Mannykillers/ AAPARKAH Street/time Attack/Drift Build (heavy Pics) #Thisisthewolf
you know.. i've kinda just stopped giving myself deadlines.. that shiii just works against me for the most part because I never make them haha. It's best to just take my time and when the car's ready to start... then it's ready to start. And when it's ready to paint.. it's ready to paint.. etc etc etc.. I just want to have a great platform. I'll most likely be driving around one hell of a performing car before it actually looks good. Paint and body will be last.
But My IC core came in.. looks pretty nice.. but forgot to take pics. It measures the same as most Greddy 2 row cores. I think it's close to 24ish"x16ish" with a 3" core... Seems like a nice piece.
I'll take pics asap. Also got my EGT kit's in....
Powered by Max/GT factory (2) EVDM displays, 2 Probe/sensor/line kits =-) they're bad ***.... best thing is.. they're Nice and compact and don't look extra gaudy like a lot of egt displays out there. Great price too..
oh and I picked up a 94 roller if anyone wants a nice clean 94 rolling shell... just let me know.. she's for sale =-)
All i can say is the body is ssssstteeeeeerraaaaiiiiiiiggggghhhhhtttt! beautiful paint too!
- ap
But My IC core came in.. looks pretty nice.. but forgot to take pics. It measures the same as most Greddy 2 row cores. I think it's close to 24ish"x16ish" with a 3" core... Seems like a nice piece.
I'll take pics asap. Also got my EGT kit's in....
Powered by Max/GT factory (2) EVDM displays, 2 Probe/sensor/line kits =-) they're bad ***.... best thing is.. they're Nice and compact and don't look extra gaudy like a lot of egt displays out there. Great price too..
oh and I picked up a 94 roller if anyone wants a nice clean 94 rolling shell... just let me know.. she's for sale =-)
All i can say is the body is ssssstteeeeeerraaaaiiiiiiiggggghhhhhtttt! beautiful paint too!
- ap
^me too, they'll get the job done and look nice too =-)
I know everyone thinks i'm crazy but my fab guy swears by this stuff.
Manifold tube:
0.065 Wall 304 Stainless Steel
I know everyone thinks i'm crazy but my fab guy swears by this stuff.
Manifold tube:
0.065 Wall 304 Stainless Steel
Umm that 304 is not going to hold up to well over time. There is nothing wrong with thin wall tubing as long as its not supporting the weight of the turbo. You might want to setup up to 321 stainless or thicker wall 304.
^ very good question. the 0.065 was a mistake and I actually decided to go with .080 and a nice little external Brace to keep things nice and sturdy and not crack.
P.s. I'm copying your coil set up =-) your using the twin power along with? or not at all?
P.s. I'm copying your coil set up =-) your using the twin power along with? or not at all?
You do not use any ignition amplifier with the IGN-1A setup.
Taken from this thread https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/aem-ign-1a-mercury-marine-ignition-coil-info-install-992444/
Taken from this thread https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/aem-ign-1a-mercury-marine-ignition-coil-info-install-992444/
For those asking about a CDI or "amp", with the IGN-1A/smart coil, this is not even an option. The built-in ignitor precludes the use of any kind of external device. As has been stated in the posts quoting our site, the coil is capable of outputting anywhere from around a 100mJ up to 250mJ based on dwell. Again for comparison, the common MSD 6A, M&W street, and Dynatech boxes are rated around 100-125mJ. This coil can deliver the same spark energy at a relatively low dwell period AND delivery a spark duration than is several times longer than any CDI. They really are the best of both worlds.
I can sell you an M&W box, and stand to profit a whole lot more, but the IGN-1A coils will produce more spark energy than most will ever need, are a relatively inexpensive choice, and have the potential to produce a better idle and low engine speed response because of a longer spark duration than any CDI.
The quoted peak output requires a dwell time of around 6ms. The coil can NOT be run at a constant dwell time of 6ms under continuous operation. It will fail. The most dwell we recommend for continuous operation is 4.5ms. Many aftermarket ECUs only allow a single, universal dwell setting. In this case, you need to select the highest setting that will allow the coil to live under continuous duty operation. Higher end ECUs allow mappable dwell, and in this case you can charge the coil harder on demand. For instance you would charge the coil around 3.0ms under normal loads but ramp dwell up versus boost and have more potential ignition energy available under high loads when it's needed.
Lastly, RENESISFD's comment that the coil would not fire at the correct time if it were charged too long is not accurate. The coils do NOT auto discharge like a few inductive coils are known to the do. If cycle time at high RPM becomes less than the requested charge time, you will simply not achieve the requested dwell time. Spark instant will remain the same.
I can sell you an M&W box, and stand to profit a whole lot more, but the IGN-1A coils will produce more spark energy than most will ever need, are a relatively inexpensive choice, and have the potential to produce a better idle and low engine speed response because of a longer spark duration than any CDI.
