Mannykillers/ AAPARKAH Street/time Attack/Drift Build (heavy Pics) #Thisisthewolf
hahaha...sweet man. My buddy evan has it too. My girlfriend gets mad when I wear it because she says I look too black for her....wtf? lol
sweet man. That should be easy enough. But just incase.. I'll keep my eye out for a good deal on another avc-r for you... ;-)
Oh ok, if you're using the PFC then a separate boost controller makes a lot of sense.
My **** is nothing special, I'll post pics once I get it mounted. All it is is a 3 position switch that is connected to the ECU and controls the boost control solenoid duty cycle.
The middle position of the **** position is whatever the duty cycle table is set at in the ECU (a 16x16 table for rpm vs. psi, adjusted during tuning). This is my low boost but higher than wastegate setting.
The first position of the **** will be set to reduce duty cycle to 0 (turning the solenoid off and allowing the car to run on wastegate pressure only). The input in the computer is a percentage. So I enter in -100% to zero out all of the values that determine the duty cycle.
The third position of the **** will be similar to the first, except it will be a + percentage. During tuning, we'll start of at a 5% increase, and work our way up to whatever percentage gives me my targeted high boost, probably 22-24 psi.
After everything is tuned, I just turn the **** to whatever setting I want and voila! I'll probably end up with 11-12psi wastegate, 17psi low boost, and 22-24psi high boost (if my egt's are too high at 24 psi I'll stop at 22).
It's definitely not as user friendly as a stand alone boost controller, but 3 options is enough for me, and it should be a pretty wide range of power options (a little over 300 to hopefully a little over 500)
My **** is nothing special, I'll post pics once I get it mounted. All it is is a 3 position switch that is connected to the ECU and controls the boost control solenoid duty cycle.
The middle position of the **** position is whatever the duty cycle table is set at in the ECU (a 16x16 table for rpm vs. psi, adjusted during tuning). This is my low boost but higher than wastegate setting.
The first position of the **** will be set to reduce duty cycle to 0 (turning the solenoid off and allowing the car to run on wastegate pressure only). The input in the computer is a percentage. So I enter in -100% to zero out all of the values that determine the duty cycle.
The third position of the **** will be similar to the first, except it will be a + percentage. During tuning, we'll start of at a 5% increase, and work our way up to whatever percentage gives me my targeted high boost, probably 22-24 psi.
After everything is tuned, I just turn the **** to whatever setting I want and voila! I'll probably end up with 11-12psi wastegate, 17psi low boost, and 22-24psi high boost (if my egt's are too high at 24 psi I'll stop at 22).
It's definitely not as user friendly as a stand alone boost controller, but 3 options is enough for me, and it should be a pretty wide range of power options (a little over 300 to hopefully a little over 500)
sweet man. That should be easy enough. But just incase.. I'll keep my eye out for a good deal on another avc-r for you... ;-)
. There were a few reasons why I went to the haltech
1. IQ3 dash ( main reason)
2. Log EGT through Haltech and can set up ignition/ fuel corrections
3. Engine protection I.E. oil pressure low, shut off engine.
4. LOG Wideband through Haltech and can set up ignition/ fuel corrections
5. FFE high resolution trigger wheel and hall effect sensor.
6. MUCH easier (for me) software so I can tune the car my self with less worry.
7. Can control auxiliary injection.
8. Once I sold my PFC and datalogit the Haltech was $700 more (not including the price of the IQ3 and Wideband), So to me, for that $700 it was definitely worth it and I am very happy.
I was not mainly concerned with making more power. Of course it all comes down to the tuner and what he is comfortable with. I felt more comfortable using the haltech software it is more intuitive and user friendly.
Any way I am done clogging up your build thread with my BS.
Good luck on the rest of the build, I am anxious to see your results.
Got a tutorial in sheet metal machines yesterday. These machines make things so much easier it's not even funny. Found some scrap sheet metal...flattened it out, measured it to 36/12 for my inner fender liners, cut it up,....and after work today I'll head over there and hopefully get them welded in.
scrap sheet
Cutter
More pics later... more updates as well.
scrap sheet
Cutter
More pics later... more updates as well.
Ohhhh....I've been wanting do something similar...can't wait to see how this turns out!
Edit: Did you ever get the size for the nuts? I might be able to measure tonight if not. They are probably like $5 from Ray. =)
Edit: Did you ever get the size for the nuts? I might be able to measure tonight if not. They are probably like $5 from Ray. =)
I'll have better finished updates on this after a week or so. I've been pretty busy at work as of late
Update: ...not much but a bunch of little stuff knocked off the list =-)
Fenders ready for over fender install
first
sheet metal cut
fitted
trimmed and fitted more
Ready to tack weld into place and full weld once clearance is confirmed. Cut about 2-1/4 inches off the top of the fener and it lines up almost perfectly with the frame rail. Abou 10 O'clock 3 O'clock about 1-1/2 inches off and it tapers to 0 from there. I figured this is well over enough clearance for the wheel/tire to hit.
