Do you HAVE weld and do all that flapper stuff?

 

form what i understand, yes you do. it helps the air flow to the second turbo. but i could be worng

 

Your Right. The reason I chose the lower intake manifold was so the wastegate would open and close based on actual manifold pressure.
With the ported wastegate, turbo's with some miles on them, and stock IC, I was experiencing the wastegate
opening and closing out of unison with my manifold pressure. This was causing dips in boost in mid to upper rpms under load. Relocating the wastegate vacuum line to the LIM solved the problem. This also allowed me to fine tune the boost at the rotors, instead of at the turbos.
However, if you do this, be warned that there may be as much as a 5 psi difference between manifold pressure and pressure at the turbo with stock IC and piping. Thus, If you boost 14 psi in this manner, the pressure at the turbo may spike close to 20psi.........bye bye turbo's.
This difference in pressure will be much less drastic if you have FMIC or Upgraded SMIC with better tubing.

 

No. You can cut the gates out with a grinder, have the manifold tapped and install cast iron pipe plugs in the holes. Of course, there's no going back. The flow is vastly improved, however.

I've posted pictures in other threads, but a friend's web site has a lot of the information you're looking for...
http://www.micromanx.com/goble/rx7/projects.html

This picture shows the completely removed gates (note the pipe plug on the bottom of the exhaust manifold at lower left).

 

how long does this project usually take?

 

Well it typically goes like this:

(Friday)
"I can have this finished by Sunday night"

In reality:

"Okay guys, it's been a month since my car was down to convert to non-seq. I decided to remove this, that, and the other thing, and now I'm having trouble getting the car to start."

 

Sounds familiar... Just replace the "month" with "year"..

 

Yea, but in your case you went full on single and everything else.

 

I'd say....take a winter...and take it slowly. I went from Dec till now, I'm just getting done on Fri, I hope. I double and triple checked EVERYTHING. If you go through it too fast your screwed, Pop goes the weasel. I also did PFC, injector cleaning, painted parts and NPR custom SMIC setup.

 

Or do like I did and have a second turbo assembly to modify while you remain sequential. Get all of your block off plates, resistors, tools, EVERYTHING ready before you even start. Oh yeah, make sure you have a car to get to the autoparts store, you WILL have to go. Took me 1 day to install doing it this way, and 1 day to get everything right. Then 2 weeks to blow those old turbo's because of a clogged hi flow cat (found out too late).
When I do my single, I will make a diagram for that also.

 

thanks for the help everyone!!!!!! ill post a thread when i do the project with pics and stuff! thanks again!

 

Any good results?

 

bump

 

Just got done with the coversion... I don't know if I did right, but the car sounded funny. It's loud and has a high tone now... otherwise I haven't had enough time to test out the car.

 

It is louder because the turbo control gate is now fully open all of the time - allowing more exhaust out.

 

Ya results, its great. Full boost around 4000k but thats with a bleeder valve a boost controller would probably bring it lower. Running 10 lbs at the manifold 12 at the turbos. They sound insanely loud but nothing big. BTW If you want to talk about loud exhaust run around without a muffler thats what Ive been doing for a few days =P

 

Hey Im a newbie and I just wanted to say that I love the diagram and the arguments Ive read so far. Its good to have both sides give their views.
And I guess my true question to the panel of experts is what should I expect in PLUS $ costs if Ive got a stock twin non-seq. setup not yet installed and no parts (ie block off plates, etc.). I just bought this setup, along with a downpipe, midpipe, exhaust, and upgraded intake setup. Ive got a mechanic down here that I actually trust with my car and my baby (RX-7). Im scared to think he'll be working on my car til summers over.

 

2 flapers are done but not wastegate door. does it make any difference? if so, how or can i live it as is?

thanks

 

bump

 

The reason for porting the wastegate is to help keep down or prevent boost creep. I personally do not see the need for it, but I will say that every car is different. When i ported my engine everyone told me that when I put it all back together ( i also have the full non sequential) that I would need to port the wastegate or I would be creepin all over the place. Mostly because how much I open up my exhaust ports. I got lazy and decided to take a chance and leave the wastegate be.
I do not have any problems whatsoever controlling boost. I have never had boost creep with my current set up. I do run with a straight open exhaust, full non sequential, SP engine, turbo smart manual boost controller running 15psi with no problems to date.
So its up to you weather or not you wanna port your wastegate. Most say that you should but I have proved that you do not necessarily have to.

 

Well , guys is this ( fc1iz diagrama ) the better , and reliable system for no-seg ?
I m thinking to use it for my FD !
thanks.

 

i'm going to live it as is, i'll take risk....

 

The issue is that if you DO get creep you'll surely be kicking yourself in the *** for not doing it now.

In addition, you can smooth the interior of the manifold and remove the TC gate, resulting in better flow rates.

 

can anyone tell me what is boost creep?

 

As the RPMs rise, the wastegate cant let out enough exhaust and it goes into the turbos and gives you more boost more than what you want.