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Fantastic R2
Wonder if there is a downside for an FD driven only 50 miles in 9 years???
Totally depends on if it just sat or was started and/or moved somewhat frequently. Even a couple times a year matters for keeping rubber seals lubed and internal engine parts from sticking.
Issues: noted HL thing, rear bumper also a different shade and doesn't fit well, engine bay not as clean as I'd like, some bolts show removal history, jack marks on seam (possible autox car and I suspect it had some mods that were removed etc.. etc...)..........bottomline not as clean as I'd like but based on model and mileage it could set a new record.
No, it's by far the best way to check engine health. Any car should be compression tested before purchase, this isn't an FD only thing.
Molotovman is correct though. A hot start pretty much sums up whether the compression is good on a rotary engine.
People don't realize that needlessly asking for a compression test each and every time an FD comes up for sale just perpetuates the myth that a rotary engine can die at any given moment. IMO this myth has cost a few sellers $$.
People don't realize that needlessly asking for a compression test each and every time an FD comes up for sale just perpetuates the myth that a rotary engine can die at any given moment. IMO this myth has cost a few sellers $$.
BAT has a lot of armchair idiots who buy nothing and whose only goal is to find flaws in cars.
It's rare to see an FD listing where at least one of these ******** has not asked for a compression test.
I mean if you are selling a car, any car, at auction where the buyers cannot inspect and/or test drive, a compression test and other types of health check data will help the sale (if positive results). This goes for piston cars, not just rotaries.
There is such an aura of bullshit around rotary compression numbers that it is going to be hard to win even if you do post the results of a compression test. Unless the numbers are extremely high, the peanut gallery is going to claim that the engine is heading towards oblivion.
Even though it is good practice to post them, I can see why people don't.
I mean if you are selling a car, any car, at auction where the buyers cannot inspect and/or test drive, a compression test and other types of health check data will help the sale (if positive results). This goes for piston cars, not just rotaries.
And yet I've only seen it being asked when it comes to rotaries. No matter the mileage.
Seriously, check out older Mercedes auctions. Those dudes understand what they are buying and have real world expectations from cars that are 30+ years old.
BAT has a lot of armchair idiots who buy nothing and whose only goal is to find flaws in cars.
I could never sell an FD on BAT. I don't have the patience to indulge morons who have stupid questions or requests and yet they have no plans on bidding.
For this current listing, one guy asked "for the California buyers" if the smog equipment was still intact. My immediate thought was "well wtf do you think? The car has 7k miles and everything under the hood is stock" but yeah ask away ..
Took my brand new compression tester (RotaryCompressionTester.com) with me to the shop this week. .
Based on those results, what should my engine-life management strategy be for the next 40,000 km?
6.5 years and 40,000 km after rebuild.
Enjoy it. As long as front and rear are similar you're good to go. Just like a piston engine, you are looking for one or more cylinders / faces with a large difference, the actual numbers are less important that the % difference between the highest and lowest compression event.
I could never sell an FD on BAT. I don't have the patience to indulge morons who have stupid questions or requests and yet they have no plans on bidding.
For this current listing, one guy asked "for the California buyers" if the smog equipment was still intact. My immediate thought was "well wtf do you think? The car has 7k miles and everything under the hood is stock" but yeah ask away ..
I feel the same way, I'm just waiting patiently before engaging some member of the idiot party in an argument.
Compression numbers are BS, especially for a stock power level car. The dang thing starts well hot or it doesn't, if it doesn't hot start, a cold start is going to be problematic too! A good hot start and solid vacuum are all that you need to be informed to buy- it's a rotary and it will eventually fail, if it's modified that timeline will be advanced. At this point an engine rebuild is the cheap part of ownership, it's cheaper than paint, a black interior, or a single turbo kit + EMS, cooling, & supporting fuel.
How many guys have lost money on cars that were just fine because they had warm compression test in the 90's? It's rhetorical because we don't track it but it's something we see regularly on the auction sites. As long as you keep perpetuating the myths you're holding down values.
