I disagree with the "steam cleaning the apex seals so they scar up the rotor housings" argument. When piston engine people talk about the steam-cleaning side benefits of WI over time, you'll note that it's the components that aren't meant to have the amount of oil film on them for lubrication like the cylinder walls. Yes, the valves, piston domes, ring lands (above the oil control rings) etc. get cleaned nice and purty over time, but those parts don't get (and aren't intended to get) a continuous supply of oil. Now think about the rotary: since its internal components exposed to the combustion chamber don't have the benefit of an oil bath like a piston engine, the oil is either injected into the intake stream with an OMP or premix. Thus, the oil is dispersed onto the parts along with the water droplets, but the water turns to gas (and dissipates the heat) long before it gets a chance to displace the oil (as long as you aren't pumping too much water into the combustion chamber).

I'm not so sure that positioning the injectors towards the direction of the intake charge path is such a good idea either. You'll be causing some turbulence and hamper good flow into the combustion chamber. If you're concerned with trying to cool the intake charge better before it gets to the combustion chamber, I'd mount the nozzle farther upstream in the intake path, like your IC output end tank nozzle. Even though you feel the cooling effects of the positioning up at the IC end of the elbow when testing without the engine running, remember that when you're boosting, the intake charge is headed in the opposite direction at a fairly high rate of speed, so it won't get to that point in practical terms.

 

yeah forget my dumb parts question you covered that well.

about your new nozzle placement. i definitely like not spraying it sorta right at the side of the elbow. but now you're increasing (however slightly) the chance of something getting sucked into the engine. also disrupting the airflow a bit i guess.

trying to visualize...is the nozzle up against the side of the elbow or in the middle of space inside? with the 1.5in pipe it sounds as if its in the middle. are you using locktite or anything to secure the nozzle to the pipe?

i'm pokin around the net now ready to order up some parts.

 

ok trying to find parts.
napa catalog has no entry for that pressure switch, number 701-1575.

the summit one mentioned, part number NOS-15660 is listed as "normally open". this means that normally the circuit is open, but when it hits whatever psi you set it at (4-7 adj) it closes the circuit. right?
just checkin.

any links for a lower psi pressure switch? neither site seems to have one.

since you went to a smaller line (3/8 to .17) did you have to change fittings???

 

part # on solenoid? saw the pic but nothing matches.

was it:

4590K11
Brass Miniature Solenoid Valve 120 VAC, Normally Closed, 50/60Hz, 1/4" NPT Female
$ 31.09 Each

so yeah, specific clarification on solenoid and pressure switch.

think i'll try the lowest flowing nozzle, 3178k61. .63 gph @ 40psi. that should be about it for ordering stuff. rest'll be home depot runs

 

I followed aquamist's advice I think they are right on.

15. Should the water jet be facing the direction of the in-coming air? Two possible locations, if the jet is to be installed along an induction pipe, point it at 90 degrees to the direction of the air flow. Position the jet furthest away form the throttle body as this will enable better mixing and intercooling properties. If the jet is installed at the end-tank of the intercooler, point the jet in such a way that it has the greatest cavity to accommodate the 90 degree spray pattern.

So I have one at the endtank and one in the elbow facing the air. I want to make sure its turned to steam before entering the engine. I took 2 drives with it so far and my intake temps seem to be about what they were previously, seen no changes, but i have not done alot of testing.

 

Im gonna send you to page 4.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=4

You can find all the info on there. You can use 3/8 or 1/4 NPT threads on the selenoid, if you run the small .17 inch hose like I do, the 1/4 thread is best.

Also, that .63 is about .84 @ 60 psi. You need more than that. You should run around 5 GPH total, unless you have a single turbo or dyno queen. I would try the 3.16 @ 40 which is about 3.84 @ 60 (at a minimum).

Also, you know this is for your car, so you obviously need a 12 VDC, right? hehe.

 

90deg to the direction of airflow...that wouldn't be opposite the airflow would it? perpendicular it seems, like across it...

 

ok finally read the write up in one of the links didn't realize it was there. sorry

 

I dunno, it probably doesn't even matter, lol.

 

of course its not, thats 120V AC, you need a 12VDC for your CAR.

(If you install WI in your house get the 120VAC).

goto www.turbomirage.com/water.html and click parts. You will see a part # for the selenoid. you can get 1/4 or 3/8 outlets. I got 1/4 outlets.

