Mannykillers/ AAPARKAH Street/time Attack/Drift Build (heavy Pics) #Thisisthewolf
The things you can do when you have the right tools for the job.. Fabbing some Radiator inlets/outlets

purddy little pair...

The start of an end-tank

Bj on point..


and I forgot to take a pic of the end product.. but it was all tacked up when we left the shop today. Were going to get some in tube and do a nice little cradle around the radiator to protect it and mount it correctly, but also it'll be able to be installed and un-installed easily if need be. The thought behind using an IC core as a radiator is pretty logical. BJ came from a nascar/circle-track/Drag background, and he really doe's know his stuff. The fins inside of the IC will actually make of for the size of the IC. The IC core were using for the RAD has roughly 2 times the surface area actually coming in contact with the coolant than a traditional radiator, with only a minimal amount of extra coolant in the actual system. The pro-stock truck guys were having great results with them and they run full throttle the whole race.. so if it's good enough for them.. I'm sure it'll be good enough for me. Plus he said if it doesnt work... he'll make me a traditional one to my liking. But i'm sure this one will work just fine. It also helps that we made it a twin pass.. and it's relatively smaller size gives us much more room for the actual I/C positioning and turbo intake =-) So to try and configure something a little bit more practical than your average v-mount were going to try something different. Anyne looked at the sierra-sierra evo's heat exchangers set up? Well.....looking at it...i was a little inspired to do something a little different and me and BJ came up with this Idea. It'll almost be a reverse V-mount. This way we can keep the Radiator from heat soaking the I/C. and airflow behind both heat exchangers....although minimal will pass through and around the engine from one source. Were going to try to keep the weight as low as possible and as far back as possible to try and limit weight over the front of the steering rack.
I don't have any pics of the mock up..but we'll get back on it this next weekend possibly..or maybe even this week. Either way.. i'm pretty happy with what has been accomplished as of late. Ohh and before any of you blow the ludicracies and blasphemies out your asses.. yes.. the fuel hard line from prim-to-secondaries will be re-adjusted...and heat sleeved with dei. =-)

purddy little pair...

The start of an end-tank

Bj on point..


