How to value your FD
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,001
Likes: 379
From: Aurora, Ontario, Canada
Saw that too. I don't buy it. I want to like that car, it seems the rest of you do, but not sure I could trust the seller 100%. Can't help but notice the backgrounds of the pics, doesn't look like he'd be a meticulous car enthusiast like the rest of us let alone a rotary enthusiast, how long ago did he get it from his relative, has he touched it at all since then, is it even garaged in the meantime? Not putting the guy down for trying to make some money on a nice car, I just always look at what's going on in the background of pics to garner any info I can about the seller.
The Ancient
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,629
Likes: 244
From: Pennsylvania
Reading the more recent comments, I come to this...
Here we have a 20,000 mile base car with no damage and a good looking interior and engine compartment. No physical signs of damage or abuse. Shiny little low mile car. And we worry that compression readings look too high or that low miles may mean unknown problems? We all know that hoses need t be replaced. Next? If this were a high mileage car, would we then be saying, "its time for a rebuild"? Maybe we should come up with what we think the "best" used FD would be? Perfect body, paint, and interior. 50-70,000 miles so its been used and maintained and less brittle this and that. Compression test done by Jesus the mechanic and showing 118 on both rotors printed out and verified by readings done at 2 shops.
Here we have a 20,000 mile base car with no damage and a good looking interior and engine compartment. No physical signs of damage or abuse. Shiny little low mile car. And we worry that compression readings look too high or that low miles may mean unknown problems? We all know that hoses need t be replaced. Next? If this were a high mileage car, would we then be saying, "its time for a rebuild"? Maybe we should come up with what we think the "best" used FD would be? Perfect body, paint, and interior. 50-70,000 miles so its been used and maintained and less brittle this and that. Compression test done by Jesus the mechanic and showing 118 on both rotors printed out and verified by readings done at 2 shops.
Reading the more recent comments, I come to this...
Here we have a 20,000 mile base car with no damage and a good looking interior and engine compartment. No physical signs of damage or abuse. Shiny little low mile car. And we worry that compression readings look too high or that low miles may mean unknown problems? We all know that hoses need t be replaced. Next? If this were a high mileage car, would we then be saying, "its time for a rebuild"? Maybe we should come up with what we think the "best" used FD would be? Perfect body, paint, and interior. 50-70,000 miles so its been used and maintained and less brittle this and that. Compression test done by Jesus the mechanic and showing 118 on both rotors printed out and verified by readings done at 2 shops.
Here we have a 20,000 mile base car with no damage and a good looking interior and engine compartment. No physical signs of damage or abuse. Shiny little low mile car. And we worry that compression readings look too high or that low miles may mean unknown problems? We all know that hoses need t be replaced. Next? If this were a high mileage car, would we then be saying, "its time for a rebuild"? Maybe we should come up with what we think the "best" used FD would be? Perfect body, paint, and interior. 50-70,000 miles so its been used and maintained and less brittle this and that. Compression test done by Jesus the mechanic and showing 118 on both rotors printed out and verified by readings done at 2 shops.
However, some of us are a bit suspicious when seller claims compression 138/135/131 ? .....makes one wonder about other things not shown in pics. Hopefully for the new owner the seller was just not FD knowledgeable.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Reading the more recent comments, I come to this...
Here we have a 20,000 mile base car with no damage and a good looking interior and engine compartment. No physical signs of damage or abuse. Shiny little low mile car. And we worry that compression readings look too high or that low miles may mean unknown problems? We all know that hoses need t be replaced. Next? If this were a high mileage car, would we then be saying, "its time for a rebuild"? Maybe we should come up with what we think the "best" used FD would be? Perfect body, paint, and interior. 50-70,000 miles so its been used and maintained and less brittle this and that. Compression test done by Jesus the mechanic and showing 118 on both rotors printed out and verified by readings done at 2 shops.
Here we have a 20,000 mile base car with no damage and a good looking interior and engine compartment. No physical signs of damage or abuse. Shiny little low mile car. And we worry that compression readings look too high or that low miles may mean unknown problems? We all know that hoses need t be replaced. Next? If this were a high mileage car, would we then be saying, "its time for a rebuild"? Maybe we should come up with what we think the "best" used FD would be? Perfect body, paint, and interior. 50-70,000 miles so its been used and maintained and less brittle this and that. Compression test done by Jesus the mechanic and showing 118 on both rotors printed out and verified by readings done at 2 shops.
