got a small update.

Needed to fix my seating position because it just didn't feel right. I have bride rails.. but they arent low max rails.. So i cut the front mounting points and took an inch out of the height.


love the welding shots

Finished

 

Looks awesome man, can't wait to see the finished product!

 

test fit for the modified seat rial: Check
Satisfied.......................................NO

Even with the rail slid all the way back... I still feel too close. I'm going to be cutting the seat mounts off and making new mounts . Comfort is really important to me and I really don't want to be worrying about anything other than driving while i'm in the car. Realistically..I'd like to be about 4/5 inches further back in the car. This will be my target position.


and yes...I know... the carpet is disgusting.. I hate it

 

This is the best shot you'll have at switching to a nice black carpet

 

For cereal!

http://www.auto-interior.com/Mazda10.htm

$131.55 + $60 for mass backing (seriously recommended)

Can't beat that deal with a stick. Fits pretty good too!

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=112

Lane

 

wow.. thats a serious deal.. thanks for that! gonna decide whether or not to keep the carpet and go deal with it then..

 

epic, EPIC thread.

I just spent 2 hours reading each and every post.

Truly an inspiration when I decide to dig deep in to my build.

BTW...Greetings from California City! Let me know if you need an extra set of eyes on anything or a "cheerleader" lol. I'll bring beer!

 

Just get the orange carpet out of there already.

 

I know I know.. it just seems everytime I work on the car i'm doing something mechanical. I figure once I get the car mechanically sound.. I'll work more heavily on comfort and my asthetics. I've done a few things to compensate...but it's either black carpet.. or no carpet. I love the idea of no carpet..but I hate the floorboards.. they're so uneven. We'll see.


Thank you so much, that really means a lot to me!

 

Little bit of an update:

I FINALLY FOUND AN EXCESSIVE LIM!!!!
Thanks to Allrotor3 for funneling the entire world of japanese/american performance parts developed for our fd's through his business.
Got it for a great deal! I'm all for used parts!
Before

After sand blasting

Before

after


test fit

All is well and luckily I fabbed everything with the half inch forward resting place of the uim. Everything fell into place just right and there's enough room for everything with the P/S relocation, alternator power supply etc. Going to port match the LIM inlets and outlets and eventually wrap the thing with heat shielding but this was a piece i've been looking for for a while. I always seemed to find one too late on the forum and I absolutely refused to purchase one new..

 

Old vs New


Also, Although the stock throttle body measures 90.. I have finally decided to step down form the accufab throttle body. It's nice.. but really just unnecessary for what my goals are. Power under the curve/response and one hell of a powerband. With that said.. i found a very good deal on an edelbrock Throttle body. It measures 74mm has a tps and bolts up to my UIM perfectly. ..and it only cost me 100 bucks. I'm amped on it. Accufab 90mm Throttle body is now for sale!! 250 shipped!! if anyone is interested.

My final choice was decided by important factors. I'll be able to run smaller intake piping without a huge flare at the end with the 74 mm throttle body, It came with a tps that I simply have to rewire, it will aid in response and idle, and my fabricator made 1100rwhp on the same exactly throttle body...so i'm really not worried about flow rate

Comparison pics:
edelbrock right -----accufab left


edelbrock



Installed pics


and finally.. still waiting for some love...
The metal guy has been jerking us around with the stainless we ordered.. tried giving us some stainless that just wasn't the same as my fab guy had used in the past.. so we're waiting on the good stuff.

 

 

Double post much?

 

Sick uppper inake! need some of that goodness

 

Good idea. i JUST started to work on appearance and aesthetics. it would have been a nightmare if i did it early because im sloppy and would have stained everything hahaha, def get the mechanical stuff down first!

progress is looking great man

Seat rails are a PITA. thank god i got lucky with mine, i sit insanely close, idk why i prefer it.... I'm not sure what seats you have but one thing you might want to take into consideration is getting in and out of the car. im running a pole position and the side bolster is pretty big. i actually slide the seat all the way back and remove the steering wheel everytime now. Therefore, when i get in i have to adjust the seat every time (im picky and it HAS to be at the same notch every time) Luckily, where i like to sit is at full lock forward. this makes it easy so when i get in i slide all the way up instead of sliding forward and back trying to find the right position.... that makes my life A LOT easier, just my 02 and something i think you shuld think about (if you have to move your seat to get in and out)

 

Lookin' Good!

 

Does anyone know the size and pitch of the 2 castle nuts that hold on the steering knuckles? Thanks in advance..!!

 

Hey thanks much!!

 

got some good driving in yesterday..... NOT hah..


But I did have time to wire in my AVC-R to my RY-WIRE harness. Thanks so much Howard for making the Install so easy.

Cut


A little soldering action


Whaalahh


EBC 95% installed. Need to work on the body harness before I tie in the last 3 wires.

 

Nice, I'd recommend using adhesive lined heat shrink next time though. What you've got it fine, but if you ever end up doing a lot of it, I'd switch.

Quick question, what made you want to use an aftermarket boost controller vs. using your ecu to do it (assuming you've got a stand alone ecu). I struggled with this decision for a while but ended up going with letting my ecu do it and having a 3 position **** (wastegate, low boost, high boost). It's all hidden, except for a little **** that I'm installing in a nice spot on the dash where the warning lights are. No extra screen, or extra boxes anywhere.

 

You know After talking with a few different tuners I was convinced that it would just be safer and easier to tune/control especially if I would be running anything over 16lbs. If I can get steve Kahn to tune my car that would be great. But I'll most likely head down to a very well known shop in Los Angeles called "Church's" for my tune.

You know that sounds really cool though. What ****? I didn't have any problems before at 16 lbs with my Power Fc controlling boost.. but I just read a lot and from what i've read..it's just a good idea over 16lbs.

 

The AVC-R is a nice boost controler. I had one for a while and liked it. It has a TON of features. The only reason I sold mine is because I am using my Haltech to control boost now.


Mannykiller, That PFC is holding you back man.

I agree with Collin, you should use adhesive backed shrink tubing. It is a far superior method of sealing the connections. Plus for how much you will need there is not much of a difference in price.

 

bahahha driving without a steering wheel is not safe!

 

You know... maybe the PFC is a little out dated.. but truthfully.. I may make 5 more hp across the board with say a haltech...and get 1mpg more... But for the cost.. I'm sticking with my PFC for now. =-) I'll go Haltech when I go 20b down the line =-)

 

Oh ok, if you're using the PFC then a separate boost controller makes a lot of sense.

My **** is nothing special, I'll post pics once I get it mounted. All it is is a 3 position switch that is connected to the ECU and controls the boost control solenoid duty cycle.

The middle position of the **** position is whatever the duty cycle table is set at in the ECU (a 16x16 table for rpm vs. psi, adjusted during tuning). This is my low boost but higher than wastegate setting.

The first position of the **** will be set to reduce duty cycle to 0 (turning the solenoid off and allowing the car to run on wastegate pressure only). The input in the computer is a percentage. So I enter in -100% to zero out all of the values that determine the duty cycle.

The third position of the **** will be similar to the first, except it will be a + percentage. During tuning, we'll start of at a 5% increase, and work our way up to whatever percentage gives me my targeted high boost, probably 22-24 psi.

After everything is tuned, I just turn the **** to whatever setting I want and voila! I'll probably end up with 11-12psi wastegate, 17psi low boost, and 22-24psi high boost (if my egt's are too high at 24 psi I'll stop at 22).

It's definitely not as user friendly as a stand alone boost controller, but 3 options is enough for me, and it should be a pretty wide range of power options (a little over 300 to hopefully a little over 500)