Position of jack stands, steering work
I am about to put in new control arm bushings, tie rod ends (inner and outer) sway bar bushings, ball joints and adjusters. This may sound dumb but a friend told me I had to know excactly where to put jack stands while doing this. anybody know? Thanks
Last edited by Theknifemaker; Dec 8, 2006 at 09:05 PM. Reason: spelling
avoid pinch welds and floor boards, other than that i dont think there is a special place specificaly for suspension work, i prefer the "framerail" before the firewall area or crossmember. Just make sure you align the car after your done..... and that you thread the tierod adjuster(center piece) in evenly to each of the tierod ends.
Yeah, what Doc said or you can put them at the front cross member (which is what I did). Before you start your suspension work, get a can of PB Blaster and soak EVERYTHING with it.
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Originally Posted by wackyracer
hell no. the frame will collapse or will give in. notice that most of the frames are dented?
Place the jack stands in in the darn engine cross member.
Place the jack stands in in the darn engine cross member.
You put it on the closest part where the reinforcement of the frame is as pictured.
Originally Posted by rx7doctor
You don't put it on the square channel of the frame bonehead,lol.
You put it on the closest part where the reinforcement of the frame is as pictured.
You put it on the closest part where the reinforcement of the frame is as pictured.
Yea put them on the flat area of the framerail where you can see that the metal is doubled/overlapped. Theres plenty of strength there.
Originally Posted by rx7doctor
You don't put it on the square channel of the frame bonehead,lol.
You put it on the closest part where the reinforcement of the frame is as pictured.
You put it on the closest part where the reinforcement of the frame is as pictured.
******** stop buying cheap *** camera from $0.99 store. I can also see blur from that shitty *** pix.
FWIW - I had my SA jacked in the front on the engine cross member for a few weeks and the weight of the car started to collapse it (!). Have the dents to prove it 
Point maybe don't keep it on stands for a l-o-o-ong time, regardless of location (rear axles being the exception)
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

Point maybe don't keep it on stands for a l-o-o-ong time, regardless of location (rear axles being the exception)
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Originally Posted by 7aull
FWIW - I had my SA jacked in the front on the engine cross member for a few weeks and the weight of the car started to collapse it (!). Have the dents to prove it 
Point maybe don't keep it on stands for a l-o-o-ong time, regardless of location (rear axles being the exception)
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

Point maybe don't keep it on stands for a l-o-o-ong time, regardless of location (rear axles being the exception)
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Originally Posted by wackyracer
******** stop buying cheap *** camera from $0.99 store. I can also see blur from that shitty *** pix. 

Originally Posted by Theknifemaker
Thanks for the input guys. So I take it is the crossmember close to the control arm. Problem is now that it is just to damn cold to work on. I hate being without it.
I hear you. Me too, I cant work below 60 degrees here in LA.
Originally Posted by wackyracer
I hear you. Me too, I cant work below 60 degrees here in LA. 

Originally Posted by rx7doctor
Yep, problem is when it gets colder then that in La, the smog becomes so thick that you can't see where your going. But you guy's just call it Gray Fog.

Smogfornia rules!!!
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