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another vote for PFC. I just looked at the Link website and noticed that it doesn't even come with a base map - just a startup map. The PFC comes with a reasonably good base map loaded up that you can just plug in and drive.
Haltech also has a plug n play option but unsure if it comes with a base map.
If you order the PFC from one of the better rotary shops they may be willing to load a map that was done for a car they tuned that had similar mods. It won't be 100% and there will be lots of disclaimers, but it will be close enough to allow you to drive to the shop to have the actual tuning done, with less worry than a real base map that is meant to only allow the car to start.
power fc will be your option here. there is not better or best version of it. you dont have a "choice" between the 8 or 16 bit. depending on the year of your car, you will buy the 8 or 16 bit. 92-95 is 8 and 96 and up is 16. you will look at your current ecu to verify though. square white plugs are 16bit and rectangle yellow plugs are 8bit.
Going to be the dissenting opinion here, and say it depends on your budget and your tuner. PFC is fine and dandy, but Haltech does have a basemap for the twins, and the feature set is night and day.
It's bundled with the NSP software and I don't want anyone to use it as a source of truth, so here's a screen.
I personally used it as a base on my stock 94 Touring with the banzai auto ecu adapter. All emissions functions work as far as I can tell, as does the twins control. It does require a 2000/2500 due to input count so it's a touch pricey.
It's bundled with the NSP software and I don't want anyone to use it as a source of truth, so here's a screen.
I personally used it as a base on my stock 94 Touring with the banzai auto ecu adapter. All emissions functions work as far as I can tell, as does the twins control. It does require a 2000/2500 due to input count so it's a touch pricey.
The Haltech is an amazing computer but for 99% of cases it's total overkill for a modded twin car. You can make all the power you want with a PFC and have the car up and running in 15 minutes.
With FC-Tweak you can easily autotune the car yourself as well. See my recent thread on the topic.
At this point not many people have really run the Haltech on a sequential twin car. Also a lot of the tuners that do Haltech don't want to fool with sequential, they would rather you have a single turbo.
The PFC 100% supports the twins out of the box, plug and play and the car immediately runs and works like it should. I would only do Haltech if you really want to get your hands dirty learning it, want all the extra features, etc. But mind you there's a great possibility you will have a LOT of troubleshooting and work ahead of you just to get to "car starts runs and drives and the twins work" which takes 15 minutes to do on a PFC.
The Haltech is an amazing computer but for 99% of cases it's total overkill for a modded twin car. You can make all the power you want with a PFC and have the car up and running in 15 minutes.
With FC-Tweak you can easily autotune the car yourself as well. See my recent thread on the topic.
LTFT and closed loop boost control function in Haltech effectively does the same job, however I'm not going to recommend any software over a good tuner.
Originally Posted by DaleClark
At this point not many people have really run the Haltech on a sequential twin car. Also a lot of the tuners that do Haltech don't want to fool with sequential, they would rather you have a single turbo.
This seems like a broad generalization.
Originally Posted by DaleClark
The PFC 100% supports the twins out of the box, plug and play and the car immediately runs and works like it should. I would only do Haltech if you really want to get your hands dirty learning it, want all the extra features, etc. But mind you there's a great possibility you will have a LOT of troubleshooting and work ahead of you just to get to "car starts runs and drives and the twins work" which takes 15 minutes to do on a PFC.
It took me an hour, cause I had to swap the narrowband for a wideband. The calibration files for the AIT and MAP are preloaded in the basemap, but I'd verify regardless.
I only advocate for the Haltech cause these aren't cheap cars anymore. Time to quit recommending the budget option, cause last I checked, PFC has no safeguards.
Jack Cecil would be the guy to contact about the Haltech and sequentials. His build is almost identical to mine (Build thread) I also plan to go 2500 Elite long term but not until I go through the rest of car first for reliability. He is a well known and respected tuner and has the sequentials properly operating on that platform.
PFC can also be had for a fraction of the cost, and the OMP will fully function. With Haltech you only get to drive the OMP there is no self-diagnostic like there is with the OEM computer and the PFC. For the price of a 2500 you can get the PFC with the commander, Datalogit, a downpipe, and probably a decent intake as well.
I would only do Haltech if you really want to get your hands dirty learning it, want all the extra features, etc. But mind you there's a great possibility you will have a LOT of troubleshooting and work ahead of you just to get to "car starts runs and drives and the twins work" which takes 15 minutes to do on a PFC.
Dale
+1, and then in 6 months, Haltech will have new firmware, which puts you back at square one, and then about 9 months after that they will have a completely new ecu, which you need to switch to, and learn all over again.... ad Infinium....
The Haltech ran the twins on my car quite well for several years. I got a very well defined boost pattern and short of other issues with the car not related to the haltech or the twins themselves it wasn't overly complex to make work. However since not many people do it, there isn't much documentation out there on how to wire in the solenoids. The Haltech has a steep learning curve, but offers modern things like closed loop tuning, and live monitoring of short term and long term fuel trims, which is ultimately why the Haltech is right for me.
FC-Tweak largely made the tuning process easier than it was, which will get you much closer to a good running tune now since there are only a handful of people that will still dyno tune a power FC. You're still driving, logging, putting the log in FC tweak, then putting the updated map back on the power FC. The haltech does all of this with adaptive corrections where the car progressively drives better the more you drive it and corrects for environmental variables. There is also multiple levels of engine protection. I.e. I blew an oil cooler line on the skyway and the engine auto-shut down when the oil pressure dropped below 15psi. Did it save my engine over a powerFC? There is a low oil pressure light on the OEM dash so sure it would work as well.
The Haltech drives the solenoids differently than the PFC, if your solenoids are on their way out they may still work on a powerfc, but will likely have trouble with the haltech. I can't tell if this is because they use a weaker signal or over-drive them hotter than the powerFC using duty cycle, but either way I went through two sets of OEM solenoids with the haltech. When I removed the twins (I kept all the parts in case I want to go back someday) it was because the rear turbo was smoking.
If you really want to get fancy and like playing with the twins, I would swap all the solenoids to mac valves and move them out from under the intake manifold. If none of this is interesting to you and you just want to go drive the car and not consider any of the *****, get the powerFC, get a datalogit and FC-Tweak.
Get whichever is right for you and what you want out of the car.
