ZoomZoom's CYM- Imported from Canada; a Journey Begins... Again.
just came across this build - great job on documenting the build, I tried to do something similar with my CYM but never had the patience. Can't wait to see it roaming the streets again
Lots of new parts including plenty of new factory hardware arrived this week.
Thought I ordered a new center console for a 93. I ended up with a 94. GoodfellaFD3S said to send it his way. Cause he is a parts hoarder!
Thought I ordered a new center console for a 93. I ended up with a 94. GoodfellaFD3S said to send it his way. Cause he is a parts hoarder!
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; Sep 1, 2016 at 04:31 PM.
Finally get to start putting this back together this weekend. Hopefully with the storms on the east coast I don't get called into work this weekend.
Last edited by ZoomZoom; Sep 1, 2016 at 08:22 AM.
Are you staying with the FFE idler? I have the same pulley setup, and finding the right WP/Alt belt is a PITA. 38" is too short, and 39" too long. I have a 38.5" Gates belt on there right now, but I had to slide the alternator pulley out a bit to get the belt on, not ideal if I have to remove a pulley to change belt even though I don't expect to do that often. There's a 985mm belt made by Bando, but they are not available locally, only online. Interested to see if you have the same issue, and if you have other solution that I'm not aware of.
Great build nonetheless
Great build nonetheless
Are you staying with the FFE idler? I have the same pulley setup, and finding the right WP/Alt belt is a PITA. 38" is too short, and 39" too long. I have a 38.5" Gates belt on there right now, but I had to slide the alternator pulley out a bit to get the belt on, not ideal if I have to remove a pulley to change belt even though I don't expect to do that often. There's a 985mm belt made by Bando, but they are not available locally, only online. Interested to see if you have the same issue, and if you have other solution that I'm not aware of.
Great build nonetheless
Great build nonetheless
This weekend should provide some good updates on progress of putting some things back on the car verses taking them off. Let's hope I don't drop and break my iPhone screen again in the process. That was $130+ to replace at Apple last weekend
Here's an example, but there are lots of them. I forgot which one I got but I think they are all very similar, I think I cracked 2 out of the 3 I got, for sure did a good job protecting the screen.
https://www.amazon.com/iPhone-Protec...iphone+6s+plus
https://www.amazon.com/iPhone-Protec...iphone+6s+plus
I posted this elsewhere this week for someone asking this specific question but I may as well post it here as more people will likely find it here with the popularity of the build thread.
Injector lag times aka injector dead times based on voltages for my ID injectors. You will input these via a Datalogit if you use a power FC or your corresponding GUI in whatever stand alone engine management system you run. These are for the 725cc and 2000cc (actually 2200cc) injectors
You should Be setting your static fuel pressure to 43.5psi via your FPR and then use these corresponding numbers below for your injector lag times at these particular voltages. Those who know what they are doing will understand.
Injector lag times aka injector dead times based on voltages for my ID injectors. You will input these via a Datalogit if you use a power FC or your corresponding GUI in whatever stand alone engine management system you run. These are for the 725cc and 2000cc (actually 2200cc) injectors
You should Be setting your static fuel pressure to 43.5psi via your FPR and then use these corresponding numbers below for your injector lag times at these particular voltages. Those who know what they are doing will understand.
Last edited by ZoomZoom; Sep 2, 2016 at 07:01 AM.
As you can see, you adjust the belt tension using the thread on the bolt above the idler pulley. It's reverse thread on the bottom which is interesting so you need to play around with it to see how it works.
I also had been looking to replace the power steering resevior. The aluminum ones I was going to have made ran into a snag so I opted to order a new one. It's on back order for 30-60 days. I decided to see if I had a crack in mine and replace the hose that it was leaking from. The resevior isn't cracked so I cleaned it up and replaced the hose. It's ready to go back on the pump and then onto the bracket I had powdercoated.
I also had been looking to replace the power steering resevior. The aluminum ones I was going to have made ran into a snag so I opted to order a new one. It's on back order for 30-60 days. I decided to see if I had a crack in mine and replace the hose that it was leaking from. The resevior isn't cracked so I cleaned it up and replaced the hose. It's ready to go back on the pump and then onto the bracket I had powdercoated.
