ZoomZoom's CYM- Imported from Canada; a Journey Begins... Again.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,818
Likes: 656
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
^The bay's looking pretty good in that last shot bud 
That heater hose on the DP is definitely no bueno, recommend safety wire to keep the hose away from the hot stuff. Definitely replace that DEI fire sleeve too

That heater hose on the DP is definitely no bueno, recommend safety wire to keep the hose away from the hot stuff. Definitely replace that DEI fire sleeve too
My friends have been engine bay shaming me on how dirty it is so I've been trying to clean it as I work around it. It's made me squeeze my hands in places they shouldn't fit. But the results are starting to get more respectable. I still have a long way to go. But it's a start.
Just curious to know why you chose to run a FPD? I've never run one since switching over to my single setup and have had no issues with oscillating fuel pressure. Are others using these? Just curious. Great build BTW
Thanks Zoom
There's a thread in the single turbo section that showed issues with fuel pressure variations on pretty typical fuel setups. These fpd's are inexpensive enough, so I'm adding one to my setup.
There's a thread in the single turbo section that showed issues with fuel pressure variations on pretty typical fuel setups. These fpd's are inexpensive enough, so I'm adding one to my setup.
It's worth the look at C Ludwig's observations here. https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...tions-1090373/
Last edited by ZoomZoom; Jun 27, 2016 at 05:58 AM. Reason: Adding link
That's exactly right and it shouldn't surprise anyone really. There is good reason that OEM's all have them; somewhere along the line it became common practice to delete them. It doesn't mean it didn't come without a consequence. I think they are especially important in a staged injection system like we have.
It's worth the look at C Ludwig's observations here. https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...tions-1090373/
It's worth the look at C Ludwig's observations here. https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...tions-1090373/
In today's delivery I got the new Tial Q 50mm BOV. I am systematically changing the engine bay over from the blue anodized pulleys and BOV and going to a more subtle black. I bought the powder for my buddy to powder coat the upper and lower but he got busy with race season and my attempt to get the manifold and TB polished didn't work out.
I decided to wait on the powdercoat until winter and will do much more of the hard parts in a wrinkle black. I believe I bought enough to do most of what I want.
Still cleaning the bay, it's pretty narly with a black sludge coating the hard to reach areas. I don't know how well I will get it clean. It will be a candidate for an engine bay respray if that motor ever comes out.
Here are some shots of the BOV. I picked it up from Norcal Auto. He goes by GNX7 on the forum. I've purchased several parts from him when I had my swapped FD. He is extremely knowledgable as he has done many many swaps. He also builds some wild stuff including a 1200hp Turbo LS9 FD that runs low 9's and probably 8's this year.
He also sells plenty of non swap parts so hit him up. Super good guy and always a pleasure to deal with.

I decided to wait on the powdercoat until winter and will do much more of the hard parts in a wrinkle black. I believe I bought enough to do most of what I want.
Still cleaning the bay, it's pretty narly with a black sludge coating the hard to reach areas. I don't know how well I will get it clean. It will be a candidate for an engine bay respray if that motor ever comes out.
Here are some shots of the BOV. I picked it up from Norcal Auto. He goes by GNX7 on the forum. I've purchased several parts from him when I had my swapped FD. He is extremely knowledgable as he has done many many swaps. He also builds some wild stuff including a 1200hp Turbo LS9 FD that runs low 9's and probably 8's this year.
He also sells plenty of non swap parts so hit him up. Super good guy and always a pleasure to deal with.

Last edited by ZoomZoom; Jun 29, 2016 at 07:08 PM.
I have some used 99 spec tails I picked up from Matt Gold. Used ones always have swirls marks and scratches. I knew what I was getting and Matt and I exchanged parts and some cash. I picked up some Plast-X product that's made to remove scratches in plastic. I had tried using it by hand but that was going to be a big job. I picked up a cheap Ryobi orbital polisher. I taped off around the tail lights with blue painters tape. You don't want to get the Plast_X on painted surfaces.
It didn't get out the deep scratches but it cut right thru the swirls. It works but if you want your tail lights to look new you will need to wet sand first and work your way to polishing. I would say this removed 90-95% of imperfections. Good enough for me. I can get the rest when the car is ready to detail and I will wet sand.
Before