 

did you set the pressure switch the same way as in the write up?

 

you can do it like that, or you can change it with an allen wrench, drive the car see where it turns on at and keep adjusting till its right. I didn't want to spend $30.00 for that miti-vac.

 

i think i have one already, tried to bleed brakes with it and it sucks.

btw, 7876K68 and 7876K12 are now the same part at mcmaster, its the solenoid.

 

ordered everything, but still wondering if you're using locktite or anything to seal the connections, especially nozzle to fitting.

 

oh btw, is this the fuel filter

http://www.seffects.com/catalog/prod...ory=&Category=


the other write up didn't use one.

 

Its up to you, but not a good idea if you want to upgrade later. Just torque them down tight.

I cant use a fuel filter now that my line is .17 inch. I use a screen that connects to thend of the hose in the water bottle.

 

You know I was accually going to suggest this idea a while ago. I figured you probably were getting tired of my ideas. Ha ha ha!!!

Pointing the nozzels in the opposite direction of flow would be more benificial to the misting effect of the nozzels. Think about this example. Grab a water hose on a windy day and pray it with the direction of the wind. Notice how most of the water droplets will stay together all the way to the ground. Now turn around and spray in to the wind. The water will spread and feather out into thousands of water droplets. You will also get that cool sensation when the water mist blows past you. This exact same principal would apply to the WI nozzels.

 

this is what Im thinking, the force of the hot air ramming the cold water has to be pretty dramatic, lol.

BTW, I found a GEM of an item, its only $150.00. Can this work on the FD with a Power FC to control the flow of water?

http://www.autospeed.com.sg/cms/article.html?&A=0578

 

It still seems to me that you're also maximizing the turbulance in the elbow, which I don't think is ideal. If Aquamist recommends spraying at 90 degrees to the incoming air, wouldn't the ideal place be the side of the elbow before the curve, pointing directly across to the other side?

Btw, could you use one of those Greddy elbows with the bung for an extra injector for this purpose?

jds

 

I just re-read your post about wanting to spray in a wide area so you mist before it hits the other side and runs into the IC. So never mind on that one!

QUOTE]Originally posted by bureau_c
It still seems to me that you're also maximizing the turbulance in the elbow, which I don't think is ideal. If Aquamist recommends spraying at 90 degrees to the incoming air, wouldn't the ideal place be the side of the elbow before the curve, pointing directly across to the other side?

Btw, could you use one of those Greddy elbows with the bung for an extra injector for this purpose?

jds [/QUOTE]

 

I still like the DIY set up but I did find this kit yesterday
http://www.smcenterprises.com/injector_kit.htm it's about 500 if you buy the set up that changes the pump speed based on boost.

m ark

 

There are alot of kits out there, this one looks ok from what i can see, but again its $500 vs less than $150. if you are going to spend $500 you should get AQUAMIST, they are the best.

 

what type / brand of gauge are you using to measure intake temps? Does it responde quickly to temp changes?

mark

 

Ok, here's where i try to give back after all the pestering. I emailed a bunch of aquamist's US suppliers and only one has responded, Kansas City Saab, which is where I believe luv94rx7 got his kit. I have a price list of all the individual components and you can order anything individually. Contact info:
Brad
George's Imports Ltd.
816-333-6582
brad@kcsaab.com


Some interesting things:
Water level sensor kit, $32
Inline water filter, $11
Their nozzles/jets are expensive though, $16.
Sizes .4mm to 1mm in .1mm increments, 4mm hosetail.

i'm going to attach the pdf as a zip file. its a bit long to copy/paste. I'll probably order the filter and a couple of the smaller nozzles...

 

ok, just talked to brad over there. good guy, knew the systems and didn't down me for not just ordering a kit

he recommended the .9mm nozzle for the rx7, so i got one of those and a .6 to compare. also he said they run 4mm hose, and i think .27 inner diameter? which is different than the site if i remember. i ordered some of that so i'll see what it looks like. also ordered their inline filter.

i didn't get a gph on the nozzle but he said they should be run at 45psi over however much boost you run. so on my 1bar (14.7lbs) boost setting i'll be pushing the pump to the max i guess.

also, he said the thread on their nozzles is very fine and the tap was not commonly available, so i splurged and got that from him as well, $20.

if this thread is still around i'll post pics.