and I forgot to take a pic of the end product.. but it was all tacked up when we left the shop today. Were going to get some in tube and do a nice little cradle around the radiator to protect it and mount it correctly, but also it'll be able to be installed and un-installed easily if need be. The thought behind using an IC core as a radiator is pretty logical. BJ came from a nascar/circle-track/Drag background, and he really doe's know his stuff. The fins inside of the IC will actually make of for the size of the IC. The IC core were using for the RAD has roughly 2 times the surface area actually coming in contact with the coolant than a traditional radiator, with only a minimal amount of extra coolant in the actual system. The pro-stock truck guys were having great results with them and they run full throttle the whole race.. so if it's good enough for them.. I'm sure it'll be good enough for me. Plus he said if it doesnt work... he'll make me a traditional one to my liking. But i'm sure this one will work just fine. It also helps that we made it a twin pass.. and it's relatively smaller size gives us much more room for the actual I/C positioning and turbo intake =-) So to try and configure something a little bit more practical than your average v-mount were going to try something different. Anyne looked at the sierra-sierra evo's heat exchangers set up? Well.....looking at it...i was a little inspired to do something a little different and me and BJ came up with this Idea. It'll almost be a reverse V-mount. This way we can keep the Radiator from heat soaking the I/C. and airflow behind both heat exchangers....although minimal will pass through and around the engine from one source. Were going to try to keep the weight as low as possible and as far back as possible to try and limit weight over the front of the steering rack.
I don't have any pics of the mock up..but we'll get back on it this next weekend possibly..or maybe even this week. Either way.. i'm pretty happy with what has been accomplished as of late. Ohh and before any of you blow the ludicracies and blasphemies out your asses.. yes.. the fuel hard line from prim-to-secondaries will be re-adjusted...and heat sleeved with dei. =-)
this build is so badass! Also are you running bride seats as well? I'm wondering if (and when) I get mine if I should get the lowmax seats and rails. I'm only 5'5 so I'm not sure if I'll be too low lol
^ 5'5...I really think you'd be fine with regular rails. I'm running a memory fab s-68 carbon bucket. Passenger side will most likely run am adjustable rail... But thanks so much for the kind words!
Thanks for the reply! I was thinking that as well but wanted to make sure. Its hard to find someone locally with Bride lowmax's in an fd.
The motor is clean as hell man, deserves respect and kind words at the very least
Can't wait to see it running! Let me know how those maxdrift gauges work out. I'm still looking for a good gauge set up.
The motor is clean as hell man, deserves respect and kind words at the very least
Thanks for the reply! I was thinking that as well but wanted to make sure. Its hard to find someone locally with Bride lowmax's in an fd.
The motor is clean as hell man, deserves respect and kind words at the very least
Can't wait to see it running! Let me know how those maxdrift gauges work out. I'm still looking for a good gauge set up.
The motor is clean as hell man, deserves respect and kind words at the very least
Thanks mike.. well If the car's not running.. I'll most likely trailer it out there. I literally live about 20 min away from Willow springs.. and right by the freeway. So If I can't drive.. I'll be absolutely pissed....haha. But I'll trailer her and throw her in the show or something. Buit if all works out she should be ready to start in 2 weeks. And then i can work out the bugs and dyno in another 2 weeks and hopefully make the track event to drive =-)
Update:
Well I was browsing zilvia.net and came across a hell of a deal. And since I've been looking for a set of spare rear's for the track.. I pulled the trigger. I got 2 Advan TCIII"s BNIB for..realllll cheap shipped. Good sizes as well. 18x11 +15. We'll see exactly how much less they weight compared to my 18x12 Rota's =-)
TCIII's I'm not the biggest fan of concave wheels but these look nice and they're a newer design so it's cool to have some wheels not many people have.

Also, my front Rota's came in...18x10+20. They Fit great and the gloss finish makes me wish I would've gotten hyper black on my rears. But THey're going to be painted all anyways, but more on that later. I may need to go with a slightly smaller tire though. This pic is with 245/45's.. I'd like to run a 245 35 if I can, or a 235 if I can find one in a competitive tire. We'll see...


mounted


I've also managed to clean my OEM fans.. Forgot to take a pic of before and after..but it doesn't matter because they don't fit anyways haha. So they're now for sale.

And here's a pic of where the radiator will most likely end up sitting. Maybe an inch or so back. We're also going to clock the turbo a bit more clock wise so the compressor outlet will be a bit more out of the way.

We are still playing with ideas though and also haven't set anything in concrete just yet. But progress is being made. I still need to find the right size of the castle nut that connects to the steering end-link and also order a few tid-bit odd ends i'll need for various little things. More to come..
Well I was browsing zilvia.net and came across a hell of a deal. And since I've been looking for a set of spare rear's for the track.. I pulled the trigger. I got 2 Advan TCIII"s BNIB for..realllll cheap shipped. Good sizes as well. 18x11 +15. We'll see exactly how much less they weight compared to my 18x12 Rota's =-)
TCIII's I'm not the biggest fan of concave wheels but these look nice and they're a newer design so it's cool to have some wheels not many people have.

Also, my front Rota's came in...18x10+20. They Fit great and the gloss finish makes me wish I would've gotten hyper black on my rears. But THey're going to be painted all anyways, but more on that later. I may need to go with a slightly smaller tire though. This pic is with 245/45's.. I'd like to run a 245 35 if I can, or a 235 if I can find one in a competitive tire. We'll see...


mounted


I've also managed to clean my OEM fans.. Forgot to take a pic of before and after..but it doesn't matter because they don't fit anyways haha. So they're now for sale.

