Guys, I have been working on this for a while. I wanted to make this as accurate as possible. So any of your input would be greatly appreciated.
My email is grille-tech@adelphia.net
Thanks,
Ben

 

I guess people don't do this mod anymore.
Too bad, cuz I just did it and I love it.

 

I'm in the process of doing it now. Good diagram, nice and clean looking. I think the PCV valve line can be capped too.

 

PCV=Purge control can be capped?
What goes to the charchoal canister then?
Can that all be removed?

 

Never mind. I see what you are talking about now. What about the line that comes off the lower nipple on the oil filler neck. It is shown here marked "A". Do you know if that gets capped?

 

No it doesnt, but the other to the manifold can go, so can the purge control thing.

 

Thank you for posying that diagram! I am in the process of buying a spare set of twins to re-build and was going to convert them to "non-sequential." This diagram will help alot.

 

I am actually selling a set of twin turbo's that are fully modified for non sequential operation. I have decided to go single. The turbo's would need to be rebuilt. The exhaust manifold is ported, the wastegate is ported. The turbo control door is removed and hole welded.
Let me know if you are interested.
Ben

 

Oh, I also have a set of stock unmodified twins.
I will let either of these go for pretty cheap.
Thanks,
Ben

 

How many miles do the turbos have?

 

Non Sequential Turbos: I purchased the turbo's from a performance shop in NC. They told me that the primary turbo had a brand new cartridge, and the 2nd turbo had 17k miles. I have only had the turbo's on my car for less than 100 miles, but they seem to be blown. They ran fine for about 2 days, and then no boost, and lots of smoke.
Would make a great set to rebuild. Plus the exhaust manifold is is ported and w/g is ported already so it will save you lots of money and time.
I am asking $250 shipped for these.

Unmodified turbo's: These were working when I switched them out with the non sequential set. They have 50k miles on them or better. They boosted good, but I would definitely recommend a rebuild for both. There was serious boost fluctuation towards the end there, and a little smoke. So I am assuming they were about to give out. But I don't know, cuz I did have a clogged cat.
I am asking $165 shipped for these.

 

I also have the y pipe with the charge control butterfly removed. I will sell that for $40 shipped. Or add 30 to the turbo's.

 

fc1jz: Thats a nice diagram, one question the yellow line that runs from the inlet of the turbo is that conected to the oil injection nozzles on the rotor housings? If so is that how they are conected from the factory?

cheers

Lance

 

I think someone should make one of these for a single turbo. I don't think there is one out there. I have been doing a good amount of research on the single turbo vac setup and there isn't as much info out there on it as I expected there to be.

 

Damn, that's one fine diagram. Thanks!

 

hi,
i'm trying to go non sequential, i was wondering you can help me out.
can you pleae explain how should i do for replacing all solenoids for 330 Ohm 1/2 watt resistors?
and when does your turbo come on? what rpm?

thank you

don

 

You place the resistor in the electrical connector that the solenoid was once plugged into. Each electrical connector has 2 slots, place one end of the resistor in one slot, and the other end in the second slot. Basically this completes the circuit, but the resistor sends the factory ecu the correct electrical signal.
With a DP, Catback, and modded intake, full boost came about 3500-3700 rpms. It started building around 2500-2800 rpms. Power delivery was much smoother, and turbo efficiency increased significantly between 3k-5k (i.e. more power at same boost levels.)

 

Can someone explain the red line? On all the cars I've seen, it gets capped. (well, for single turbo)... But functionally it would do the same on either application.. What exactly is that? Regulate pressure?

 

I heard you don't cap it because it has something to do with the oil metering pump or something. If you cap it, it will supposedly cause problems, because it needs to sense the boost pressure in order to supply the proper amount of oil.
Not 100% sure though

 

That I haven't heard, but I'll look into it. Thanks.

 

you can also remove the CRV, cap it off at the y-pipe and just run the line from the UIM to your main BOV.

 

PCV= Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

It was deleted on 95 RX-7's. You can remove it & cap both ends (UIM & oil filler neck). The lower line on the oil filler neck goes to the primary (front) turbo inlet elbow, next to the Oil inj line (yellow in diagram).

 

i have question about wastegate control actuator.
how does WAC works if nipple is caped?
don't you need pair solenoid(J&I)?

 

It looks like the line going to the boost controler is attached to the intake in the diagram, but it is not. It must sense boost from somewhere. You do not need the solenoids for the actuator to work, just a vaccum line to the UIM or turbo xover or something. Just needs to sense boost so it can open.

 

You don't have to cap those lines going through the LIM. Those 4 metal nipples, they just pass through the LIM, they don't go into the airstream, just for hose routing convenience. I think you can even rip them out of the LIM, twist w/ pliers and then pull