So in the mill they go, the rotors are a bit lighter now, and are all equal to within one gram.






Next up was making bob weights, these are carefully machined to a certain weight which matches the weight of the rotor, seals and the oil inside the rotor when the engine is running.




Next up are the counterweights. Using computer simulation I can design counterweights that will theoretically work. The shaft still needs to be dynamically balanced, but it will get me close so that hopefully only a bit of drilling is needed. The front counterweight can be easily modified to work, but I'm not so sure about the rear one. There needs to be a keyway added to it, which weakens the counterweight. Might be a bad idea with all that power going through it, and a failing counterweight could make things very ugly.

 

Good job on the rotors lightening and getting them to within one gram.

 

Hell yeah, my rear diff and subframe mounts are made of delrin lol. Good stuff

 

i'm not sure i agree with the lightening method though. if you look at factory rotors they are balanced like a wheel just like the rotating assembly. taking material off equally will cause an imbalance in the spinning mass.

no idea how you could accomplish that though without a dedicated balancer for the rotors themselves.

 

^^^^ i was wondering the same thing cuz i would love to lighten my rotors

 

Are you sure about that? I know that the rotors are balanced from the factory, so in it's stock shape it should be in balance when spun around the rotor bearing center axis. I aligned the milling machine to this axis, and machined the holes a certain dimension from this axis. They are all exactly the same size, and machined outside of the stock balancing holes so those are unaffected. I also did both sides of the rotor equally. I wonder if this will affect the balance a lot, if it does what about people running carbon apex seals, or people grinding down the sides of the rotor for clearance, or people beveling the edges of the rotors for earlier intake opening, I've even seen people removing the oil slinger. There isn't a great deal or material removed, the worst one had 51 grams removed. But maybe I'll take them to the local balancing shop and see if they can check it.

 

It couldn't hurt to ensure the balance. I understand your reasoning and it makes sense to me, but the last thing you want is to have all that beautiful, careful work destroyed from a lack of double checking.

 

You could get some of the titanium rotors that Mazdatrix is designing. They weigh about 6 pounds and would be great for what you need. May have to wait a little longer until they go into production though.

 

these lightweight rotors are only usefull if you plan on running 10-12k+ rpm in a race engine. for running pretty much normal rev-limits in a streetcar the standard ones are more then sufficient.

and if you have read the thread you would have known this a pretty much a low-budget build. instead of buying stuff, John makes it himself to keep things interesting..

buying titanium rotors to use in a 4-rotor will pretty much bankrupt anyone