Using fogging oil with an AFM
#1
Yes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Using fogging oil with an AFM
Should I be worried?
I got a 1987 GXL last summer. It ran great. By November it was getting cold so I got ready to store it for the winter in my garage. I read afew things about storing cars...clean and wax it, vacuum it out, pressurize the tires, block the wheels, don't set the e-brake, top up the gas tank and use stablizer, flush brake fluid and coolant. I think I was pretty thorough. I even fogged the intake...but now I'm scared.
In the dead of winter, with my car stored, I'm dreaming of next spring and some mods I might do. My car is completely stock except for rims. I was doing research on a CAI, when I read a thread about a guy worried about getting K&N oil on his AFM. I thought, that's nothing, I sprayed half a can of fogging oil up my intake through my AFM until it stalled. That AFM must be dripping in oil. But that is what the winterizing article said to do.
Now I'm realizing that the guys that spray fogging oil up the intake probably don't have an AFM; they have something else.
So now what? I want to un-storage my car and test it out...and nurse it back to health, if possible. I don't want to wait till spring...but I'm gonna havta.
What do you think? Was fogging the AFM bad? Is it fried? How will my NA run with a screwed AFM? Can I clean it and recover? Should I start shopping for a new AFM now without testing it? Should I skip the AFM and get a Standalone (standalone...what's that been?) What does a new standalone cost? What does a new AFM cost?
Help ease my pain...
I got a 1987 GXL last summer. It ran great. By November it was getting cold so I got ready to store it for the winter in my garage. I read afew things about storing cars...clean and wax it, vacuum it out, pressurize the tires, block the wheels, don't set the e-brake, top up the gas tank and use stablizer, flush brake fluid and coolant. I think I was pretty thorough. I even fogged the intake...but now I'm scared.
In the dead of winter, with my car stored, I'm dreaming of next spring and some mods I might do. My car is completely stock except for rims. I was doing research on a CAI, when I read a thread about a guy worried about getting K&N oil on his AFM. I thought, that's nothing, I sprayed half a can of fogging oil up my intake through my AFM until it stalled. That AFM must be dripping in oil. But that is what the winterizing article said to do.
Now I'm realizing that the guys that spray fogging oil up the intake probably don't have an AFM; they have something else.
So now what? I want to un-storage my car and test it out...and nurse it back to health, if possible. I don't want to wait till spring...but I'm gonna havta.
What do you think? Was fogging the AFM bad? Is it fried? How will my NA run with a screwed AFM? Can I clean it and recover? Should I start shopping for a new AFM now without testing it? Should I skip the AFM and get a Standalone (standalone...what's that been?) What does a new standalone cost? What does a new AFM cost?
Help ease my pain...
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Comstock Park, MI 49321
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
first off I would not have fogged it there is no need. and what he is worried about is K&N oil on his MAF because they have a hot wire on them and if he gets oil on it it will burn out the hot wire... nothing u have to worry about
Dave
Dave
#3
Yes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So K&N oil will burn out the hot wire in a AFM, but fogging oil won't?
Should I attempt to clean the oil off the hot wire before I initially start it in the spring?
Can I use brake cleaner inside the AFM to rinse off the oil or is that a no no, too?
Thanks
Should I attempt to clean the oil off the hot wire before I initially start it in the spring?
Can I use brake cleaner inside the AFM to rinse off the oil or is that a no no, too?
Thanks
#5
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally Posted by suijen2
So K&N oil will burn out the hot wire in a AFM, but fogging oil won't?
All of this is irrelevant since FC's don't have hot-wire AFM's (aka MAF sensor).
Trending Topics
#8
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
Originally Posted by SpooledupRacing
first off I would not have fogged it there is no need. and what he is worried about is K&N oil on his MAF because they have a hot wire on them and if he gets oil on it it will burn out the hot wire... nothing u have to worry about
Dave
Dave
As for the AFM, it's fine. Oil only causes issues with hotwire AFMs as already mentioned.
#9
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Comstock Park, MI 49321
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ah ok well there goes something rotary I never knew.. this would be no need in a piston engine car not saying it would hurt just saying non need I would guess...
#10
tom port.. AKA streetport
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ludlow, pa
Posts: 4,659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
If you are storing the car for more then a month or so, fogging oil is ABSOLUTELY necessary to prevent rusting the internal parts. Unless you get a good thick oil coating over the irons, they will form a wonderful layer of rust that gets scrapped off next time the engine is turned over. Also, this is a prime cause of sticking seals. Fogging oil prevents this by coating everything and sticking to all metal surfaces.
As for the AFM, it's fine. Oil only causes issues with hotwire AFMs as already mentioned.
As for the AFM, it's fine. Oil only causes issues with hotwire AFMs as already mentioned.
yikes!!
rust== not good!
it only takes a month before it starts rusting?
#11
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
All the metal internal to the engine is bare. With temperature changes, condensation forms on all metal surfaces. While there is a thin oil film over everything, there are gaps in the film and crankcase oil doesn't really cling to vertical surfaces for long periods of time (especially with a little fuel dilution in there).
Edit...Most surfaces are coated (irons are nitrated, housings are chrome, rotors are plated, etc.) but rust still forms.
Edit...Most surfaces are coated (irons are nitrated, housings are chrome, rotors are plated, etc.) but rust still forms.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
troym55
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
23
05-25-16 12:42 PM
tiger18
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
9
09-03-15 08:27 PM