^ thanks much man. Yea If we wanted to use the stainless we would've had to do some crazy long routing which would've made install kind of a biyatch haha. As if it's not already hard to get in there. Your right though.. I've learned quite a bit and i'm actually planning on having to work out a few bugs when the car starts and can move under it's own power. Just trying to make sure everything is checked off on the list ya know? haha And hell yea.. let me know when you get down to socal. I'll still be about an hour and a half away..but if you'r into tracks.. you'll be out by me at least once a month. we'll have to cruise some meets and hit up some track days.

 

I have one of those converter boxes for the egt's for sale if u are interested, it is brand new.



John

 

looking good

 

wow this is an amazing build

 

Formula D, streets of longbeach was a blast! got to see some rad machines
couldn't help but root for Jeremy Low in his rew swapped fc... One of the few actually running a NON-V8.. rotary none the less!!


Update!: Been really busy lately..not as much time to work on my car as I'd like..and i'm slightly behind sched for the drift event out here in june..not sure if i'll make it or not.
Got a second new job at dodger stadium so I can blow all sorts of extra cash on my car.

gave up on the hard lines as they were just a royal pain and went with my original idea (push fit's to save the day) came out really nice and I couldn't be happier

First flare of my life.. not a huge deal..but cool to me.

ended up making a fuel return for the Cj-M hanger -6an


Almost done

Touge Factory Pullies came in last week.. hell of a price for a full pully kit

Also, got my oil filler in from Mr. Flynn.. hell of a price

 

probly still going to have to hack it up though haha


Evan Hard at work....

 

Nice, do you need a return on the CJ hanger? I just left mine open.

Also, I don't know if you've tried putting it in the car yet, but what fittings did you use? I had to get earl's low profile AN hose ends (30 bucks a pop) in order to clear the access panel in the hatch. And I still had to hack up a bit of the body of the car on the in order to run the lines nicely.

 

^ You should run a return line in the tank to help prevent the fuel from foaming. It is a bigger problem if the fuel is diesel but it is just better to do so even with gasoline.

 

most people just use normal AN hose ends and put a couple small dents in the access panel cover to clear (also what we did on our FD).

Question: if you do not have a return line installed... how exactly do you have your fuel pressure regulator hooked up?

 

I have a return line to the tank. I was talking about the little pipe he made that goes from the return bulkhead fitting to the bottom of the tank (instead of letting fuel just dump in from the top)

 

ok.. So i just spent the last 4 hours wiring up the pumps and then fixing my "in tank" return.

What happened was when I went to install it.... I accidently sheered off my level sensor green wire (ground) on the opening of the tank. That biyatch is pretty sharp. So i had to pull the plug out again and re wire it. Luckily it was only aout an inch from the top so I had some length to play with..but not as much as i'd like. Then once I got that all tidied up.. I I got it all the way till about 2 inches from the bulk-head and the in tank return line hit. It was a pain.. So I had to take the bender to it and have it slightly spiral around the back side of the pump.. but it also needed to clear the in tank tub at the bottom. If I were to do it again.. I would have the in tank return pivot outside of the slosh tub. As not to disturb the fuel pick up. But this should be just fine... Maybe I'll cut it a few inches shorter. We'll see. anyways.. on to pics.


this is how I spiraled it around with the bender.

Wiring... the 6 pin that is supplied witht he cj-m pump hanger is damn nice.


Also got my oil filler neck and had to cut it to get it to sit out of the way of the UIM and clear the oil dip stick/oil filter. I hate how I'd have to fill oil over my engine... So I took a giant pie cut out of the piece so it was angled upward so the oil would flow into the motor easier and also rotated it about 290 degrees so it was sitting nice and clear of everything.
Band saw and oil filler neck

Bj doing his thing

Finished... installed pics to come.


Now that i've done the whole in-tank insall.. I'm going to have to go ahead and say that sumping the tank would be a hell of a lot easier. Pumps mounted in line = Win & game over. Wouldn't need to worry about fuel slosh either. When the time come's i'm pulling out the pumps and sumping the tank..possibly even a fuel cell... because this was just too tight of a fit.
But i'm happy it's in and ready to go. Just need to connect one pump to a toggle and the other one regular.