The only thing I'd be worried about is the gas tank/fuel system if not maintained that can be a serious disaster. Pop out the fuel tank cover and take a look, if clean you are good to go. That said I'd NEVER buy an FD listed on BAT at this point without personally inspecting it head to toe. These low mileage cars are selling for stupid money at this point and it would be worth a plane to trip to check out.
My current DD was purchased 4 years ago with 24k miles and deep storage or driven very little. I've put over 12k miles on it and my maintenance has included, oil, coolant, trans and diff gear oil change. Everything still works perfectly. Nothing better than a stock FD, it's quiet, the AC works, the power band is so fun, zero lag and the secondary kick always feels great. The only thing I can't deal with is the high soft/leaning suspension. My car has PFS springs and sways which are actually about all you need for the street. Oh and unlike some others I can't stand the stock ECU because invariably you'll get hesitation and the fuel mileage sucks but the PFC is the perfect option it also eliminates the engine light for the EGR which you'll get right away with the 94 cars. The 95s eliminated it which is just one more reason the 95 is the best possible FD. As I've said over and over what you really don't want is a 93 FD there are just way too many advantages to owning a 94/95, the interior alone makes it a no brainer. I saw some dude arguing that 93s cost more on BAT, complete idiot using auction #s, they mean zip.
Last edited by Fritz Flynn; Aug 4, 2021 at 10:44 AM.
More words of wisdom from Fritz...particularly:
"That said I'd NEVER buy an FD listed on BAT at this point without personally inspecting it head to toe. These low mileage cars are selling for stupid money at this point and it would be worth a plane to trip to check out.'
"That said I'd NEVER buy an FD listed on BAT at this point without personally inspecting it head to toe. These low mileage cars are selling for stupid money at this point and it would be worth a plane to trip to check out.'
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,001
Likes: 379
From: Aurora, Ontario, Canada
Probably tested cold so deduct around 15 psi and then it's been seen before but definitely a great number.
This is the perfect FD to buy, low mileage, well stored and bone stock. In my experience of owning 10 plus very low mileage FDs there is no better FD to own. Sure you can still have a few problems but again if garaged/stored properly it's the best possible FD to buy.
The only thing I'd be worried about is the gas tank/fuel system if not maintained that can be a serious disaster. Pop out the fuel tank cover and take a look, if clean you are good to go. That said I'd NEVER buy an FD listed on BAT at this point without personally inspecting it head to toe. These low mileage cars are selling for stupid money at this point and it would be worth a plane to trip to check out.
My current DD was purchased 4 years ago with 24k miles and deep storage or driven very little. I've put over 12k miles on it and my maintenance has included, oil, coolant, trans and diff gear oil change. Everything still works perfectly. Nothing better than a stock FD, it's quiet, the AC works, the power band is so fun, zero lag and the secondary kick always feels great. The only thing I can't deal with is the high soft/leaning suspension. My car has PFS springs and sways which are actually about all you need for the street. Oh and unlike some others I can't stand the stock ECU because invariably you'll get hesitation and the fuel mileage sucks but the PFC is the perfect option it also eliminates the engine light for the EGR which you'll get right away with the 94 cars. The 95s eliminated it which is just one more reason the 95 is the best possible FD. As I've said over and over what you really don't want is a 93 FD there are just way too many advantages to owning a 94/95, the interior alone makes it a no brainer. I saw some dude arguing that 93s cost more on BAT, complete idiot using auction #s, they mean zip.
This is the perfect FD to buy, low mileage, well stored and bone stock. In my experience of owning 10 plus very low mileage FDs there is no better FD to own. Sure you can still have a few problems but again if garaged/stored properly it's the best possible FD to buy.
The only thing I'd be worried about is the gas tank/fuel system if not maintained that can be a serious disaster. Pop out the fuel tank cover and take a look, if clean you are good to go. That said I'd NEVER buy an FD listed on BAT at this point without personally inspecting it head to toe. These low mileage cars are selling for stupid money at this point and it would be worth a plane to trip to check out.