The quoted peak output requires a dwell time of around 6ms. The coil can NOT be run at a constant dwell time of 6ms under continuous operation. It will fail. The most dwell we recommend for continuous operation is 4.5ms. Many aftermarket ECUs only allow a single, universal dwell setting. In this case, you need to select the highest setting that will allow the coil to live under continuous duty operation. Higher end ECUs allow mappable dwell, and in this case you can charge the coil harder on demand. For instance you would charge the coil around 3.0ms under normal loads but ramp dwell up versus boost and have more potential ignition energy available under high loads when it's needed.
Lastly, RENESISFD's comment that the coil would not fire at the correct time if it were charged too long is not accurate. The coils do NOT auto discharge like a few inductive coils are known to the do. If cycle time at high RPM becomes less than the requested charge time, you will simply not achieve the requested dwell time. Spark instant will remain the same.
Last edited by RENESISFD; Jun 27, 2012 at 06:06 PM.
Thinking closer to the frame rail or possibly on the firewall. Maybe even close to where you have them there where the igniter goes... If you could do it again would you change the location.
- Ap
- Ap
If I would have to do it over again; I would put them in the same spot.
There is not much room for them anywhere else because of the A/C and the power steering. I did not want to mount them on top of the engine.
There is not much room for them anywhere else because of the A/C and the power steering. I did not want to mount them on top of the engine.
I dont know how long. I made them myself because then I could make sure they were the right length. I always measure wrong so it was insurance against a setback. Plus I wanted to say I made them. It is not hard if you can splice wires you can make spark plug wires
Wow thats a late reply
.Any new updates?
Alrighty: so i've been a little busy with work etc.. and life and my little side business...but I did manage to get some work done on the car.
You know my damn seat just wasn't low enough and couldn't go back enough for me to actually feel comfortable... plus my helmet was pretty much touching the roof. So we junked my bride slider rails and made some fixed rails.
Found some metal and cut it to the correct specs..
used a pressurized bending machine to put some angle on the metal
drilled some mounting holes
These are actually the first set I messed up on.. I didn't make them long enough for the amount of adjustability I wanted. But I made the second set the same way...just a bit longer.. =-)
after they were all tacked up.. bj got to welding and whaaalaaah
will probly make some height adjustable plates for the sides..but for the time being I'm happy...and yea I know I have long arms and legs...
clears the door panel
You know my damn seat just wasn't low enough and couldn't go back enough for me to actually feel comfortable... plus my helmet was pretty much touching the roof. So we junked my bride slider rails and made some fixed rails.
Found some metal and cut it to the correct specs..
used a pressurized bending machine to put some angle on the metal
drilled some mounting holes
These are actually the first set I messed up on.. I didn't make them long enough for the amount of adjustability I wanted. But I made the second set the same way...just a bit longer.. =-)
after they were all tacked up.. bj got to welding and whaaalaaah
will probly make some height adjustable plates for the sides..but for the time being I'm happy...and yea I know I have long arms and legs...
clears the door panel
After the seating position was done and the seat was fixed to where I felt most comfy..
We started tackling the fun stuff. Manifold design and V-mount
So we had the whole manifold mocked up with my vision of the manifold and how I wanted it to work and perform. But I came to the shop this morning and bj had the whole thing Tacked to the way He said would work best..but keeping in mind that we could no longer have anything over 14 degrees of angle on the turbo for warranty reasons..and the manifold would be utilizing to MONSTER wastegates. He explained it to me like this.. since we are using 2 large gates.. you won't need the most flow oriented position to the gates. They're so big.. they're gonna do what thye were ment to...and that's letting pressure go.. He explained it a bit better. But I trust the guy with all his experience and I'm VERY happy and delighted at how the manifold came out.
no more angle at all..
From the front:
Then we got to brainstorming the V-mount...but we needed more room. So we cut the front support off.
Then Bj scribbled some plans for the twin pass radiator using an Intercooler core
IC about to go under a gender change haha
We started tackling the fun stuff. Manifold design and V-mount
So we had the whole manifold mocked up with my vision of the manifold and how I wanted it to work and perform. But I came to the shop this morning and bj had the whole thing Tacked to the way He said would work best..but keeping in mind that we could no longer have anything over 14 degrees of angle on the turbo for warranty reasons..and the manifold would be utilizing to MONSTER wastegates. He explained it to me like this.. since we are using 2 large gates.. you won't need the most flow oriented position to the gates. They're so big.. they're gonna do what thye were ment to...and that's letting pressure go.. He explained it a bit better. But I trust the guy with all his experience and I'm VERY happy and delighted at how the manifold came out.
no more angle at all..
From the front:
Then we got to brainstorming the V-mount...but we needed more room. So we cut the front support off.
Then Bj scribbled some plans for the twin pass radiator using an Intercooler core
IC about to go under a gender change haha