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Crazy hot cabin heat, how to keep heat out of cabin?
Running single turbo for a while now, I have everything twill weave titanium wrapped from the trans tunnel to all the way to my (new) RB exhaust...and still I sweat inside the cabin, and my right leg gets super hot after an hour or so of driving. It seems like it's coming from the shifter/console area. Is there a new updated 2021 method to keep the heat out of the cabin?
I had my engine and transmission out so I sprayed the entire firewall and exterior trans tunnel with a product called lizard skin. I also placed an adhesive lined heat blocker on the interior trans tunnel, but I think that only had a minimal affect. The lizard skin really works and there is now no noticeable heat transfer into the cabin. My car used to get uncomfortably hot inside the cabin, but that doesn’t happen anymore.
Hit the track yesterday in 93 degree weather here in Texas. No complaints during the day or on the hour+ driver home, other it just being a hot day. Car has a 7670 and original carpet, no modifications to trans tunnel.
Yeah I actually still have all that, and still, it gets crazy hot after driving 1+ hours.
Originally Posted by AHarada
I had my engine and transmission out so I sprayed the entire firewall and exterior trans tunnel with a product called lizard skin. I also placed an adhesive lined heat blocker on the interior trans tunnel, but I think that only had a minimal affect. The lizard skin really works and there is now no noticeable heat transfer into the cabin. My car used to get uncomfortably hot inside the cabin, but that doesn’t happen anymore.
Thanks for the recco on the Lizard Skin spray. I was looking into this
adhesive heat blocker but according to what you said it's minimal? Guessing I can spray Lizard Skin on the underside and call it a day - did you do both that and the lined heat blocker?
One other thing to check is the rubber boots around the shifter. If those are torn up or missing, the hot air from the underside will have an unimpeded path into the cabin. Remove the shift ****, shifter trim panel & leather shifter boot and take a look.
I'm planning on DEI floor and tunnel shielding, heard good things but you need to drop the drivetrain to install it properly. My dead pedal gets super hot after a while, I can feel the heat soaking in through the firewall
Maybe off the wall, but is the tranny fluid low or need replaced?
Also, does the right hand side of your dash board get hot? Reason I ask....I was running a Profec B to control boost and it was conflicting with the Power FC. The wastegate was going nuts and would cause an enormous amount of heat inside the cabin. Down the center console and dash area.
Maybe off the wall, but is the tranny fluid low or need replaced?
Also, does the right hand side of your dash board get hot? Reason I ask....I was running a Profec B to control boost and it was conflicting with the Power FC. The wastegate was going nuts and would cause an enormous amount of heat inside the cabin. Down the center console and dash area.
Ok that's exactly my setup, and I can feel the dead-pedal get very warm after a few pulls (I like to drive barefoot). What was the issue? How did you fix it? I've already ordered all the single turbo bits, maybe it's not worth the time now to sort this out..
All fluids were just done, along with a brake rebuild. Still running very very hot in the cabin. @DaleClark Not sure if the trans heat shields are there, I will check. But I think a bunch of aftermarket heat shielding and Swaintech White Lightning coating is the real fix.
The trans tunnel heat shields will make a big difference, any time you can get a shield and air gap between a heat source it makes a huge difference. May also want to look into ceramic coating your downpipe, that is huge how well it works to keep heat in.
The trans tunnel heat shields will make a big difference, any time you can get a shield and air gap between a heat source it makes a huge difference. May also want to look into ceramic coating your downpipe, that is huge how well it works to keep heat in.
Dale
I have my DP, MP and upper intake Ceramic coated. When the PFC was fighting with the Profec B boost controller, it got really hot really fast.
I ended up removing the Solenoid lines from the Profec B, hooked up stock lines to wastegate. Allowing the PFC to control boost. Here is a thread for reference(post from Arghx):
So your profec B doesn't do anything other than work as a boost gauge? What needs to be done to get the PFC to play nice with everything as far as the settings go? I checked out the thread, not much to go on. I'm running non-sequential. I guess these are questions for the PFC tuning group
So your profec B doesn't do anything other than work as a boost gauge? What needs to be done to get the PFC to play nice with everything as far as the settings go? I checked out the thread, not much to go on. I'm running non-sequential. I guess these are questions for the PFC tuning group
For some reason the link didnt work. Try this one. If for some reason it doesnt, Look at the bottom of ArghX post #10 on my original link and it will take you to the correct thread. More information.
Ok found the link. I think there's documents in the tuning notes covering it as well
What happens when they fight each other? Why is extra heat being created? Is this an issue that will persist with a single? My boost is solid, once it builds (laggy non sequential) I don't have any boost issues. I'm hesitant to start messing with things.
You can make a Greddy Profec work. Exactly which one do you have? There have been a few versions over the years. The instructions are horrible, and that's often leads to misunderstanding about what settings to use. Or you can use the Power FC. It's not perfect, but it has the advantage of being loggable and controlling precontrol and wastegate separately.
See this thread about various boost controllers. It isn't updated to the absolute latest ones out there but the principles are the same.
Ok found the link. I think there's documents in the tuning notes covering it as well
What happens when they fight each other? Why is extra heat being created? Is this an issue that will persist with a single? My boost is solid, once it builds (laggy non sequential) I don't have any boost issues. I'm hesitant to start messing with things.
What I think is happening is that if both are hooked up, and likely they have different settings for controlling the wastegate they will fight each other and open/close through the RPM range with boost. Likely capturing a significant amount of heat for the turbos/motor area.
I'm not sure what version I have, but it's a super common setup here in Thailand and it's running without any issues apart from slow boost buildup. It's the small one with a screen and a large dial. I really think the heat is just from running 1-1.2 BAR on a bare downpipe with no firewall shielding and ambient temps in the 90's most of the time lol
Swaintech will be getting my business soon for the single turbo parts
I don't notice any more heat from the transmission tunnel in my FD than I do from my RX8. There's some, but nothing close to making the cabin uncomfortable with the AC working even during the summer.
If the hvac flappers inside the dash have old cracked/missing foam its possible you are getting some extra heat creeping in from the heater core.
09-13-21, 09:43 AM
Crazy hot cabin heat, how to keep heat out of cabin?