My current DD was purchased 4 years ago with 24k miles and deep storage or driven very little. I've put over 12k miles on it and my maintenance has included, oil, coolant, trans and diff gear oil change. Everything still works perfectly. Nothing better than a stock FD, it's quiet, the AC works, the power band is so fun, zero lag and the secondary kick always feels great. The only thing I can't deal with is the high soft/leaning suspension. My car has PFS springs and sways which are actually about all you need for the street. Oh and unlike some others I can't stand the stock ECU because invariably you'll get hesitation and the fuel mileage sucks but the PFC is the perfect option it also eliminates the engine light for the EGR which you'll get right away with the 94 cars. The 95s eliminated it which is just one more reason the 95 is the best possible FD. As I've said over and over what you really don't want is a 93 FD there are just way too many advantages to owning a 94/95, the interior alone makes it a no brainer. I saw some dude arguing that 93s cost more on BAT, complete idiot using auction #s, they mean zip.
it’s been awhile since I’ve had to deal with stock power or the stock suspension. I find it way too soft in stock form, but as you said, a few minor bolt ons and you’ll be golden. Don’t necessarily have to go bananas but with some small tidbits, you can have a serious daily driver.
I wouldn’t want to daily the FD though. Way too many things can go wrong with daily commuters. I was very grateful I survived daily driver for the first 2yrs. Put on way too many km’s and had to get the front bumper repainted. She’s much happier as a weekend/nice weather vehicle.
Reading the more recent comments, I come to this...
Here we have a 20,000 mile base car with no damage and a good looking interior and engine compartment. No physical signs of damage or abuse. Shiny little low mile car. And we worry that compression readings look too high or that low miles may mean unknown problems? We all know that hoses need t be replaced. Next? If this were a high mileage car, would we then be saying, "its time for a rebuild"? Maybe we should come up with what we think the "best" used FD would be? Perfect body, paint, and interior. 50-70,000 miles so its been used and maintained and less brittle this and that. Compression test done by Jesus the mechanic and showing 118 on both rotors printed out and verified by readings done at 2 shops.
Here we have a 20,000 mile base car with no damage and a good looking interior and engine compartment. No physical signs of damage or abuse. Shiny little low mile car. And we worry that compression readings look too high or that low miles may mean unknown problems? We all know that hoses need t be replaced. Next? If this were a high mileage car, would we then be saying, "its time for a rebuild"? Maybe we should come up with what we think the "best" used FD would be? Perfect body, paint, and interior. 50-70,000 miles so its been used and maintained and less brittle this and that. Compression test done by Jesus the mechanic and showing 118 on both rotors printed out and verified by readings done at 2 shops.
No kidding... I don't know if the need to incessantly search for things to pick apart is inherently an RX-7 thing or if it also happens (to this degree) with other types of cars.
So its the heat cycles that turn a rats nest crispy?
If left to stand still the original plastics and rubbers used in the solenoids, vacuum hoses and harnesses will retain sufficient elasticizer (flexible) integrety?
Or do storage conditions have to be perfect, whatever "perfect" might mean?
If left to stand still the original plastics and rubbers used in the solenoids, vacuum hoses and harnesses will retain sufficient elasticizer (flexible) integrety?
Or do storage conditions have to be perfect, whatever "perfect" might mean?
Is the interior quality really that bad with the '93 vs the later years? I'm not talking about the peeling surface--that's an easy fix--more the rattles and less solid feeling I have seen spoken about a few times.
I will likely end up with a '93 since condition is the priority and they are much more common, just wondering what possible improvements that could be made to have the best of both worlds.
Most of the small changes Mazda made throughout production were mechanical improvements and can easily be switched over or have already been updated with aftermarket parts. Having a car that feels like a rattle trap vs one that is much more solid though because all the interior plastics are slightly different is a more significant difference though, and one that is more difficult to rectify.
I will likely end up with a '93 since condition is the priority and they are much more common, just wondering what possible improvements that could be made to have the best of both worlds.
Most of the small changes Mazda made throughout production were mechanical improvements and can easily be switched over or have already been updated with aftermarket parts. Having a car that feels like a rattle trap vs one that is much more solid though because all the interior plastics are slightly different is a more significant difference though, and one that is more difficult to rectify.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Its true, the revisions they’ve made in the 94/95 year is worth it’s weight in gold. So many issues the 92/93’s had, don’t afflict the 94+’s. A lot more enjoyable to drive.
it’s been awhile since I’ve had to deal with stock power or the stock suspension. I find it way too soft in stock form, but as you said, a few minor bolt ons and you’ll be golden. Don’t necessarily have to go bananas but with some small tidbits, you can have a serious daily driver.
