i regret modifying my quarter panel with a fencepost

lol

 

thats why i left my car alone, its quiet smooth comfy and fast. if i wanted loud and uncomfortable i have the t2, plus i havent had any trouble with the thing. its prolly the most reliable fd on the planet.

 

dont know if i posted it here yet but i regret buying the rotary extreme engine torque brace thing..its useful yeah but i took it out and was still able to prevent the 2nd to 5th shifts..i guess i got used to the car pretty fast..

so ill be selling that soon..any takers?

 

^ hmm how much do you have in mind?

 

Going with an XS FMIC. If I had to do it over again, I would have just went with a Greddy 2 row and called it a day.

 

umm dont know yet, i have to go in my basement and inspect it for scratches, missing bolts etc etc..

ill post a for sale thread on it in a couple of days with pics

 

Ramy, you should regret your wing


Anyway, I regret buying my first FD. I was in such a hurry to get it that I sold my honda to a dealer and got raped on the price, then I drove out to michigan (although the trip was fun) and bought a black 95 R2 that I thought was in better condition than it was. I brought it home and had to start fixing it... I sold it 8 months later and lost about $3500 total in that time.

But now I have a GORGEOUS, all stock, all original CYM. I don' think I'll ever sell this one

 

DAMN man. ALL you guys are sweatin me about this freakin wing lol. WOW. It's like priority numero uno for you guys, huh? I'M CHANGING IT...I'M CHANGING IT. Happy? lol (and no it ain't cuz you guys are hasslin me...it's cuz I actually want one w/ less drag ie w/ the teardrop shape, as I've come to learn, aka a spoiler )

Oh, and congrats on the CYM Charlie! I wanna see her sometime!

 

i regret gutting the main cat. it was a pain to do and also unnecessary.

 

I have urathane MM...I noticed it stiffent up a bit but not too bad. I also have a torq brace and i don't feel my car jigglin

 

Forgive my ignorance, but what are the stock motor mounts made of? Because I thought urethane ones would actually absorb the movement and virbations better than the stock ones...

 

When I saw my stock ones come out all crumbled up, it looked like it was just some heavy duty black rubber. dunno

 

stock ones are liquid filled rubber. urethane is much stiffer and is not liquid filled. Transfers more vibs but keeps the engine from twisting. I love stiff MM's. Of course i run solid bobble struts which most say is too extreme for the street (not in the FD of course since it doesn't have one )

 

The stock motor mounts are not liquid filled. The diff bushings are, IIRC.

 

I don't regret buying a FD.....
But times I do regret not buyting a FC turbo.

I'll add more once i do work to the car....but I guess I do regret the cheap 10$ shift *** that replaced the "not there ***" when i bought the car. It dosn't stay locked into place and rattles to high heaven over 3k rpm.

 

So do the $40 Momo shift *****, since they use those horrid set screws to stay in place for oh, about 30 seconds

 

Dude, I have a Momo with the set screws. I also had problem with the rattling. You really have to torq down on each screw equally for it to hold well. If you don't it shakes loose after a short time. Mine's been on for a year now and still holding. No vibration.

 

What didja use to torque 'em so hard? An air gun? The screws look kinda flimsy, so I didn't wanna overdo it. But I guess I'll just try and torque 'em more. As for the rattle, I have that too, but that problem is two-fold: 1) That bottom ring that screws on to the bottom of the shift **** comes loose w/ the normal vibration of driving, and I can't seem to fasten it tight enough so it won't come lose (and don't wanna JB weld it on, cuz then it's on permanently haha). I was thinking of using some plumbing tape (the thin white one)? And 2) The Momo **** isn't (counter)weighted, so the B&M shortshifter (another excellent mod) rattles a bit. No biggie...I'm going w/ the 5 speed illuminated RX-8 **** (courtesy of Herblenny) anyways (which is weighted)

 

Thread tape is your frined. I tried loc-tite but had a hard time getting it off and came close to scratching it up. Now it's wrapped a few times with thread tape and seems to hold it into place better. Also, I just used an allen wrench and cranked hard on it. but make sure you crank evenly on all 3 screws. But they are strong and can take a good crankin

 

Thread tape...that's what it's called... (the white plumbing tape haha). Yea the tightening evenly is a bit tricky, since you can't see the rear screw. Gotta start counting how many turns you've completed...

 

I have a B&M **** which has a plastic insert that you fit to the threads on your shifter and torque down onto the shifter - the threads tap out by themselves and it is very secure. The outside of the insert is threaded and the inside of the **** is tapped, so you screw the **** onto the insert and it locks down semi-permanantly. It beats the hell outta set screws. I have one on my Audi and I plan on getting another just like it for the 7 (it's about time I start dealing with cosmetic stuff).

http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/b...l_shift_knobs/

 

I actually bought this adapter not too long ago for my Momo shift ****, but have since lost it somewhere in my room (lol) so I obviously haven't used it. http://www.gomiata.com/timomiad.html

 

no kidding...the n1 dual sucked and melted my bumper.


j

 

oh i forgot..AEM ignition....crap...all of them...went through four of them in a week. FOUR.

went with the msd instead.

j

 

I like my N1 Dual.

For the shifter set screw use blue Locktite (removable strength) and tighten them down, then leave them set overnight. I tightened mine so much they dimpled the shift rod (another car, not my FD). Also the tape you are referring to is teflon tape used for sealing plumbing or air fittings.