SumTinWong

iTrader: (2)

The more I search the more I see how much this is argued but is there anyone that has flow charts or hard data on the differences between the two? I know that one is Tube fin and one is bar and plate. I've read the M-spec is heavier because its a thicker IC but that's OK because it has more surface area for heat transfer, but its bad because it acts like a heatsink and can cause damage when the car is just sitting. I ask because of the $400 price difference between the two and if there is no serious difference Ill just opt for the M-Spec. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

mono4lamar

iTrader: (32)

V-Spec is the tube and fin. If you have the money go for the V-spec...

93RedDragonFD

iTrader: (16)

I've always wondered the same thing myself. I believe the V-Spec is more efficient for higher hp setups... I believe there is a step up from the V-Spec as well that Greddy makes (R-Spec). Personally i have the M-Spec myself, can't beat the price!

SumTinWong

iTrader: (2)

All the ads say its the size if an R spec but flow of V Spec. If its the best of both worlds why is it cheaper? Also do they require any type of fabrication for the battery or radiator? Not looking to make huge numbers but want better flow then a SMIC.

Jetlag

The statement above should give you a clue as to how inefficient the M spec really is. It requires more material/core area of 4'' thick to do the same work(efficiency) as a 3'' core. And the V spec is lighter and requires a little less triming of the bumper. I would just save some $$$ and go with a better core.

Jay

Jetlag

Well, as far as install goes... it's not hard, just time consuming. If you look at all the pictures of my i/c post you'll get some ideas of what you'll be removing.

The Greddy instuction was in Japanese, great it you can read it. The Greddy radiator adaptor was just a thin piece of metal that breaks quite frequent. I had a friend of mine fabricated a side wall to the Greddy adaptor and tig welded it. It's super strong now. Over all the kit was complete, meaning that you didn't have to run out and get any other part.

Back to the install, you'll have to drain the coolent and power steering fuilds. Remove the radiator, p/s cooler, bumper, bumper core(fiberglass), horn, battery, relay box, and the radiator hoses.

The hardest part for most people will be triming the bumper skin. For me this was the easy part, all you have to do is measure twice, and trim once. Just take your time in triming as you only have one chance to do it right.

Next difficult task is triming the fiberglass bumper. All you're doing here is just trimming about 2 inches off the bottom. Use a sharpie marker and mark it, take your Saws All and have at it.

The rest of the install is really easy, all those little bracket will be install between the frame rail and the a/c condensor and p/s line. The radiator hoses will need be trimed to fit the Greddy hose adaptors. It's really not a difficult task if you have some mechanical skills, which you really need if your going to own one of these cars. Good luck in your choice of i/c.

Oh, the Greddy battery bracket sucks *** too. I didn't relocated mine battery but would suggest one to do so. I just used a Miata battery on my install.

jay

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=735828

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I was recently told by a large Greddy wholesaler that they discontinued the M-spec after offering it for only one year......

Jetlag

What was the problem with the M-spec?