I wouldn’t want to daily the FD though. Way too many things can go wrong with daily commuters. I was very grateful I survived daily driver for the first 2yrs. Put on way too many km’s and had to get the front bumper repainted. She’s much happier as a weekend/nice weather vehicle.
it’s been awhile since I’ve had to deal with stock power or the stock suspension. I find it way too soft in stock form, but as you said, a few minor bolt ons and you’ll be golden. Don’t necessarily have to go bananas but with some small tidbits, you can have a serious daily driver.
I wouldn’t want to daily the FD though. Way too many things can go wrong with daily commuters. I was very grateful I survived daily driver for the first 2yrs. Put on way too many km’s and had to get the front bumper repainted. She’s much happier as a weekend/nice weather vehicle.
I'm in charlottesville VA (smallish college town) so the commute is pretty fun and often times I'll take some back roads. I usually don't drive in the rain or much in the winter unless Morgen needs the truck.
I'm still in love with this car though so I always look forward to any amount of driving in it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
So its the heat cycles that turn a rats nest crispy?
If left to stand still the original plastics and rubbers used in the solenoids, vacuum hoses and harnesses will retain sufficient elasticizer (flexible) integrety?
Or do storage conditions have to be perfect, whatever "perfect" might mean?
If left to stand still the original plastics and rubbers used in the solenoids, vacuum hoses and harnesses will retain sufficient elasticizer (flexible) integrety?
Or do storage conditions have to be perfect, whatever "perfect" might mean?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Is the interior quality really that bad with the '93 vs the later years? I'm not talking about the peeling surface--that's an easy fix--more the rattles and less solid feeling I have seen spoken about a few times.
I will likely end up with a '93 since condition is the priority and they are much more common, just wondering what possible improvements that could be made to have the best of both worlds.
Most of the small changes Mazda made throughout production were mechanical improvements and can easily be switched over or have already been updated with aftermarket parts. Having a car that feels like a rattle trap vs one that is much more solid though because all the interior plastics are slightly different is a more significant difference though, and one that is more difficult to rectify.
I will likely end up with a '93 since condition is the priority and they are much more common, just wondering what possible improvements that could be made to have the best of both worlds.
Most of the small changes Mazda made throughout production were mechanical improvements and can easily be switched over or have already been updated with aftermarket parts. Having a car that feels like a rattle trap vs one that is much more solid though because all the interior plastics are slightly different is a more significant difference though, and one that is more difficult to rectify.
quick off the top of my head:
much, much better interior panels
improved baffles in gas tank
improved rear sub frame to help reduce wheel hop
95s no egr, better AC, better ABS
stronger wheels (93s known to crack)
better dash and glove box
passenger airbag
center console has more support (plastic bracket things)
rear sway not as stiff which is not good IMO
shocks on R2s vs R1s again not as stiff or I don't like
better overall build quality IMO
etc..etc..
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 274
Likes: 141
From: Pa USA
Is the interior quality really that bad with the '93 vs the later years? I'm not talking about the peeling surface--that's an easy fix--more the rattles and less solid feeling I have seen spoken about a few times.
I will likely end up with a '93 since condition is the priority and they are much more common, just wondering what possible improvements that could be made to have the best of both worlds.
Most of the small changes Mazda made throughout production were mechanical improvements and can easily be switched over or have already been updated with aftermarket parts. Having a car that feels like a rattle trap vs one that is much more solid though because all the interior plastics are slightly different is a more significant difference though, and one that is more difficult to rectify.
I will likely end up with a '93 since condition is the priority and they are much more common, just wondering what possible improvements that could be made to have the best of both worlds.