Before

Before

After

After
It didn't get out the deep scratches but it cut right thru the swirls. It works but if you want your tail lights to look new you will need to wet sand first and work your way to polishing. I would say this removed 90-95% of imperfections. Good enough for me. I can get the rest when the car is ready to detail and I will wet sand.
Before

Before

Before

After

After
Well my V Mount is sitting at the UPS depot thru the holiday weekend. Will have to get that next week. Meanwhile I have been buying parts like a mad man and went for a drive with my buddy in his car. Tossed me Keys and gave me the wheel... More on that later.
So with the new Oil filler neck I have a -10AN bung for running a catch can. I planned to go all race car on that and plumb the overflow into the oil return for the now deleted secondary turbo for when it had stock twins. Because I kinda need something now and not yet sure where I will mount it I didn't want to buy a bunch of fittings and lines as not sure where I will have room.
So the problem is you need at least a 1 Quart catch can as per rules for SCCA and NASA etc. for good reason. They don't want oil on the track. Catch cans fill up quickly on track and the RX-7's will nearly fill a 1 quart catch can during a 20min session. You can overcome this issue with a 3 port can with the overflow going back into the pan via the secondary turbo return.
So I didn't do this, I picked up a larger can for now. I may change this for a 1'quart later on if I can't fit this or if it fills up quickly on track and I will just return the overflow with a smaller tank.
So the tank I picked up is a vented tank. All the pretty ones are too small and don't meet the rules and won't pass tech inspection.
It was from Summit racing. Will powder coat it wrinkle black once that process begins.
1.5 Quart can

Also picked up the -10an to 3/4NTP fitting for the tank.

I picked this up for my oil filler neck. It's a Mishimoto Banjo. Plan to use it right off the oil filler neck. Looks too cool not to.

I had to feed my inner Ricer. That Banjo is stupid expensive for what it is.
Gotta keep up the trend of replacing the old, rusty, tired parts or ones that won't clean up easily. So i have been eyeing the Banzai aluminum pulleys for a while. I've put them and the idler in my cart a few times not to pull the trigger. Well I got the pulleys today. I didn't get the pineapple idler. I grabbed the Full Function engineering part that matched better and doesn't have bearing issues.
Banzia Alum pulleys

FFE Idler
So with the new Oil filler neck I have a -10AN bung for running a catch can. I planned to go all race car on that and plumb the overflow into the oil return for the now deleted secondary turbo for when it had stock twins. Because I kinda need something now and not yet sure where I will mount it I didn't want to buy a bunch of fittings and lines as not sure where I will have room.
So the problem is you need at least a 1 Quart catch can as per rules for SCCA and NASA etc. for good reason. They don't want oil on the track. Catch cans fill up quickly on track and the RX-7's will nearly fill a 1 quart catch can during a 20min session. You can overcome this issue with a 3 port can with the overflow going back into the pan via the secondary turbo return.
So I didn't do this, I picked up a larger can for now. I may change this for a 1'quart later on if I can't fit this or if it fills up quickly on track and I will just return the overflow with a smaller tank.
So the tank I picked up is a vented tank. All the pretty ones are too small and don't meet the rules and won't pass tech inspection.
It was from Summit racing. Will powder coat it wrinkle black once that process begins.
1.5 Quart can

Also picked up the -10an to 3/4NTP fitting for the tank.

I picked this up for my oil filler neck. It's a Mishimoto Banjo. Plan to use it right off the oil filler neck. Looks too cool not to.

I had to feed my inner Ricer. That Banjo is stupid expensive for what it is.
Gotta keep up the trend of replacing the old, rusty, tired parts or ones that won't clean up easily. So i have been eyeing the Banzai aluminum pulleys for a while. I've put them and the idler in my cart a few times not to pull the trigger. Well I got the pulleys today. I didn't get the pineapple idler. I grabbed the Full Function engineering part that matched better and doesn't have bearing issues.
Banzia Alum pulleys

FFE Idler
Last edited by ZoomZoom; Jul 3, 2016 at 07:57 PM.
Here is something I am really excited about. The SakeBomb twin oil cooler kit. I am opting for the 19 row coolers and upgraded Black Nylon lines. I like the stuff these guys do and I am always pleased with the level of Quality in their products. I am happy to support Forum sponsors when I can.


