this is my first time doing suspension work beyond end links and sway bar bushings so I appreciate the responses to my simple questions.

I'll be changing out tie rods, end links as well as LCA bushings in the front. I've pulled all these components and moved the caliper out of the way. I started to work on the lca nut that attaches to the hub and realise I have no resistance and the hub just rotates. I tried to zippy tie the outer tie rod to the lca but it snapped immediately. how do I keep my hubs from turning? I'm afraid to use the steering lock and damaging it.

The tie rod end was a PITA to remove. once I get the nut off the LCA any suggestions? I don't want to damage this boot at all if possible.

 

If you're going that deep I would remove the A-arms and the whole thing from the car and work on it on the bench.

Also impact tools help HUGE in doing suspension work. It's damn near impossible with plain hand tools.

I'm not 100% sure what fastener you are having problems removing - can you put a picture up of the exact thing you're having problems with?

Dale

 

I was planning on pulling the LCA and taking it to a friend's place with a press to do the bushings. I have a lightweight impact driver and a breaker bar 🤣.

here is the nut I'm referring to at this stage.

 

Yeah that should just come right off with a good hit of an impact gun. Needs to soak in penetrating oil as well.

Those ball joints are built in to the lower control arms FYI.

Dale

 

Yep, take the nut off with an impact. That's the best way.

Be cautious when popping that ball joint out of the spindle. They tend to get a little stuck and you might be tempted to wail on the ball joint stud with a hammer.

Do not give in to this temptation, that ball joint cannot be replaced so if you damage it you need another control arm. Use a rubber mallet if you must, or find a youtube video that shows how to loosen a ball joint by tapping on the control arm itself with a mallet/hammer.

 

Usually use a floor jack to put upward pressure on the joint, making sure the car isn't lifting off the hoist arms or stands. I'd put the bolt at least back in the shock mount and keep the nut on the steering arm until it's loose.

The biggest issue will be separating the taper, I use a heavy steel drift and a 3 or 4lb hammer on the steel upright to shock the interface apart rather than use dodgy ball joint separators....and keep the nut engaged by a few threads until it comes apart.

 

There are various balljoint separation tools out there that can often work much better than trying to hammer it out. Here's an example:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...4739253?pos=21

Don't use a pickle fork though. That will tear the boot and I'm not sure if there are replacement boots.

Also keep in mind that the ball joints are not replaceable aka serviceable. You're supposed to replace the entire lca when the ball join wears out. There might be a thread around somewhere on here about replacing that lower balljoint but I don't remember whether anyone was ever successful.

When it came time to freshen my bushings on the lca, I wound up buying a new arm since the balljoint was worn too. There was a thread on here about cheap reproductions on rockauto or something. Search for it if interested.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I've got a feeling the impact driver I have (electric) isn't going to be up for it but will try it before using the breaker bar on that nut. I've got one ball joint press I'll probably use in conjunction with some of the suggestions here to try and salvage the arm. If it really goes sideways I'll likely replace with new aftermarket arms, or if the ball joint itself is worn out.

 

its tough. how much are you guys banging on the round?

 

 

got that b****** off!

for future searchers. I rotated and hit from all sides. also jacked from the hub directly so it was super stable. and hit with moderate force. ball peen hammer.

saga continues.

 

It definitely can be a bitch and half
Persistence pays