ZoomZoom's CYM- Imported from Canada; a Journey Begins... Again.
12-23-16, 07:49 AM
#427
12-23-16, 03:40 PM
#430
Luckily we all have understanding wives and family. Also luckily for me you guys took ownership of the direction and details on how this engine bay will look. You have also traveled, turned wrenches and ran errands trying to get this thing done.
I hope you enjoy your journey as much as I am enjoying mine. Right now I am the only one of my friends who's car isn't running. It will be nice to get it back on the road and enjoy driving and photographing it around the tri-state area.
After it's running I will continue to improve the car. This build probably won't ever finish. These are forever projects. Good luck with your build. PM me the thread and I will check it out.
Mike
The following users liked this post:
ZoomZoom (04-29-18)
The following users liked this post:
ZoomZoom (04-29-18)
12-28-16, 05:49 AM
#436
Had some nice weather yesterday so I replaced the Clutch master, added the SakeBomb braided clutch line and reassembled the fuel system after installing the newly Ceramic coated equal length lower intake manifold.
Did more scrubbing and cleaning in engine bay. Working a couple back to back 14 hour days this week so won't really be able to get back at it until the weekend weather permitting. I have some parts I'm waiting on to get back from powder coating and it's just reassembly now. This car could be running in a couple more weeks at best case. By end of January at worst case.
I have a few items I ordered last night. Picked up the new DEI Onyx Turbo heat shield kit. That was pricey but it looks good and I know it will perform/fit well. With all the work that has been going into this engine bay it deserved a new heat blanket and downpipe wrap to go along with the rest of the newness.
Pics will follow as the parts arrive.
Did more scrubbing and cleaning in engine bay. Working a couple back to back 14 hour days this week so won't really be able to get back at it until the weekend weather permitting. I have some parts I'm waiting on to get back from powder coating and it's just reassembly now. This car could be running in a couple more weeks at best case. By end of January at worst case.
I have a few items I ordered last night. Picked up the new DEI Onyx Turbo heat shield kit. That was pricey but it looks good and I know it will perform/fit well. With all the work that has been going into this engine bay it deserved a new heat blanket and downpipe wrap to go along with the rest of the newness.
Pics will follow as the parts arrive.
12-29-16, 01:55 PM
#437
12-29-16, 04:45 PM
#438
12-30-16, 09:15 PM
#440
Picked up a DEI Onyx Turbo blanket heat shield. It looks incredible and well made. Glad I spent the money. Prob could have got something just as functional for a fraction of the price. Made in the USA
Also got a 1.1 bar Radiator cap from Radium. $38 shipped and the sticker came scratched. If you are going to charge loot for a part then Quality Control needs to be better.
Also got a 1.1 bar Radiator cap from Radium. $38 shipped and the sticker came scratched. If you are going to charge loot for a part then Quality Control needs to be better.
12-31-16, 12:47 PM
#443
I have some nasty looking door jams and crevices with this car. This weekend I started degreasing them and there is some overspray and gummy type residue left behind still. I didn't take a before of the drivers door jam but I did with the fuel door. The drivers door jam was just like this. Haven't got to the passenger side yet. I need to adjust my door. I have to slam it to get it to close. There are instructions on how to do his innthe shop manual. You can adjust the hinges and the striker for panel gap and door adjustment. I will get back to that in the future. I'm just doodling some cleaning while I wait for the last of the parts to get coated.
I also picked up a 300mm Broadway flat Mirror for the rear view and some items I need for the silicone hose assembly.
I also picked up a 300mm Broadway flat Mirror for the rear view and some items I need for the silicone hose assembly.
12-31-16, 06:27 PM
#444
New arm rest and center console.
New oil line I got from my friend Jehan. My old one had a huge loop in it. I hated it more than anything I had on the car lol. Luckily it was an easy fix.
I will probably shorten up this Tygon line. I like the looks of this.
New oil line I got from my friend Jehan. My old one had a huge loop in it. I hated it more than anything I had on the car lol. Luckily it was an easy fix.
I will probably shorten up this Tygon line. I like the looks of this.
01-03-17, 09:22 AM
#445
Not much going on. Lots of detail work. Having some items repowdercoated because I had a two tone theme going on I didn't end up being fond of. Just going with Wrinkle Black for all but a few parts that are satin black. The gunmetal is going away.
I installed my rebuilt power steeeing pump and shortened the Tygon line from the Clutch master to the Resevior. Original length seen above. Shortened line below.
Yes I see the chip in the powder on the bracket for the PS pump. I'm going to just cover that up with a paint pen. I'm not taking this pump off again if I can help it lol.
I tried some Chemical Guys Satin interior dressing that is dry to the touch. I wiped down a kick panel I got in the mail from Goodfella and it made it look like new. These pics are 2 days after wiping them down. Dry to touch. No residue or goo.