And here's a pic of where the radiator will most likely end up sitting. Maybe an inch or so back. We're also going to clock the turbo a bit more clock wise so the compressor outlet will be a bit more out of the way.

We are still playing with ideas though and also haven't set anything in concrete just yet. But progress is being made. I still need to find the right size of the castle nut that connects to the steering end-link and also order a few tid-bit odd ends i'll need for various little things. More to come..
Last edited by mannykiller; Aug 6, 2012 at 02:18 PM.
I have gone through this entire thread over the past 3 hours. Very inspiring as Im doing a total track in-and-out build like yourself. Me and a friend were supposed to convert our harnesses to single this weekend but I think Ill do the rywire instead. This past month has been making a shopping list of part to buy and endless hours of research to drop about $8k mostly at once to start the build after these past few months of cleaning and inspecting everything. I have to say, your thread has helped me out a lot on stuff I was unsure of and I look forward to you enjoying the the work youve put in and show theres a light at the end of this long tunnel lol.
Hey Manny, Don't take this in a wrong way but why bottom mount turbo set up?

One of the reason why I went with mine is because placement of the 20B and how short all the piping was going to be,... and moving some weight down since engine is bit higher than stock, straighter DP, etc. But in your case with stock 13B rew location, I would of chosen the traditional route for the optimal flow as your turbo hasn't really moved anywhere.
Also, it looks like there is a brace to the turbo to the body? Is this just temporary or permeant?

One of the reason why I went with mine is because placement of the 20B and how short all the piping was going to be,... and moving some weight down since engine is bit higher than stock, straighter DP, etc. But in your case with stock 13B rew location, I would of chosen the traditional route for the optimal flow as your turbo hasn't really moved anywhere.
Also, it looks like there is a brace to the turbo to the body? Is this just temporary or permeant?
I think that's probably the best way to package a long runner manifold. Doing it differently but keeping the runner length as long as it is would have meant a very forward location for the turbo.
Hey Manny, Don't take this in a wrong way but why bottom mount turbo set up?

One of the reason why I went with mine is because placement of the 20B and how short all the piping was going to be,... and moving some weight down since engine is bit higher than stock, straighter DP, etc. But in your case with stock 13B rew location, I would of chosen the traditional route for the optimal flow as your turbo hasn't really moved anywhere.
Also, it looks like there is a brace to the turbo to the body? Is this just temporary or permeant?

One of the reason why I went with mine is because placement of the 20B and how short all the piping was going to be,... and moving some weight down since engine is bit higher than stock, straighter DP, etc. But in your case with stock 13B rew location, I would of chosen the traditional route for the optimal flow as your turbo hasn't really moved anywhere.
Also, it looks like there is a brace to the turbo to the body? Is this just temporary or permeant?
The braces are there strictly for mocking purposes.
The Manifolds isn't all that different from many longer runner Manifolds. Maybe not many have been done with rotaries..but that doesn't mean there aren't gains or benefits to the design. The Manifold runners are really just giant ”C's” as far as shape is concerned.
slightly different update:
Well not a HUGE update with the fd.. but I did end up fixing my fuel line form the secondary rail to the FPR. It was practically hitting the turbo flange here.. So pulled out my extra AN-6's and found a quick solution
Before,.... dangerous

an-6 expensive *** little 90's

Made a new Hard line

after.. nice and roomy. Prob get some dei fire sleeve and be done with it =-)

My wheels came in..and I must say.. these will be some nice spares!! 18x11 +15 Advan TCIII's in gunmetal. Got a steal on them.. brand new in box for a hell of a price
my phone camera is pretty legit

had a going away party for my best bro, getting his PHD through ASU for free!!!
we'll have to call him Dr Vickovic in another year and a half haha.