 

it's installed but I havn't put the access panel on just yet.. i'll most likely keep it open, or cut some holes in the panel to make it fit. The low profile fittings were what I wanted to do.. but you werent joking... 30 bcuks is expensive!! So dent's it is

 

my inspiration:

http://youtu.be/COIU32OpX90

everyone shoudl check out Kyouto drift/togethia media and Dragon Perfomance

 

manny: currently in testing for the 370z we have designed an in-tank fuel pump assembly with integrated road racing surge canister. The 370z is by far the worst car for fuel starvation... in road racing situations the car starts to suffer starvation in right turns as soon as the fuel gauge starts to drop any from completely full. Our prototype went into a race teams track car who had intentions to change out to a fuel cell later down the road.

Our assembly has solved the problem so well, that they have aborted the fuel cell project... they purchased an additional OEM fuel tank that they are going to do a little fab on for the quick fill connectors and stuff like that (i am not too familiar with that stuff). I actually talked to them today and they were able to run the car so low at the track that when they filled it up after, it took 18 gallons (out of 19 capacity).

Anyway what I am getting at is that as soon as we go into production on that unit, we are building one for the FD RX7... the process will go quickly since we already have the design done and the RX7 fuel tank dimensions we need in CAD... so its just going to be some adjustments and what not to make it fit the application.

Once we have it ready (sometime this summer) and have finished up our new versions of other RX7 products, we will begin our sponsorship here and post up about it. I think you will like it a lot, its a really really cool little thing. Its always been my feelings that a well designed fuel pump system can eliminate the needs for a fuel cell in any application. In a lot of cars like the Z cars we specialize in... the stock fuel tank is placed in the middle of the car, which is of course better for weight placement than a rear mounted fuel cell.... of course in the RX7 the tank is already in the back of the car anyway, but I think we can save you from ever needing a fuel cell!

 

That's awesome. I'm trying to picture what it looks like though. Is it similar to one of the spring loaded pastic canisters that come with the G35 or 350Z?

 

so I made some progress today. I made sure all my pumps were securely connected into the 6pin connector because a couple of them had been pushed out when I plugged them in. I guess they didn't snap in.."lock" into the connector. I didnt want to have to pull the assembly out ever again lol. All seemed secure and in place even after I plugged in the connectors so I installed it. After that I went and got the battery jumper to test the pumps. Already had the female side wired up so I plugged in the connector and touched them - and +. Success!!! both pumps turned on successfully. YES! this being my first time really wiring.. I was pretty excited. ALl i need to do is tie in the pumps to the rear harness and hook one pump up to a toggle switch. Good ****.

Next I installed the oil filler neck: Looks good...but I may need to rotate the neck slightly to avoid the master cylinder

Also, started work on the bracket that will re-locate my Power Steering.

had to cut down the plate quite a bit. One mans scrap.... is another mans treasure!!

After that bj helped me by bending the piece just like the OEM piece so it would sit flush against the motor and mount up like stock:

then bj got to work welding the pump mount to the plate:




more updates soon

 

Aaron,

You don't want the return line near the pump pickups. It will aerate the fuel bigtime..Easy fix...

 

I was afraid of that actually... Thanks brotha. Quick question..... Will the return be air and fuel mixed? Or just a solid steam exiting the return line?

 

it will only be fuel but it will be at a rather high velocity... especially at idle/cruise. In our FD we positioned the return tube to return the fuel into the inlet channel of the in-tank bucket/baffle, and bent it to flow inward and possibly assist pulling more fuel in with it.

twincharged: it looks rather boring actually, lol, from the outside all you see is a big canister with some holes in it!

 

Thanks. Regarding the dump tube, is it necessary, or is it ok to let the return dump out of the bulkhead?

 

Good info...^ I don't want to pull it all the way out so i'm thinking about sneaking my an wrench in there and loosening the return dump tube.. then i'm gonna simply bend it and have it dump outwards away from the fuel baffle.

In other news.. got 30 min of work in this morning. Was able to mount the P/s pump and mock it all up. I forgot my belt so I made a duct tape one just for mocking purposes. But it came out well. I'm gonna shave down the plate some so it's not so bulky, sand blast the whole bracket assembly and paint it with high temp silver like my housings.
back side of assembly/bracket

Clears the Throttle body and charge tube

Final position


Also, initially I was a little skeptical the bracket wouldn't be strong enough because fo the amount of metal I cut off. But after mounting it and bolting it on.. I'm pretty confident it's strong enough. I had to take the tensioner pulley off and put a fair amount of muscle into it while getting it off and the bracket held the pump nice and sturdy. There was a little bit of flex.. but i'm not entirely sure thats all that bad. I may have Bj weld a couple strength ribs on just to help a little.

 

Just realized im gonna need an idler pulley...

 

Pineapple Racing do a good one plenty of people use

 

God that intake manifold is beautiful. Keep up the good work!

 

nice