Check out their sub forum. There is a group buy on this product going on right now.


Check out their sub forum. There is a group buy on this product going on right now.
Last edited by ZoomZoom; Jul 3, 2016 at 08:12 PM.
Oh yeah so that reminded me. Speaking of Bill Baller. Buddy of mine was having some idle issue and wanted to me to have a look at the car. I am no old school carb expert but said I would check it out and take it for a spin. I'm a good friend after all 
So here is my friends car that was having the issue
1967 Corvette.


I rode along at first and sure enough it would stall at nearly every stop unless we gave it throttle. I priced out a tune up and looked up all the specs for the stock timing. He wants to try his usual shop again and then we may have to take things into our own hands. I drove it on way back. It gets a few looks...
Not a bad way to spend a Sunday. Small clip for sound.

So here is my friends car that was having the issue
1967 Corvette.


I rode along at first and sure enough it would stall at nearly every stop unless we gave it throttle. I priced out a tune up and looked up all the specs for the stock timing. He wants to try his usual shop again and then we may have to take things into our own hands. I drove it on way back. It gets a few looks...
Not a bad way to spend a Sunday. Small clip for sound.
If you look hard enough around your car you will find a hundred things that need attention. These lug nuts have bothered me. Sure I could rattle can the inside of these and prob wouldn't even notice. But what fun is that?

I'm thinking the typical aluminum tuner set in black. M12x1.5. Any suggestions before I pull the trigger?
Also my brakes will be getting replaced with the SakeBomb AP Racing kit. Not going to happen until this winter. May have to throw some caliper paint on these stockers until then. They are looking a bit rough.

My dog is like.. Why you always in the garage? Just snapped this pic.
My 16 year old Jack Russell Terrier "Libby" she turned 16 a couple months ago. I picked her up from the breeder 16 years ago today. Been my best buddy since I had my first FD. 3 FD's, 2 serious relationships and 3 moves across 3 states and here we are
decided to stay out of the garage and hang with her today all day. There is always work to do on the car but just not today.

I'm thinking the typical aluminum tuner set in black. M12x1.5. Any suggestions before I pull the trigger?
Also my brakes will be getting replaced with the SakeBomb AP Racing kit. Not going to happen until this winter. May have to throw some caliper paint on these stockers until then. They are looking a bit rough.

My dog is like.. Why you always in the garage? Just snapped this pic.
My 16 year old Jack Russell Terrier "Libby" she turned 16 a couple months ago. I picked her up from the breeder 16 years ago today. Been my best buddy since I had my first FD. 3 FD's, 2 serious relationships and 3 moves across 3 states and here we are
decided to stay out of the garage and hang with her today all day. There is always work to do on the car but just not today.
Nice, I was considering taking my dogs out to the river to go swimming today. I run ARP studs and Muteki SR48, the number in that series corresponds to the overall length of the lug they are forged and lightweight they don't seem to mark up easily either
Since you're going with all these other nice new black quality parts, and appreciate details- How about some matching WORK RSR open ended Lugnuts:
WORK RS-R Type (Open End) Black Lug Nuts
WORK RS-R Type (Open End) Black Lug Nuts
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,818
Likes: 656
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Great shot of Libby, behind every great FD build is a supportive Pooch 
Mike, I love the McGard Spline Drive floating lugs...... every one is a lock, and they won't mar the seating surface on the wheel. Can't beat them:
OAKOS Automotive - STi & WRX Performance Parts: McGard Spline Drive Lugs (Black, 12x1.5mm, Set/20)

Mike, I love the McGard Spline Drive floating lugs...... every one is a lock, and they won't mar the seating surface on the wheel. Can't beat them:
OAKOS Automotive - STi & WRX Performance Parts: McGard Spline Drive Lugs (Black, 12x1.5mm, Set/20)
