And I eventually got sick of driving my pos 2005 Chevy Cobalt everyday.. the air conditioning sucks and the transmission was shifting so hard it was def about to go.. But here are a list of things I had to replace over the cars short 7 years of life.. I got it 2 years ago so I didn't have to do most of the maintenance but still.. what a effin lemon. My sister had to go through all this..
Motor replaced after 15000 miles due to oil consumption problems
Fuel pump leaking recall. peoples cars were catching on fire
Mechanical power steering failure.. I had it for this..and let me tell you..
Full electrical body harness needed to be replaced
Shifter consol replaced because there is no release and the car wouldn't start?
Engine harness replaced
and a bunch of little crap that seriously just ridiculous. It got 31 mpg's but thats nothing to boast about considering all the crappy problems. So Since I have a race car,...and my 05 F-150 I decided to trade the cobalt in and go green..
Picked her up a couple days ago. 2010 Toyota Prius, certified pre-owned 124000 Mile extended warranty on all electrical/drivetrain/bumper to bumper warranty for 18500 out the door =-) I'm pretty happy.

need lowering springs and wheels
Well not a HUGE update with the fd.. but I did end up fixing my fuel line form the secondary rail to the FPR. It was practically hitting the turbo flange here.. So pulled out my extra AN-6's and found a quick solution
Before,.... dangerous

an-6 expensive *** little 90's

Made a new Hard line

after.. nice and roomy. Prob get some dei fire sleeve and be done with it =-)

My wheels came in..and I must say.. these will be some nice spares!! 18x11 +15 Advan TCIII's in gunmetal. Got a steal on them.. brand new in box for a hell of a price
my phone camera is pretty legit

had a going away party for my best bro, getting his PHD through ASU for free!!!

And I eventually got sick of driving my pos 2005 Chevy Cobalt everyday.. the air conditioning sucks and the transmission was shifting so hard it was def about to go.. But here are a list of things I had to replace over the cars short 7 years of life.. I got it 2 years ago so I didn't have to do most of the maintenance but still.. what a effin lemon. My sister had to go through all this..
Motor replaced after 15000 miles due to oil consumption problems
Fuel pump leaking recall. peoples cars were catching on fire
Mechanical power steering failure.. I had it for this..and let me tell you..
Full electrical body harness needed to be replaced
Shifter consol replaced because there is no release and the car wouldn't start?

Engine harness replaced
and a bunch of little crap that seriously just ridiculous. It got 31 mpg's but thats nothing to boast about considering all the crappy problems. So Since I have a race car,...and my 05 F-150 I decided to trade the cobalt in and go green..
Picked her up a couple days ago. 2010 Toyota Prius, certified pre-owned 124000 Mile extended warranty on all electrical/drivetrain/bumper to bumper warranty for 18500 out the door =-) I'm pretty happy.

need lowering springs and wheels
small update:
well progress has been very slow. My fab guy got a new job and will only be in his shop after6 during weekdays. I usually work weekdays around the time he'll be at the shop so hopefully we can bust some of this stuff out on the weekends. Either way i'll be towing the car to seven stock if she's not ready to run. ..trailer queen hah.
So we did end up finishing off converting the I/C core to a rad. We tossed the two reg hose spouts for put some -16AN on there in stead. They'll make for a nicer hose job.


I also got my first Welding lesson. Super amped to eventually being able to do all my own stuff!
and a little pic I got some inspiration from...seriously......how rad is this wing?
well progress has been very slow. My fab guy got a new job and will only be in his shop after6 during weekdays. I usually work weekdays around the time he'll be at the shop so hopefully we can bust some of this stuff out on the weekends. Either way i'll be towing the car to seven stock if she's not ready to run. ..trailer queen hah.
So we did end up finishing off converting the I/C core to a rad. We tossed the two reg hose spouts for put some -16AN on there in stead. They'll make for a nicer hose job.


I also got my first Welding lesson. Super amped to eventually being able to do all my own stuff!
and a little pic I got some inspiration from...seriously......how rad is this wing?