This might be a good solution for those plastics that just look a little ashy and could use some freshening up
I installed my rebuilt power steeeing pump and shortened the Tygon line from the Clutch master to the Resevior. Original length seen above. Shortened line below.
Yes I see the chip in the powder on the bracket for the PS pump. I'm going to just cover that up with a paint pen. I'm not taking this pump off again if I can help it lol.
I tried some Chemical Guys Satin interior dressing that is dry to the touch. I wiped down a kick panel I got in the mail from Goodfella and it made it look like new. These pics are 2 days after wiping them down. Dry to touch. No residue or goo.
This might be a good solution for those plastics that just look a little ashy and could use some freshening up
01-03-17, 10:08 AM
#446
Sorry, this question was going to need a long explaination... so I am just getting to it.
So there is a hotly debated topic about the direction of the coolant system. Evans has come into the conversation. I am almost afraid to bring up the debate in here as I can't see it helping anyone... but to your question. Why the 1.1 bar cap verses the stock .9 cap. I will also add why not the 1.3 bar cap?
I will save the debate about what is best for cooling in an FD for another thread but the Evans has a high boiling point and it's a zero pressure system. Some say it's good, some say the system is designed to have pressure on both sides... compression from one side and coolant system pressure on the other to keep the coolant seals from moving.
What isn't debatable is that the higher boiling point of Evans does indeed provide a remedy for localized boiling. The rotary is plagued by this by design. The drawback to Evans is it doesn't heat transfer as well as water. Also you aren't supposed to pollute the coolant system with water and it requires a complete flush before switching over. Cost is also high but it's lifetime coolant; so if you can capture it and it's not polluted by oil etc it can be reused.
Another draw back is if you have a leak you aren't going to find Evans just anywhere so you buy extra and keep it in the car.
I am already carrying Premix, I don't really want to carry big jugs of Evans also. There is a reason I didn't want a water injection tank in the cabin. I don't like hearing liquids sloshing around in the cabin. I would probably have to pull over and pee every 30 mins hearing water sloshing.
So back to the higher boiling point..... Adding pressure to the system with water will increase the boiling point. So why not put an even higher pressure cap than 1.1 bar? There was a recall on these cars back in the day as they came with higher pressure caps from Mazda. It may have even been a 1.3 bar cap. I can't readily recall and am too lazy to go look.
Due to the rash of engine failures they brought them all in and lowered the system pressure with the cap replacement. There is some controversy about weather the system pressure was causing engine failures or if Mazda was chasing its tail on this. Plenty of aftermarket caps around with 1.1 and 1.3 bar pressure caps for the FD.... but I figured I wanted to run a water mix in the system and add a little pressure for the benefit of the higher boiling point. Not so much that it may cause problems with the coolant seals... but some added benefit to help reduce the damage caused by localized boiling.
There are benefits and drawbacks to using water mix or a waterless system like Evans.
If you are leaning towards using Evans do not let my decision dissuade you in the least but do yourself a favor and go extreme on your other subsystems like Oil coolers, radiators, ducting and fan mods, maybe even a Vented hood. The fact that the Evans does not heat transfer as well can increase the need to provide robust cooling for the other sub systems.
Because I only did the 19 row oil coolers which are about what the stock R1 has; I felt I should probably stick with water. You will see oil temps go up if your water cooling system isn't adequate. I never considered Evans in my plans when I was building my car. I may have decided to run it if I had gone with the 25 row oil coolers... but I didn't and Evans was an afterthought.
So that's the long explanation on why I am running a 1.1 bar cap.
Even the simplest things like a radiator cap sometimes have a long explanation on the choice.
So there is a hotly debated topic about the direction of the coolant system. Evans has come into the conversation. I am almost afraid to bring up the debate in here as I can't see it helping anyone... but to your question. Why the 1.1 bar cap verses the stock .9 cap. I will also add why not the 1.3 bar cap?
I will save the debate about what is best for cooling in an FD for another thread but the Evans has a high boiling point and it's a zero pressure system. Some say it's good, some say the system is designed to have pressure on both sides... compression from one side and coolant system pressure on the other to keep the coolant seals from moving.
What isn't debatable is that the higher boiling point of Evans does indeed provide a remedy for localized boiling. The rotary is plagued by this by design. The drawback to Evans is it doesn't heat transfer as well as water. Also you aren't supposed to pollute the coolant system with water and it requires a complete flush before switching over. Cost is also high but it's lifetime coolant; so if you can capture it and it's not polluted by oil etc it can be reused.
Another draw back is if you have a leak you aren't going to find Evans just anywhere so you buy extra and keep it in the car.
