Try this John, less straight corners

 

try it! the SAE papers seem to say that smaller intake plenums actually work better, the S2000 being the poster child...

although at some point its probably better than the stock radiator, and those work ok

 

AMAZING!!!!!! subscribed

 

Tried that, made the middle part of the radiator inefficient, and I really don't want that, since my coolant fans are there.



I dig the S2000 intake plenum. I've actually heard of locals fitting s2000 intake manifolds to other engines, somebody tried it because "well an s2000 makes a hell of a lot of power for a 2l, so the manifold can't be bad", and it worked great so more people are starting to use it.
I think most of the end tanks I tried out work just as well or better than the stock one. Any design will probably work, but I had some spare time and thought it was interesting.



Update

Did some actual work for a change Since I haven't finished any manufacturing drawings for the radiator end tanks yet I started doing the exhaust. I already made the header, and the biggest part of the mufflers, but the rest still needed to be done. This is basically the result of 2 evenings of fiddling. Takes longer than I thought, but I want to get it right.

Still need to hang the mufflers, and make 2 pipes between them and the Y-piece


I like V-Bands


This Y-piece was tricky to get right


Making sure the Y-piece flows ok




There's light at the end of the tunnel!

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Is that a fork lift!? That looks sketchy as hell lol. Superb job as always; I cannot wait for this to be finished!

 

dude this is freaking amazing

 

I'm going to ask a very broad and general question, which you aren't required to answer...
When I found this thread, I found a few others on the Ausrotary site where guys machined splines into stock eshafts to make their 4 rotors and one guy had videos of it running. Of course it was a big bang engine where 2 rotors fired at once.
Is there any major concern doing in doing it that way if one were to stay NA and sideport?
Grannys speedshop also did it and they have crude plans as well.

 

Well it can work, but joining two shafts like that will always be weaker. It would probably be fine if you stay sideport and use a big-bang firing order, but what's the point in that? You'll end up with 350-ish hp depending on further modifications and it will sound like stock. Going turbo will be far easier and probably more reliable too. I'm all for trying different things and fabricating 4-rotors, but I think the ending result might be a bit dissapointing. If you want to get serious and go with peripheral ports and a 90dgr. firing order 2 joined shafts probably won't be reliable. Believe me, I did my homework before spending a few months building my custom one, On paper it isn't strong enough. I've seen more stuff fail on paper and work in real life but do you want to take the risk? The shaft is only part of the cost of a 4-rotor engine, there are soo many more expensive things you must build / buy.

 

If you would connect two 13B-shaft, the best way would be to put them togheter 90dgr so the big bang is gone? Or am I drunk right now?
Stock 13B are 180dgr, and the 26B firing 1-3-2-4, so if you put the two 13B after eachother, and put the rear part 90dgr from the front, you achive 1-3-2-4 firing order?
If not, I will stop drinkig beer for tonight

 

Thanks for the response John. I'm basically more curious than anything.

And tegheim, you and John would be the ones to ask haha

 

Nice man, keep it up!

 

Yes should be possible, you can keep on drinking beer! I don't think the e-shaft phasing has a large effect on the coupling breaking or not, since only the torque created by the front 2 rotors passes through it. You would need to figure out how to balance it though, can't use 2 stock counterweights anymore. Clutch and drivetrain components will probably have an easier time if you go with a 90dgr. order since the there are 4 smaller torque 'peaks' per revolution instead of 2 big ones.



smallupdate

Finished fiddling with radiator designs, didn't end up with a really fancy design but it's easy to fabricate and according to the simulation it will work very well. Flow is a bit biased towards the center of the core but that's ok since my cooling fans are there.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfYSRublm9g&list


Also continued with the exhaust, hope to get that done tomorrow.

 

This build is genius.

 

Yup, rads gonna look rad.

BTW, you should sell plans for the eshaft...but then again folks would take advantage if they had a CNC lathe.

 

Looks good!

I don't think either me or John would sell, or give away any blueprints. But maybe answer friendly asked questions :-)

 

What's the drop now John?

 

Exhaust work Didn't get it completely finished because I ran out of 2,5" 304 tubing but I'm almost there . Just takes a lot of time to get it right, I really focussed on getting as much ground clearance as possible because this car will be low, and mounting the mufflers was tricky because they are just so big, sloppy mountings would make them bounce between the gastank and the rear wheels. Ended up using 3 mounts per muffler, 2 to carry all the weight and 1 to limit side movement.


You can see where I ran out of tubing, really frustrating since I only need a few more inches to be able to finish it


Tried to get it as tight as possible without any chance of rattling


Those big boxes better work, I think I'll paint them black though even if they are stainless, they really stand out when looking at the rear of the car


Heat shielding had to go, just doesn't fit anymore, got more packing material so I'll probably finish the mufflers tomorrow

 

since you're going to pummel the exhaust with supersonic exhaust gasses @1000C, the more hangers the better....

 

Whoa, what are the weight of those mufflers?!
Do you think the front tires will ever see ground? :P

 

I suppose you could always use a couple extra inches!!

 

what type of paint will you use for your exhaust? i want to paint mine black too,

 

no need for a little drain hole on the mufflers for the condensation?

 

I know , that's why the exhaust is hanging on a total of 9 mounting points. The mountings of each muffler alone are strong enough to hold a muffler and a person hanging onto it, guess how I figured that one out


Right, Who says a big 4-rotor will make the car front-end heavy , I just completed and weighed the mufflers, and they're about 10kg's (22lbs) each, so it's basically like there are 2 very small children hanging underneath the car , I don't mind though, happy to trade a lot of exhaust noise for some weight.


Nothing very special, just some heat resistant rattlecan black paint.


Nope, I don't think it's needed here. First of all these mufflers are entirely made out of thick 304 stainless steel, which will last a LOT longer than most galvanised steel mufflers, I'm also not using a catalytic converter (those things 'produce' a lot of water), and the rotaries exhaust temperature will be very high so any water should evaporate.



Pictures of the finished mufflers:

 

Beautiful! Really enjoying watching this build. Thanks for sharing!

 

You're really talented, that's amazing to me. I wish I could do stuff like this haha, I can just do computer stuff which is way less cool to me :P

Anyways, subscribed to the project