I am still waiting for my block off plates and i also am tyring to find out how i can get a hold of a mill to port the waste gates.

 

Holesaw

 

is that what you used? cause i am too scared that i will screw it up.

 

today i went to visit welding place and they asking $65 for filling in holes in manifolder and PCA. i think i got rob. they say it's going to be done by this coming friday. what do you guys think? if it's too much i want to check other places.

 

For 65$ you could have bought the plates and done it yourself.

 

can soneone explain to me what they used to port there waste gate hole, and how you make it right. im scared to death that i am going to end up messing it up somehow. (porting it too much, not gettin a perfect circle)

 

plates? i'm talking about exhust manifolder.

 

same here, i want to know, too

 

Close the flapper door over the hole. Take a pencil and trace the door over the hole. Take the door back. Port up to that line within 1/16". All you need to do is make sure that there is enough metal left that the flapper door will cover the hole and seal the opening.
Thats all, its not hard.

 

Dude I do not really understand this, with ONLY DOWN PIPE AND GUTTED CAT I was not getting ANY boost creep at all , with a BLEED! type boost controller. I mean are their other variables that cause boost spike? Cold Weather maybe?

 

i'm almost done

 

Yeah, or just use a sawzall like I did

For real though, I opted to go the machine shop route. 50 bucks well spent, and a perfect port.

 

"fold the perfect exhust everytime...thanks Exhust Manifolder"

Yeah, I know I am a bastard.

 

I had to use a sawzall to get the dam egr off my car. The two other bolts I could not get to unless the motor was out. So I said f*ck it , attacked that **** like a mad man! LoL My dad looked at me like I was crazy and thought I killed the motor LoL.

 

do you have power fc? if so, do you have map for non sequential?

 

I didn't have a power fc when I had non sequential. But now I do, since I am going single.
Search around on the pfc forum and you will find some maps for what you need.

 

anyone had success going non seq?

 

I'm starting this project tomorrow...we'll see how long it takes...

 

i just add greddy profec b-spec2, i didn't test drove yet, it rained.

 

Does it matter what color and which way around the resistores are placed into where the solenoids were?

 

Does it matter what color and which way around the resistores are placed into where the solenoids were?

 

We'll it took about 4-5 hours to take out everything, hoses/solenoids, and mounting the block off plates. Sunday is the day for the turbo flapper door mods and havent picked a day yet for the replacement of everything. Some of you guys make it sound harder than it really is ...

 

OK, I have just finished doing this Mod , right down to the diagram adzactly and it looks great, But now when I drive my car I get a loss of power and huge hesitation at 2500 - 3000 rpm, it doesnt feel like a vacume problem more like a fuel problem.
Also- with the 330ohm 1/2 watt resistors you replace the solenoids with do they have to be a certain way around to complete the circuit?? like a positive and negative end? if these were the wrong way around would it cause this type of symptoms??

 

Double check your vaccum connection with the map sensor. It is the sensor located on the firewall, and has a vaccum line that connects right after the throttle body on the firewall side of the upper intake manifold.
If this is loose, than your car will not rev past 2500-3000.
If that is fine, check to make sure your Throttle position sensor is plugged in.

 

Are you sure your not just in limp mode???
Disconnect the battery and pump the brake for a few seconds. Then try it again.