Most of the small changes Mazda made throughout production were mechanical improvements and can easily be switched over or have already been updated with aftermarket parts. Having a car that feels like a rattle trap vs one that is much more solid though because all the interior plastics are slightly different is a more significant difference though, and one that is more difficult to rectify.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,001
Likes: 379
From: Aurora, Ontario, Canada
Yeah, there are so many more '93's out there that it's hard to avoid a '93 if you're looking for the best quality. Here's the thing about BaT - if the 94 up for auction now was a 93, it would probably go for the same dollars because I don't think most buyers on BaT know the difference between the years. So if you're going to spend big dollars the 94/5's are the way to go. If I wasn't wedded to my 93 for the past 28 years I'd be seriously interested in that 94, but it's going to be expensive
im just waiting for the lottery to come in so I can possibly obtain an F50. Otherwise, I wouldn’t want to get another sports car at the moment. I have a ton of fun with the FD as it is. If I’m going to be spending upwards of 100g’s for a vehicle, I’m going to go all out and get the ones I always wanted that were truly unobtainable or limited..
Get a big roll of 1/2" by 1/16" foam tape, several yards of silencing ribbon, some 1" x 1/8" adhesive pipe insulation foam (black) take off the door cards and go to town The metal clips that hang the door card lose their foam insulation and rattle badly. Priority on those. When removing the door cards remember the hidden bolt behind the passenger window switch and lower down in the door card. If something seems stuck don't force it. Search out why it is stuck. Make sure all the fastners are removed (including the little screws in the door cups. Forcing your fingers into the base of the door card, pull the door card out form the frame about 1/2" to release the plugs. Lift the card straight up to release the metal hangers (there are plastic pins in those hangers, don't know how to save those).
If you have access to a card that has been removed, study it to see the release points.
My 1992 JDM Type X had extra thick padding everywhere. Not sure if the US Touring models had the same. That padding certainly kept the road noise down.
If you have access to a card that has been removed, study it to see the release points.
My 1992 JDM Type X had extra thick padding everywhere. Not sure if the US Touring models had the same. That padding certainly kept the road noise down.
Last edited by Redbul; Aug 4, 2021 at 03:32 PM.
Fd caliper
Sorry about the round about way of contacting you fritz I'm just trying to see if you're in the parts game still. My brother Matt aka James pond he has done a few transactions with you through the years and told me you may be able to get me a driver's rear caliper for my fd. I tried messaging you but apparently I'm not aloud to.do that yet.
The Ancient
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,629
Likes: 244
From: Pennsylvania
I hadn't noticed this site before and found it interesting. Probably been posted here somewhere, but I hadn't seen it. Nice summary of prices for FD's by year.
https://www.classic.com/m/mazda/rx-7/3rd-gen/year-1993/
https://www.classic.com/m/mazda/rx-7/3rd-gen/year-1993/
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
I hadn't noticed this site before and found it interesting. Probably been posted here somewhere, but I hadn't seen it. Nice summary of prices for FD's by year.
https://www.classic.com/m/mazda/rx-7/3rd-gen/year-1993/
https://www.classic.com/m/mazda/rx-7/3rd-gen/year-1993/
It's worthless info there is no way to track what's going on in the FD world because it's happening too fast and there aren't enough equal cars.
TRUST this: 94 and 95s are worth at least 5k more and I'd say 10k if the car has under 20k miles and the gap will only widen.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Sorry about the round about way of contacting you fritz I'm just trying to see if you're in the parts game still. My brother Matt aka James pond he has done a few transactions with you through the years and told me you may be able to get me a driver's rear caliper for my fd. I tried messaging you but apparently I'm not aloud to.do that yet.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
Yeah, there are so many more '93's out there that it's hard to avoid a '93 if you're looking for the best quality. Here's the thing about BaT - if the 94 up for auction now was a 93, it would probably go for the same dollars because I don't think most buyers on BaT know the difference between the years. So if you're going to spend big dollars the 94/5's are the way to go. If I wasn't wedded to my 93 for the past 28 years I'd be seriously interested in that 94, but it's going to be expensive
A VR 93 base sold for 56k in July and I suspect this one will sell for 60k plus. The 93 had 16k miles if this one had 16k miles I'd say 65k plus.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1995-mazda-rx-7-14/
Imagine if the car above which sold for 57k in May had 16k miles on it It may have sold for over 70k or we'd have a new record holder. I will be surprised if this 94 VR base sells for over 70k but it could actually happen because of the model, year and condition. It's got the trifecta going on.
Imagine if the car above which sold for 57k in May had 16k miles on it
It may have sold for over 70k or we'd have a new record holder. I will be surprised if this 94 VR base sells for over 70k but it could actually happen because of the model, year and condition. It's got the trifecta going on.