t-von

iTrader: (8)

Be nice to know what that mechanic did to the A/C wiring because my 20b does the same thing.

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Definitely! Just haven't taken any good pics as I wanted the car to be back in shape before taking them. Will snap some this week. Engine bay looks good but needs some extra touches to elevate it. Fortunately it's things I can do.

Good question - Mike told me he checked the plug and the wires were backwards. I will ask him to show me when I pick the car up.

spintriangles

iTrader: (3)

David I am glad you got your car back from Kilo. I live in Central Fl and own an Fd so it is natural that my car has been to Kilo racing. I am also happy because the more cars he finishes the more space there is for my car, which needs a triangle heart transplant. The heart is already there with a street port. New single turbo kit pte 6262 1ar,microtech lt10 and rofaryextreme vmount. Well enough of my stuff. I heard your car start at Kilos and I was floored I almost cried.What a sweet sound and man I love that oem hood with the vent. As far as engine bay damn that black wrinkle looks sharp. Had my intercooler pipes and a few more engine parts done. Sorry not that I want to copy your style but I could not resist after seeing how clean it looked.

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

^ Thanks for the compliments and glad to clear out of your way.

The 3 rotor does sound really nice. Not just mine, but the engine in general. I think it's the pulse of an odd number of rotors that does it. Sounds like an F1 car to me.

Most of the black in the engine bay is a ceramic thermal heat dispersant coating as opposed to a powder coating. it does look like wrinkle though. Nice setup on your car. You are going to like the v-mount setup, particularly in FL.

spintriangles

iTrader: (3)

I have heard a few 20b na in my area and some sweet sonding 20b at the 24hrs rolex at Daytona so am no stranger to that triangle music but your car was the first 20b turbo heard. Just the sound makes me want to go three rotor but the cost stops me. Not to say its not worth the added power and torque but its just not in my budget at this time kids,wife,house etc. Maybe in the future though. Hell if Icould i would to do a 4 rotor na build. Brap brap brap.

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

Any new pics now that she's back home. Would love to see a new detailed "set"

fdracer

so would you say you're not happy with kilo's quality of work considering the number of outstanding issues relative to the time and (i'm assuming) money spent with his shop?

i'm not saying you should bash the guy, but if he's responsible he should be held accountable. we're a small community, and if you're not happy you should speak up in order to help us make more informed decisions...

spintriangles

iTrader: (3)

David now that you have a vmount set up does that oem custom vented hood help release a lot of heat from that oven?

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

The turbo does add to the sound of the 3 rotor. Costs are very high to do the conversion, no matter who does it, it seems, and the project will always be there for you in the future. You've listed the more important things in live.

Regarding 4 rotors, I follow Monsterbox's build and look forward to hearing the sound of his engine.

Will do Tim, it's just the car isn't up to my standards just yet and it's been at the mechanic up here for a few weeks to resolve the AC and front fender liner issues. I've scouted out a few places here in Asheville to do a photoshoot and promise to post up pics. I'll do some of the engine bay prior to this though.

No, that is not what I am saying. The quality of his work is very good, as I posted previously and I would take the car back to him. His fabrication and engine skills are awesome. I have known Kilo for a number of years and he's an honest hard working guy that really knows rotaries and he's always been good to me.

As I also posted up, this time I was disappointed with the timing of the work, even though I wasn't exactly focused on the car due to other more pressing house issues. And if you know me, you know I care about details most don't and it is these things that did not get finalized while the car was there. So, I am knocking them out now the car is back.

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Don't know the answer to this just yet as I haven't focused on this since getting the car back. I know the vents helped with the previous front mount intercooler setup as I could see the heat escaping.

I will be happy to tape up the vents to see if it makes any difference. I'd guess the setup would work well, even without the vents but every little bit helps on the FD. I still need to do a better job ducting the v-mount setup as I think this will add to the temp drops I have seen since installing the v-mount. Remember, the Engine Ice I am running for coolant also works well and we were able to demonstrate this by doing back to back runs in hot and humid Orlando.

spintriangles

iTrader: (3)

First of all Orlando has to be one of the best places to test a cooling system on a fd for sure. Summer time is down right hot. I have lived here since 1980. I used to also have a fmic but felt a properly ducted vmic would help with the heat. Will that coolant you are running.damage any gaskets in the future? I am always looking for.a way to control heat in the engine bay. My car will be a weekend warrior and used on occasional road course track days. I believe that keeping engine.temps.down helps the life span of the engine.

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

I agree about the heat in Orlando. Throw in the humidity as well, and it's as brutal as it gets.

To answer your question about seals, no, there should be no negative impact. From the Engine Ice website:

"Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant will not harm your seals and gaskets. Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant meets or exceeds all AS™ (American Society for Testing and Materials) and SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) Standards and Requirements. These are industry standards in most everything mechanical and engine-based, including motorcycles and cars."

