BIG difference and the correct mileage should absolutely be in the summary info. It's black vs red, it's base vs touring, two oil coolers etc...

Should be an interesting comparison. I expect it will beat out the LHD, but LHD is a MAJOR advantage. I guess we'll find out how big that advantage is at this time.

Healthy compression is a plus for sure vs the LHD.

Just went through the pictures and it's just presented well and not that clean.

 

I just want that speedo.

 

Get a Canadian speedo. It goes to 280 km.

 

red car is missing the $28 battery box cover, so instant fail. the tan interior looks terrible
paint looks nice, but they didn't do the rocker pinch weld in black like they should have

the black one is really nice, but like the steering wheel is on the wrong side....

 

BAT should have a loaner battery cover to pass inspections.

At track day it was pointed out to me that my loose battery cover was a risk factor.

So now it is a safety issue.

.

 

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...da-rx-7-jdm-3/

Surprised at the lack of interest. Thought it could have gone much higher. Likely sold at a discount to the cost to bring one in from Japan these days.

 

I expected high 30's honestly but to not even have another bid throughout the week was a surprise to me. Car is pretty clean too. Guess timing plays a bit of a part as well because some similar ones went for a bit more.

 

Looks like a very desirable car, whether RHD or LHD. Someone got lucky, imo.

Surprised seller did not have a higher reserve.

Might pay for some to test drive an RHD and perhaps be more ready for the next bargain..

Canadian's looking to pull a car out of Japan, might benefit to look at these landed ones in the US.

 

Another Spirit R just showed up at the local Tim's. So the money is out there for the right car.



Car is still sporting a recent Japan inspection sticker.

 

@Redbul I think I saw you post on BAT that you have had clusters refurbished. Would you mind passing that info?

Also that red FD currently on BAT ain't looking too hot. I estimate $36k final price

 

Red car may turn out to be a good deal, if a buyer has a line on a spare motor.

Michael Gagne is the fixer. I suspect if you do a thread search he will pop up.

He is more active on Facebook, I think.

He shut down for a while, but has been back to taking orders recently it seems.

I have maybe eight clusters he has fixed. left I have not got round to actively selling.

But sending your cluster to him is likely the best alternative.

Make sure you insure you USPS package and state the proper value.

Someone's cluster got lost in the mail, but they only put a small value on it.

They eventually found it 6 months later.

 

BTW, someone is referencing 85 psi as the acceptable lower limit. But I still contend that is a printing error. 100 psi is used in other manuals.

I hope the car was at sea-level for the test. I think you have to adjust down another 15 psi if at 1200 feet.

Saving grace may be that the faces all seem to be closely matched.

What sort of driving would push that motor over the "apex".

 

Thanks 👍

 

IIRC correctly the early manuals printed the lower compression and later ones uprated. Really, if it starts and the faces are even: you're in good shape.

Low rpm compression is really just for starting. High rpm compression will be much closer to ideal, unless there is a catastrophic issue.

 

What is the typical cause of compression figures weakening over time?

For instance if the all faces seem to have weakened at the same rate?

Do the apex seals wear down? The (apex seal) springs weaken?.

Or a combination of factors, that you are lucky if those factors effect things at the same rate?

 

I was under the impression that compression weakening over time is more of a side seal spring type of issue. Springs under the apex seals seem more robust, but I guess they could weaken over time too.

 

You must be dead set on trying to tank valuations and peoples auctions.

I truly hope you and other people can move past the “must post compression numbers” nonsense. The idea that a spare engine is necessary because one number was below 88 is just silly.

 

It seems to be a random sampling of people bringing up the compression issue on BAT.

So it does not seem to be an isolated concern of a small number of people.

Some of the counter arguments help, and others, while perhaps good intentioned, are just as counterproductive.

Each one of these auctions that underperform, for whatever reason, hurts us all.

Where do insurance providers turn for their market comparables these days?.

The red car got sideswiped, but I thought the resulting comments/testimonials generally would give some buyers some assurance.

In the end the car sold for about $10-12,000 below trend.

So the issues seem to have been more than just the estimated cost of a motor replacement..

It also may be useful to have more data on owners final costs of engine replacement (including all the inevitable ancillary work that arises).

Up here it is running closer to US$15,000, if you can find a shop willing to do the work at all.

 

The manuals you're speaking of do not give a range, they literally just say '100 psi' and the next bullet point is a differential pressure of 21 psi. Go back 1 generation with the same compression ratio, and (depending on when engines were built) the same seals you'll see 85 psi and again a differential pressure of 21 psi.

This smacks of CYA by Mazda USA in being able to say "Oh, your replace engine light is on, see how its less than 100 psi?" rather than giving a reasonable range. Hence the rule of thumb that 85-100 is completely reasonable.

 

It is/was a fairly significant change. I wonder if there ever was a service bulletin explaining the change.

The 100 psi first appears in relation to the JDM FSM WM4002 dated 1991-11,

Was the USDM FSM a printing error.

In other manuals, such as the parts catalogues, diagram's were obviously carried over from FC publications.

Was the 85 psi in the USDM carried over from the FC USDM FSM?

Was 85 psi the accepted norm for the FC?

 

The 1985-9 WM029 JDM FC Engine manual gives the lower limit at 6.0 ("85") at 250 rpm with the rated capacity in the engine spec page as 9.0 @ 280. Illustrations used seem to show a Turbo 2 motor. What was the rated boost for a Turbo II motor?

The Japanese text seems to indicate a range, in that anything below "6.0 @ 250" would signal an "oba houru".

So the acceptable range could be inferred to be 6.0 or better for the FC.

Given the significant increase in expected horsepower and boost for the FD, would an increase in the compression range floor to 7.0, be a surprise?

 

https://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/3rd_...-%20Engine.pdf


https://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/3rd_.../(C)engine.pdf

 

I'm very confused what point you're trying to make at this stage.

You're bringing up things like boost and expected horsepower when into a conversation that doesn't have much to do with either when speaking of a test done at atmospheric conditions using essentially identical (with regards to what this is testing) components. Its the same epitrochoid, the same 'stroke, and the same static compression ratio.

 

I am just trying to understand why Mazda would increase the lower compression level to 100 from 85. I am thinking that getting 100 more HP out of the same set up you describe above would put much more stress on the components. What effect does adding more boost have on the seals, etc.?

It seems that the FC FSM had the lower limit at 85 since 1985, with no change in the updated FC FSM in 1989. So when the FD USDM FSM came out in late 1991 or early 1992, people may have thought the 85 was perfectly normal. By the time the 1994 USDM FSM came out the compression section (c-9) had been updated to match the JDM manuals.

The problem is that to this day people may be relying on the 1993 USDM FSM.

 

See the tail end of my first post on the matter.