Sorry Guys my computer is to slow and I do'nt have time
flip thru all these pages to find this info.. Yea I am still
Dial up.

So Zerobanger..
You are selling this as a complete kit with all options.
How much is it Shipped? and does it come with
" DETAILED" instructions on the install??

 

yes, its a complete kit, either dual or single stage. Click on my sig for more info.

 

zero,

does that include the water tank?

 

Haven't seen you around in a while! It doesn't include the tank, but it includes everything else. That means it will have the harness (well labelled), switches, water filters, vacuum hoses, water hoses, tees, solenoids, pressures switches, pump, brass fittings, injectors, etc.

The prices that I sell them for today INCLUDES shipping, btw.

I cant include the pump because everyone will mount the water injection in different locations. You can use anything. For example if you look at this one you will see I have 2 tanks. The 2nd pic shows you that they are perfectly hidden when you put the cover on.

Some of you will want to put custom tank in your bin, some will do this. Others may want to use the one in the engine bay. Or add a new one in the engine bay (perhaps where the R1 oil cooler is on R1 models).



[img[http://davidhillsoftware.com/rx7/pump2.jpg[/img]

 

Let me know when you have the write up done. I definitely would like to read it and see the parts list!

 

Im still working on my site, here are the basics.

www.davidhillsoftware.com/waterinjection.html

 

I PM'd you.

 

group buy going on right now

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=327093

 

I have been running pretty much the same setup as you for about 2 years now. I havent done anything about the stumble yet though. My consideration as to how I will remedy the situation is a bit different than yours though.
I am thinking what I will do is get an RPM switch. At a certain PSI sprayer will come on, then above that PSI after you hit a certain RPM the other comes on. I have decided that just the dual boost system wont be effective bacause you can build high boost at a low rpm, that will pump alot of water through the system but not alot of air and that is what causes the hesitation. The RPM switch in there will ensure you are flowing alot of air before the second sprayer comes online. When I finally get around to doing this I will post the results, hopefully within the next month or 2.

PS, my Shurflo water pump went out a couple weeks ago. I pulled it apart to find a diaphram disfigured. I dont know if it is due to the heat or from running 50/50 water/alcohol. Well I found a guy that sells parts for the pump and I got a new diaphram assembly. The new replacement is better quality looking piece and pumps alot more water than the original ever did! Took me forever to find but if anybody ever needs a replacement it is part number 94-390-08 and is called a Valve Kit.

 

Tom, its just too much water. You have a choice of going to a smaller nozzle OR....


As I said in my thread I did alot of research over the last year. The RPM switch will work, but its going to be a PIA to install. MSD does sell the switch for around 100 and then you need to buy the RPM modules.

If you have the power FC you can do another trick. This worked for me. You can set the first turbo to run 11 to 11.5 psi and the 2nd turbo to run 12+ PSI and set the boost switch to come on at 12+. that will also resolve your situation. You can do this by lowering the solendoid duty settings in your power fc for the first turbo, put the car in 5th gear and see what it maxes at. Keep lowering until you are just below where the water comes on. then Up the duty on the 2nd turbo.

The real answer though is to get a smaller nozzle OR goto a dual stage. what size nozzle do you have and what are your injectors? I can give you an idea based on my research what I think would work.

 

here is a possible solution to your RPM problem....just wire a switch to the bottom of the gas pedal so that when you floor the car the system injects water...have another switch( a main off and on switch near the radio or stick shift) that turns it on and off....kinda like a nitrous sytem....how many of us floor the car at 1000rpm?...if you are below 4000rpm leave the main switch off...when you get close to 4000 turn the main switch on and from there on(in a race or on the track) you will be above 4000rpm(you better be or you are in the wrong gear and will loose) and the system will activate again and again when you floor the car and it will stop injecting water when you let off the pedal..how you like that?!?!