It's the same stuff as in the Evans coolant and I haven't heard of any issues running that so you should be good to go.

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

So, is it zero pressure like Evans?

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

No. It's for a pressurized system. My guess would be because it has distilled water in it. I run the stock .9 bar cap.

So with Evans you gain the benefit of running a zero pressure system. However you lose cooling efficiency. From the Evans website:

Engines filled with Evans usually run 3 - 10ºC hotter than those using water-based coolants, but the overall heat transfer and engine efficiency is improved through the elimination of steam-vapour pockets.

So you have to decide what are priorities for the rotary. For me it's reducing heat and preventing cavitation (steam pockets) and the best at that is Engine Ice.

spintriangles

iTrader: (3)

Man this is great info. I will put this in my car. I am guessing that a good temp will be between 180 and 200. Correct me if I am wrong.

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

David, thanks. So, is it fairly simple to switch a system over from EG to Engine Ice? Is it as easy as drain EG and refill with Ice, or do you need to get as much of your old Prestone out before adding the new product. I take it you follow the normal refill, start and burp process using my trusty yellow Lisle funnel? Thx

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Pretty easy to do the switch. We flushed the system by running the car with the front elevated and then the drain plug out. Used a hose and kept filling until the drain water turned clear instead of green. We then kept this up for a good number of minutes to ensure all the coolant was out. Also, we pulled the hoses from the heater core and drained there as well. Should mention we captured as much of the coolant first as one would normally do for recycling.

The Engine Ice website says to drain the system and then use a combo of vinegar and water to do a final flush. I'd say this is ideal but a little of the old collard won't hurt.

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Yes, that works for me and is the range I like.

spintriangles

iTrader: (3)

David do you.have a water temp gauge and if so what temps are you seeing in this hot weather?

spintriangles

iTrader: (3)

David what turbo are you running and are you seeing your boost comr on earlier now that you have a vmount set up?

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

Yes. I have a PLX multi gauge that monitors 8 different items including water and oil temps. I saw 83-86 C during testing and on the way home. With the AC on I was around 90 C. This is over 10 C cooler than what I saw before the v mount and coolant setup.

I have a modified BG 400SX turbo. The specs are posted somewhere in this thread. I haven't done much boosting yet with the car as I want to get it dialed in to ensure everything is operating well. Some light runs with under 10 PSI indicate boost comes on quickly but I'd need to do some dyno runs to know exactly when.

spintriangles

iTrader: (3)

David cant wait to see your car properly tuned. You run haltech correct. I will be running microtech lt10. Not that I am a fan of that ecu but this is what Kilo tunes. He is my local mechanic so I bought one from him. I figured since he does the tune this was the ecu I needed to buy.

spintriangles

iTrader: (3)

David are you seeing any heat soak at traffic lights from your vmount

David Hayes

iTrader: (6)

^ Yes, I have a Haltech PS2000. The Microtech is a very good choice as Kilo will do a great job with it for you. He is very knowledgable with Microtech and is able to do things with the system most can't.

Can't answer your second question regarding heat soak in traffic as I haven't had the car for the past few weeks. I am heading over this am to see the car and meet with the mechanic to try to solve the fender liner issue. It's turned into a bigger issue than we thought as we need to widen out the liners but the mechanic's source for plastic liner material has dried up. We've got a crazy idea and if that works, the car will be back tomorrow.

Regarding what I previsouly saw down in Orlando, water temps were a stable 86 C or so at traffic lights so I did not see heat soak. My AIT sensor is wigged out so I don't know about air temps but I'd guess they go up. Need to data log this with the Haltech to confirm. My oil temps did go up at lights or in traffic. When I brought the car back to NC, I got stuck in major traffic on I-95 and while sitting there, noticed no water temp issues but did see oil temps go up from around 170 F to 200 F - still very good but up. Once I started moving, temps dropped right back down. This has nothing to do with the v-mount setup and is because of no air movement through the dual oil coolers but thought I'd mention.

papsmagu

iTrader: (19)

Truck is good. Haven't driven it much lately. I recently built an rx4 and i usually take that one out. one of my favorite cars to drive. truck will always be my favorite but the 4 is a close second.

sometimes, its not about the end result. i try to enjoy of the process (much easier said than done). i find myself rushing thru projects sometimes to get the car finished and then when i finish, i say to myself...i should have done this different or i should have done that different? once i finish the car, i'm almost bored with it. yeah i enjoy driving them but if i'm not tinkering with something, than its not fun.

Many people say why didnt you buy this super car or that super car. its really simple, because its not the same. anyone can walk into a car dealer and walk out with a super car, all it takes is having $$$ in the bank or good credit. sometimes both. its not about the money nor the time. its about the journey. enjoy it brother. one day, the car will be what/how you envisioned it.