Still waiting for my rims to come in.. kinda frustrating but waiting on people has become the name of the game. My guy is always on top of things... the distributors always seem to laggggg ***.
Also cut the inner lip off my fenders for more tire clearance. Not even sure if i'll stay with these fenders... they fit like big ol bag of dicks..
Fenders ready for over fender install
first
sheet metal cut
fitted
trimmed and fitted more
Ready to tack weld into place and full weld once clearance is confirmed. Cut about 2-1/4 inches off the top of the fener and it lines up almost perfectly with the frame rail. Abou 10 O'clock 3 O'clock about 1-1/2 inches off and it tapers to 0 from there. I figured this is well over enough clearance for the wheel/tire to hit.
Still waiting for my rims to come in.. kinda frustrating but waiting on people has become the name of the game. My guy is always on top of things... the distributors always seem to laggggg ***.
Also cut the inner lip off my fenders for more tire clearance. Not even sure if i'll stay with these fenders... they fit like big ol bag of dicks..
Finished the following:
fuel feed line all the way to rail Y-block
Fuel Return line
Power steering Relocation
Fenders Ready for Weld
More updates asap. Trying to get my fab guy on the ball for the turbo manifold/IC/Rad V-mount set up.
^john. I may be working tomorrow.. but i'll let you know if i'm over there tomorrow morn..
haha. big ol bag a floppy dicks haha. I feel like i'm actually disrespecting my car by putting ill fitting parts on it. I don't mind if its knock off aero...as long as it fits. I mean in the end.. who doesn't like pretty looking things?
haha. big ol bag a floppy dicks haha. I feel like i'm actually disrespecting my car by putting ill fitting parts on it. I don't mind if its knock off aero...as long as it fits. I mean in the end.. who doesn't like pretty looking things?
What's up Manny. Firstly, nice build! Secondly, I'm loving the intake manifold set up. I actually bought the cosmo upper and lower to put on mine. I just have to port match.Anyways, I'm about to buy the set of bushings for my FD and was wondering if it's a complete set? It contains everything right? To my knowledge, I would only have to buy bushings for the toe link inners and trailing arms? I think?
^ sorry not entirely sure what your asking.. But you can get the whole kit or individual bushings. I'd recommend you get all new pillow ***** first though.. then bushings. Guaranteed the pillows are shot on almost any 19 year old fd.
Other news.. a few small updates. Been working a lot lately so haven't gotten to spend much time on the build.
Lined up the gasket on the Excessive LIM..and puke.. haha
Went to work porting... this was my first time..and bj gave me a hell of a tutorial and directions on how to get it done and done right.
All etched out
progress
finished!
found out one of the rail mount holes is stripped out.. which is a major bummer because i'll have to tap it and i'm pretty sure finding allen bolts this side is going to be a royal pain
I did however pull the press in caps for the Excessive LIM extra injector bungs out, tap the bungs and put in some good ol Drain plugs with permatex thread sealer.
Other news.. a few small updates. Been working a lot lately so haven't gotten to spend much time on the build.
Lined up the gasket on the Excessive LIM..and puke.. haha
Went to work porting... this was my first time..and bj gave me a hell of a tutorial and directions on how to get it done and done right.
All etched out
progress
finished!
found out one of the rail mount holes is stripped out.. which is a major bummer because i'll have to tap it and i'm pretty sure finding allen bolts this side is going to be a royal pain
I did however pull the press in caps for the Excessive LIM extra injector bungs out, tap the bungs and put in some good ol Drain plugs with permatex thread sealer.
and comparison pictures before porting and after. I must say the etching really does help out a lot and I must thank BJ for teaching me how to do things the right way. I'm all for getting the job done however you can...but with the right tools and right methods.. things seem to go much smoother and the end product seems to come out better.
Before[
IMG]http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy325/mannykiller/FD%20Build/IMAG0764.jpg[/IMG]
Check it foo... After
Also pulled out the injector diffusors I trimmed and put Full Function Engineering Injector spacers in my primary ports. ......which one's would you use? haha
Sorry for the confusion. I was just wondering if the kit replaced all bushings. I did a little more searching and found a complete powerflex kit. The pillow ***** are definitely getting replaced also 
^ rad man.. like I said,.....if your car feels a little sloppy... depending on how many miles or on the chassis.. I would 9 times out of ten replace the pillow ***** first. The bushings will help..but the pillow ***** will make the biggest difference. Another thing to look at is your PPF (power plant frame). check it for cracks while your down there. If you havn't read Howard Colemans Suspension thread in the suspension/wheels/tires section... you should check it out. Has a baunch load of useful information. Good luck!!
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,785
Likes: 145
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Man I wanted to do the same thing with those extra injector buns on mine too but I couldn't find a bolt the right size. I'll be damned, a drain plug haha. Never thought of that. Good thing you did that. One of my freeze plugs blew out twice under boost, so I'm looking for a more permanent solution like this. Awesome man, I'm gonna go find some drain plugs now haha. Thanks!
The porting looks good too!
The porting looks good too!