 

Actually, that sounds like a really good idea, the transition can almost be sort of a built-in RPM switch. I think I am going to go with that.
As for the size of my nozzle, I dont remember off the top of my head. My water injection started out as a Spearco kit. I am only using the tank and the middle size sprayer from that, but off the top of my head I cannot remember what GPM it is. It is enough GPM to bog me down for a second when I first let off the gas but if I go any smaller it doesnt keep the temps down when the RPM's get up high. I am definately planning some kind of dual stage setup and I think your 2nd turbo higher boost suggestion is the answer.
thanks
Tom

 

cool, I hope it works for you. Like I said, I have done extensive testing on my system over the last year and learned alot of tricks. Im so happy with my system now.

 

i am running this resevoir, it prevents sloshing and holds a good bit, is also very stable

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2484116194

you can remove all of the marine specific items

 

where do you keep your resevoir? Where in buckhead are you? I guess were neighbors, lol.

 

www.davidhillsoftware.com/videos.html

right click and save as. These are videos of the water injecting into my intake elbow.

 

There is just over 1 week left in the group buy, we hit the lowest price which is $280 for a dual stage and $190 for a single stage (shipping included).

I have developed some modules to work with the system. There is a DIN panel that has a water pressure sensor attached to it. Here is a pic.



the first button Arms/Disarms. The second turns stage I off. The first LED lights up ONLY while water is injected. If the system stays lit after you let off the gas you have a clogged Nozzle. The second LED lights up when stage I is active and the last LED lights up when stage II is active.

I have some movies if anyone wants to see the testing I did at my house.
www.coolingmist.com/upgrades.html.

if you want to get in on the group buy feel free to click my sig.

 

I have a friend, a mechanical engineer I was speaking to yeaterday. He told me that he created a water injection system for his turbo mustang. He made a simple system whereby (if I understood him correctly), he plumbed a small hose from a boost source (such as the vacuum gauge fitting, into a water tank, and then back to the intake stream.

The hose from the boost signal also has a one way valve to keep water from entering the system during vacuum.

In his system, if the car goes into boost, the water automatically gets injected into the intake stream; and the more the boost, the more the water.

I think I might try this out. The question would be, without a intake temp gauge, how would I know if it was doing any good.

Also, if I keep the tank below the intake tract, shouldn't this keep the water tank from draining when the car is just sitting? If not, could a solenoid switch as you all describe earlier be used to turn off the water when the engine is not running?

I'd be interested in hearing some comments.

 

BLKTOPTRVL,

IT sounds great in theory but there is no way using boost pressure will atomize the water like a 60 or 100 psi water pump will. You will end up with a stream of water rather than a fog.

 

Sure, but like so many things posted, I am curious as to what is really needed. Why does it need to be atomized in such a fine mist.

I wonder if anyone else has tried this as my friend ran 5 lbs over stock for a year or so on 87 pump until the system crashed when he ran it dry.

Please note that I am not questioning your understanding on this. I am just gathering information from all the sources I can.

One of my thoughts on this is that there is no hi-pressure pump on a carburator used to atomize the gas... As I understand it, it is just the venturi effect that atomizes the gas (If I remember correctly from HS shop).

So, I wonder if for most applications, whether or not this would be adequate.

Personally, I will probably buy a complete kit, becase I do want somethign that has been well engineered and thought through. I just don't want to buy parts because the manufacturer can make more money be selling something "needed."

 

If it doesn't atomize it will not work.

Take a stream of water and spray on your hand in a hot day. Then take a windex bottle and fill with water. Put it on the fine mist setting and spray on your hand.

The atomization makes the water evaporate. Its the evaporation that makes the water injecting effective.

 

.

 

Yes, but what I am saying is that there is a difference between atomization (venturi effect) and atomization (high pressure pump and nozzle).

One will produce much finer atomization than another. But how much is enough?

 

There is one answer, the finer the better. Period. The more fine the atomization, the less water you need to use. boost psi is not enough to produce atomization.

 

Boost does not need to produce atomization. Boost provides a free pump. Atomization occurs because of the introduction of the water into the stream via a venturi.