Last edited by ZoomZoom; Sep 5, 2016 at 03:43 PM.
So I've purchased thousands of dollars in factory parts alone. In that pile of parts I've purchased aloft of hardware. The cost of the hardware thru Mazda is exponentionaly more expensive than getting hardware from a hardware store or Fastenal etc.
something I've decided to start doing is size out the hardware I need and buy it elsewhere when possible.
As these cars age the hardware gets rusty and nasty as well as destroyed with wrenching etc.
Here is a tool to help you size hardware although it won't cover everything as I've noticed.
Everyone likes new hardware when installing new parts
something I've decided to start doing is size out the hardware I need and buy it elsewhere when possible.
As these cars age the hardware gets rusty and nasty as well as destroyed with wrenching etc.
Here is a tool to help you size hardware although it won't cover everything as I've noticed.
Everyone likes new hardware when installing new parts
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,818
Likes: 656
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Mike, McMaster-Carr (who ship out of NJ) have a very nice selection of hardware at great prices.
Keep up the good work bud, I love the way you chronicle all your part choices with pictures and part numbers
Keep up the good work bud, I love the way you chronicle all your part choices with pictures and part numbers
Mike, great job on everything.
My FD too leaks from the ps hose slightly. Ive been reluctant to tear it apart and find an aftermarket hose that fits nicely. Now I have no excuse. Any reason why you decided to use the oem clamps? Ive noticed mine keep loosening up every few months.. or maybe its just the hose deteriorating slowly.
My FD too leaks from the ps hose slightly. Ive been reluctant to tear it apart and find an aftermarket hose that fits nicely. Now I have no excuse. Any reason why you decided to use the oem clamps? Ive noticed mine keep loosening up every few months.. or maybe its just the hose deteriorating slowly.
Coulda used one of those thread checkers a few times for sure!
Love new hardware, but OEM is definitely $$$. Most of the stuff is pretty standard.
Looks great!
Where'd you order the new PS tank? It's the cruddiest tank in my bay. Might be nice to swap if not exorbitant
Love new hardware, but OEM is definitely $$$. Most of the stuff is pretty standard.
Looks great!
Where'd you order the new PS tank? It's the cruddiest tank in my bay. Might be nice to swap if not exorbitant
Last edited by Narfle; Sep 6, 2016 at 01:53 PM.
I have a Competition account with Mazda. It's as good as it's going to get on new parts. They still aren't giving them away but you will get prices below dealer cost and buy direct from Mazda. They used to be called Mazdacomp and are now called Mazda Motorsport Development.
The follow up question of "How does one get an account like that"? If you just run in 2 sanctioned events a year. SCCA, NASA, even drag racing NHRA, IHRA etc. submit your results you can qualify. Used to be able to buy pretty much all the 99 spec parts including brakes, body etc. some items are No Longer Available unfortunately. We all know the sad truth about the aging platform. You can also get employee discounts on new Mazda automobiles for racing or family use. I encourage anyone serious about these cars to get yourself an account. PM me if you have additional
Questions on this subject.
Apply thru the website and look up details here.
https://mazdamotorsports.com/
That parts washer looks an awful lot like a kitchen sink. 
As you can see, you adjust the belt tension using the thread on the bolt above the idler pulley. It's reverse thread on the bottom which is interesting so you need to play around with it to see how it works.
I also had been looking to replace the power steering resevior. The aluminum ones I was going to have made ran into a snag so I opted to order a new one. It's on back order for 30-60 days. I decided to see if I had a crack in mine and replace the hose that it was leaking from. The resevior isn't cracked so I cleaned it up and replaced the hose. It's ready to go back on the pump and then onto the bracket I had powdercoated.
I also had been looking to replace the power steering resevior. The aluminum ones I was going to have made ran into a snag so I opted to order a new one. It's on back order for 30-60 days. I decided to see if I had a crack in mine and replace the hose that it was leaking from. The resevior isn't cracked so I cleaned it up and replaced the hose. It's ready to go back on the pump and then onto the bracket I had powdercoated.
Kitchen sink parts washer, use of wife's toothbrush to clean parts in aforementioned sink, storage of parts on the dining room table --- I have a guest bedroom you can use when your wife changes the door locks.