I am already carrying Premix, I don't really want to carry big jugs of Evans also. There is a reason I didn't want a water injection tank in the cabin. I don't like hearing liquids sloshing around in the cabin. I would probably have to pull over and pee every 30 mins hearing water sloshing.
So back to the higher boiling point..... Adding pressure to the system with water will increase the boiling point. So why not put an even higher pressure cap than 1.1 bar? There was a recall on these cars back in the day as they came with higher pressure caps from Mazda. It may have even been a 1.3 bar cap. I can't readily recall and am too lazy to go look.
Due to the rash of engine failures they brought them all in and lowered the system pressure with the cap replacement. There is some controversy about weather the system pressure was causing engine failures or if Mazda was chasing its tail on this. Plenty of aftermarket caps around with 1.1 and 1.3 bar pressure caps for the FD.... but I figured I wanted to run a water mix in the system and add a little pressure for the benefit of the higher boiling point. Not so much that it may cause problems with the coolant seals... but some added benefit to help reduce the damage caused by localized boiling.
There are benefits and drawbacks to using water mix or a waterless system like Evans.
If you are leaning towards using Evans do not let my decision dissuade you in the least but do yourself a favor and go extreme on your other subsystems like Oil coolers, radiators, ducting and fan mods, maybe even a Vented hood. The fact that the Evans does not heat transfer as well can increase the need to provide robust cooling for the other sub systems.
Because I only did the 19 row oil coolers which are about what the stock R1 has; I felt I should probably stick with water. You will see oil temps go up if your water cooling system isn't adequate. I never considered Evans in my plans when I was building my car. I may have decided to run it if I had gone with the 25 row oil coolers... but I didn't and Evans was an afterthought.
So that's the long explanation on why I am running a 1.1 bar cap.
Even the simplest things like a radiator cap sometimes have a long explanation on the choice.
01-03-17, 10:08 PM
#447
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Mike, I had wiped that interior panel down a few times with some Back to Black and it didn't help all that much. That Chemical Bro's stuff seems like the Bee's Knees as the saying goes.
Also, I know of a few guys who are running around with Evans and OEM hoods and no problems..... even in the Flawda summer days of 100+ degrees
Also, I know of a few guys who are running around with Evans and OEM hoods and no problems..... even in the Flawda summer days of 100+ degrees
01-04-17, 07:37 AM
#448
Mike, I had wiped that interior panel down a few times with some Back to Black and it didn't help all that much. That Chemical Bro's stuff seems like the Bee's Knees as the saying goes.
Also, I know of a few guys who are running around with Evans and OEM hoods and no problems..... even in the Flawda summer days of 100+ degrees
Also, I know of a few guys who are running around with Evans and OEM hoods and no problems..... even in the Flawda summer days of 100+ degrees
I feels that Evans has a benefit that water just can't provide. But it has its drawbacks. I see it as a trade off. It may be the better trade off. I am leaving the debate open. There are def 2 camps on this. These are the types of decisions people need to make on each build. I just didn't upgrade my oil coolers as big so I leaned towards not using it.
Had I maxed out on the other cooling systems in the car maybe I would have leaned towards the Evans more. I just had not thought that far ahead before buying those parts on my build.
The price actually factored into this equation the least. It may be what keeps most people away but it wasn't the case here. I don't believe in being pennywise and pound foooish. It really came down to a lack of planning to compensate for running Evans.
I don't know if it matters either way as plenty of long running cars run water. While it seems like a small consideration I can tell you it was one of the more talked about items of the build between my friends and I.
01-04-17, 07:49 AM
#449
The Generic Condenser (CNFP1124kt) arrived today and it is almost exactly the dimensions of the stock one. Looks like the Greddy Vmount brackets will be used with very little modification. A couple adapter pieces and maybe a couple spacers and it should work out fine. I will try to show the process as it progresses. Here are some photos of how closely it is in dimensions and mounting locations.
Here it is stacked on old condenser
The new condenser should be flipped for exact comparison but you can see the mount points are not even. That is where the spacers will come into play.
Close, very close. Some flat aluminum stock should make this easy
This condenser with Drier was around $45. An exact replacement on auction site and Amazon is asking $1k.
Don't do that to yourself.
Will make some custom lines or have a shop make them after mounting it and that will be that.
Here it is stacked on old condenser
The new condenser should be flipped for exact comparison but you can see the mount points are not even. That is where the spacers will come into play.
Close, very close. Some flat aluminum stock should make this easy
This condenser with Drier was around $45. An exact replacement on auction site and Amazon is asking $1k.
Don't do that to yourself.
Will make some custom lines or have a shop make them after mounting it and that will be that.
01-04-17, 12:54 PM
#450
Very interested to see how the Generic condenser work out for you, I want to run AC with the GReddy V-mount, but I need to replace the condenser because one of the line is completely seized on there.